Visiting Rethymno Fortezza
The largest Venetian fortress in Crete, over 500 years of history and sublime views along the north Crete coast. Visiting Rethymno Fortezza is well worth it, especially if you’re spending more than a day in Crete’s third city.
Along with the Old Town and the city’s vast, long beach, the Fortezza is one of the main things to see in Rethymno. In this guide to the fortress I’ll show you what there is to see, and give you an overview of its history. I’ll also cover the practicalities of visiting the Fortezza, including opening times and ticket prices, and suggest other things to do in Rethymno.
I hope you find the guide useful. Enjoy.
Where To Stay In Rethymno
Aquila Porto Rethymno – seafront 5-star next to the best section of the city beach, and a 10-minute walk from the Old Town and Fortezza
Palazzino di Corina – housed in a 500-year-old Venetian palazzo in the Old Town, close to both the Fortezza and Harbour
Fortezza Hotel – great Old Town option just down the hill from the Fortezza entrance
Leo Hotel – one of the best hotels in Rethymno Old Town, in a Venetian townhouse built in the 1450s, and just a few steps from the historic harbour
Poseidon Hotel – one of the best budget hotels in Rethymno, right on the seafront and close to the Old Twon and Fortezza
Rethymno Fortezza History
The present Fortezza was begun in 1573 by the island’s Venetian occupiers, and completed in 1580. but the hilltop site was used in ancient times, possibly as the site of Rhithymna’s acropolis, so would have been partly fortified over 2,000 years ago.
A fortress was built on the eastern part of the hilltop site by the Byzantine rulers, and this stood between the 10th and 13thcenturies. Prior to the construction of the Venetian fort, it was known as the paleokastro, or old castle.
The Venetians built some fortifications on the castle hill in 1540, but their defences were inadequate, and overwhelmed by an Ottoman attack the following year.
The new Fortezza was intended to house the entire city population, but there was insufficient space available for this. It was eventually decided to allow the population inside in the event of an attack.
Although it was one of the largest castles in Crete, Rethymno Fortezza was not exactly defensive military state-of-the-art. The walls of the Fortezza were built surprisingly low, and there’s little in the way of outer defences including a ditch or earthworks. The island fortress of Spinalonga, off the eastern coast of the island, was far better conceived, planned and built, and a much more effective redoubt against attackers.
Rethymno came under Ottoman attack in September 1646, and within seven weeks, with the city’s population sheltered in the Fortezza, surrender terms were negotiated with the Turks.
The Ottoman occupiers were to remain in control of Crete for the next 300 years, and they took over the existing Fortezza.
Under the Ottomans, many houses and other buildings – including the notable Neratze Mosque – were added in the Old Town area below the Castle. But some houses were also built within the citadel. These homes, and those that preceded them, were demolished after the end of the Second World War, as the whole of the city was modernised, with residents moving to the city’s new suburbs.
Visiting Rethymno Fortezza – What To See
The Fortezza of Rethymno is impressive from outside, and it’s worth doing the short (15-minute) circuit of the walls, the southern and eastern parts of which border the streets of Rethymno Old Town. The northern and western walls and bastions overlook the sea, with just a road between them and the shoreline.
Before I go into the details of what you see inside Rethymno Fortezza, much of the large interior of the fortress is surprisingly empty. This is also true of other castles around Crete, like those of Gramvousa and Paleochora, but there’s considerably more to see in Rethymno Fortezza than either of these abandoned outposts on the west Crete coast.
The first thing that you see as you enter the Fortezza is the Armoury building on your left, and some gun emplacements overlooking the Old Town to the south. If you happen to be there in the middle of the day, take an early break in the shade – there’s very little of it elsewhere in the Fortezza.
You’ll see two small 19th-century churches built within the grounds of the Fortezza. The first, immediately to the right of the entrance, is dedicated to St Theodore (Agios Theodoros) and, if you return to the main path into the Fortezza, the Church of St Catherine (Agia Ekaterini) is a short walk further, off the second path to the right.
Just beyond here is the most prominent and striking building in the Fortezza – the simple, unadorned stone domed Sultan Ibrahim Mosque. This was originally the Venetian-built Cathedral of St Nicholas, which was repurposed and partly rebuilt following the Ottoman takeover of the city. The transition from church to mosque was completed by 1648. The mosque is now used to house exhibitions, and the mihrab (prayer niche) within is well-preserved.
Head towards the northern wall of the Fortezza where you will see the remains of storehouses (also known as magazines) and two cisterns (wells) also remain intact within the Castle walls.
When To Visit Rethymno Fortezza
We stayed in Rethymno for two months, so had the luxury of cherry-picking the optimum time to visit, which is on a summer’s evening, an hour or two before sunset. If the slightly cooling northern meltemi wind is blowing from the north that day, it’ll make things a little more comfortable for you.
The one time I would avoid visiting Rethymno Fortezza is in the middle of a hot summer’s day. There is very little shade up on the hill, and you’ll roast there in the midday heat. Even at 8.00 am, when the Fortezza opens, it can be pretty warm, getting up towards 28-29 °C. This is why I suggest the evening, and then you get the bonus of enjoying the sunset from there too.
Fortezza Entrance
The entrance to the Fortezza is on the eastern side of the complex, at the top of Chimaras street. After passing the Palazzo Fortezza Hotel on your left, you’ll then pass the landmark blue stairs of Rethymno, on an alleyway next to a restaurant, on your right. Continue 50 metres straight ahead from there, passing the Ottoman-built ravelin on your right, and you’ll reach the entrance.
Rethymno Fortezza Opening Times
The Fortezza is open from 8.00 am to 7.15 pm daily during the summer season, with shorter hours – 10.00 am to 5.00 pm – during winter.
Fortezza Tickets
Tickets are €5.00 per adult, €3.00 for seniors.
Visiting Rethymno – What Else Is There To See
We used Rethymno as a base for two months during our first extended trip to Crete. There are enough things to do in Rethymno to warrant staying there for a week or two. It’s the capital of the central-western region of Crete, with Heraklion to the east and Chania to the west, and makes a great base for exploring this part of the island, even for making a longer day trip to Balos Beach or Elafonissi Beach on the far west coast.
It’s not just about the location though. We found that Rethymno makes a lovely base to dip in and out of, with a gorgeous Venetian and Ottoman (mainly 15th to 18th centuries) Old Town. The narrow streets are full of hidden Venetian palazzi and treasures like the Renaissance-period Rimondi Fountain, around which one of the Old Town’s main squares is built. There’s also a small Venetian harbour below the east side of the fortezza, with a lighthouse built by Egyptian workers employed by the Ottoman Turks in the 19th century.
The other main reason people choose Rethymno is its beaches. I’d say that Rethymno is one of the best historic beach towns in Europe, along with Chania an hour to the west. Rethymno’s main town beach is around a kilometre east of the Old Town proper, and extends around 10 km (6 miles) beyond the city’s eastern limits to the resort at Sfakaki. There are many more great Rethymno beaches across the region, and Spilies and Geropotamos beaches are both within ten miles of the city.
There are also plenty of day trips from Rethymno, from Arkadi Monastery in the hills to the east to the beaches of the south coast, including the stunning clear waters of Kalypso Beach and the nearby Preveli Palm Beach.
Visiting Rethymno Fortezza – Final Thoughts
I hope that you’ve found this article useful. Rethymno Fortezza is well worth a visit, the views from it are magnificent, but like other castles around the island – with the exception of the Koules in Heraklion and the fortress in Spinalonga – there’s not a great deal of information around the site for visitors. So the knowledge provided here will stand you in good stead.
I’ve spent eight months exploring Crete, and written extensively about this astounding island. Here’s a selection of articles for you to browse:
Overall Crete Articles
Regions of Crete – what to see where, and how to choose your ideal base for your Crete holiday
Pink Beaches In Crete – the 3 stunning pink sand beaches to visit on Crete
Famous Landmarks In Crete To Visit – from Knossos to its most famous beaches, gorges and more
Castles in Crete – Heraklion, Rethymno, Frangokastello and more
Minoan Sites in Crete – the six World Heritage-listed Minoan palace sites on the island
Heraklion and Central Crete
Things To Do In Heraklion – discover the greatly underrated capital of Crete
Visiting Knossos Palace Crete – the foremost ancient Minoan site in the world
Visiting Heraklion Archaeological Museum – the foremost museum on Minoan history
Things To Do In Malia – away from the foam parties – terrific beaches, lovely Old Town and a Bronze Age World Heritage Site
Things To Do In Hersonissos – Crete’s other main party town
Hersonissos or Malia – which is better for you?
Bali Crete Beaches – guide to all 5 beaches in this beautiful north coast village
Kalypso Beach Crete – a fjord, of all things, in Crete – and one of the best places to swim and snorkel in Greece
Visiting Spinalonga Island Crete – the impregnable Venetian fortress that became home to Greece’s last leper colony
Voulisma Beach – glorious golden sands in eastern Crete
Western Crete
Things To Do In Chania – discover the most beautiful city in Crete, indeed, perhaps, Greece
Balos Beach Crete – one of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean
Elafonissi Beach – the most famous pink sand beach in Crete
Falassarna Beach – one of the most beautiful beaches in the world
Kedrodasos Beach– glorious pristine beach and coves in a grove of rare juniper trees
Things To Do In Rethymno – discovering Crete’s enchanting third city
Rethymno Beaches – 20 of the best beaches in Rethymno province in central and western Crete