12 Best Castles In Crete
It’s perhaps better known for its ancient sites, but there are some spectacular medieval castles in Crete to discover as you explore the island.
Most of them were built by the Venetian rulers of the island, with some added later by the Ottoman Turks who took over Crete in the 17th century.
These Cretan castles don’t tend to take long to visit. The most developed sites are those in Heraklion, Rethymno and Spinalonga, all of which take an hour or more to explore. Some of the other sites are bare and sparse, with little to see inside. Some charge entrance fees, while others are free to visit.
It’s well worth seeing some of these castles as you travel around Crete, and you can easily fit them into your itinerary. In this article I explain how to visit each of them, as well as giving background on the history of each of them. I hope you find it enjoyable and helpful.
Rocca a Mare or Koules, Heraklion
This harbour fortress was one of three main castles built by the Venetians to defend Crete from possible Ottoman attack. They built it between 1523 and 1540, and it was the lynchpin of the island’s maritime defences, with Gramvousa Castle (to the west) and Spinalonga Fortress (to the east – see both below) covering the north coast of the island.
It’s the best-preserved of these three castles, and also served as a vast storehouse for cargo imported to and exported from what was then known as the port of Candia.
The Rocca a Mare (often also called Koules, its Turkish name) replaced an earlier fortified tower close by, and a new breakwater had to be built to accommodate the new fortress. It was captured by Ottoman forces in 1669 after the 21-year Siege of Candia – the second longest siege in history, and something of a Pyrrhic victory given the huge losses and soldiers and massive expenditure over such a long period.
It’s the most complete of castles in Crete to visit, with a thorough exhibition on the history of the fortress and some outstanding views over the Venetian harbour and the modern port close by.
Admission is €10 for adults, €5 for children and seniors. The Koules is open daily except Tuesdays, with opening times between 8.00 and 8.30 am, and closing times between 3.30 pm in winter and 8.00 pm in summer.
Heraklion City Walls
The Rocca a Mare was an addition to the imposing Venetian city walls, built over a century from 1462 onwards. They were a large upgrade on the city’s Byzantine walls, and built to withstand the new threat of gunpowder and artillery. They are enormously thick, and in excellent condition – I’m surprised that they are not part of the Venetian Works of Defence World Heritage Site, which includes sites in Italy, Croatia and Montenegro.
I recommend a walk along at least part of the Walls to give yourself a better appreciation of the sheer size of the fortifications. I particularly recommend the Martinengo Bastion, the southernmost point of the city walls, from which you get a superb view of the skyline of the old town of Heraklion.
From there you also get a great view of the western section of the walls – this is close to the grave of Cretan author Nikos Kazantzakis, who is buried there on unconsecrated ground, having fallen out with the Greek Orthodox Church over his The Last Temptation of Christ – they accused him of blasphemy, among numerous other sins. From there you can also watch a Greek Second Division football game if you so wish – you get an excellent view into the stadium of the local Heraklion working-class-supported Ergotelis FC from there.
Tours: I recommend this Knossos and Heraklion Old Town guided tour, which covers more ground around the city centre than others.
Frangokastello Castle
Frangokastello is one of the most spectacularly sited castles in Crete, set between a sandy beach and the Libyan Sea on one side and the mountains of central Crete on the other. Its remote location on the south Crete cost means that it gets but a fraction of the visitors to the much more accessible north, and it’s one of the great hidden gems of Crete.
The Venetians built the Castle between 1371 and 1374, initially naming it after a local church, St Nikitas. The name Frangokastello was the Sfakian locals’ disparaging name for the castle, the name ‘Frank’ an insult meaning ‘foreign Catholics’ and even the Venetians – perhaps unaware of its derogatory meaning – ended up using it.
The Castle remained intact after the Ottoman conquest of Crete in 1669, and was the scene of a ferocious battle in 1828. Cretan and Epirote rebels under the command of Hatzimichalis Damianis occupied the castle and were besieged by Turkish troops, who eventually killed all 335 of them.
In late May and early June, an unusual phenomenon occurs, when what appear to be the shadows of soldiers seem to be moving towards the Castle. It only happens when the sea is calm and the air relatively moist around dawn. It has been explained as a ‘meteorological phenomenon’ but many call these figures Drosoulites, or men of dew, believing them to be the ghosts of Damianis’ massacred army.
Paleochora Castle
The Castle of Selino or Selinos above the southern village of Paleochora is one of the earliest Venetian castles in Crete. It was originally built by Marino Gradonigo in 1282, then rebuilt in 1334 following a ransacking by local rebels. This second castle fared better, lasting until 1653 when it was taken over and mostly destroyed by Ottoman Turkish forces.
The Turks later rebuilt the Castle, a large square area on the flat hilltop just above the small town. During the Cretan Revolt which began in 1866, the British Royal Navy (and later French, Italian, Prussian and Russian) rescued local Christians from the town, and the Royal Navy did the same in 1890 and 1897 – on the latter occasion rescuing Muslim refugees from the surrounding area. The Nazis took over Castle Selino during World War Two, but were ousted in October 1944.
There are two small corner towers, around 20 feet (6 metres) in height, low curtain walls and a lot of empty, partly overgrown space within.
Entry to the Castle is free, and it’s a five-minute walk up the hill from the ferry wharf on the east side of the town. The view from the top over the town towards the mountains is magnificent.
See Also: Things To Do In Paleochora Crete
Koules, Agia Roumeli
The Turkish koules (Castle) above the southern seaside village of Agia Roumeli is the most intact of four fortresses built in this remote part of the island in the 19th century.
Agia Roumeli is best-known as the end point of the Samaria Gorge hike, one of the most popular things to do in Crete, and the Koules is located to the west of the mouth of the Gorge, up a steep incline. The Samaria Gorge was a hideout for rebels during the 1866 Cretan Revolt against Turkish rule, and once rebel activity in the area was suppressed, the built this and the other three fortresses.
The best view of the Koules is from the Agia Roumeli ferry as it approaches the village from the Paleochora direction. The Koules is one of two great walks from Agia Roumeli – the other is the E4 coastal path which leads you to the gorgeous 11th -century Byzantine church at Agios Pavlos Beach, and eventually the beautiful seaside village of Loutro.
Rethymno Fortezza
The Venetian fortress at Rethymno, on a peninsula next to its harbour, was built by the Venetians between 1573 and 1580. It replaced an earlier fortification which quickly succumbed to an Ottoman attack in 1571 – and was intended to be much more secure.
At one stage the Venetians considered moving the population of Rethymno into the Fortezza, but it wasn’t large enough to accommodate everyone. However it was intended to use it a s a place of refuge if the city came under attack again.
Having grown up within a 5-minute walk of one of the best castles in Europe (Caerphilly), Rethymno’s Fortezza was surprisingly inadequate. Its walls are very low, and there are no outer defences – making it difficult to defend.
The rebuilt Fortezza lasted until 1646, when the Ottomans captured Rethymno, forcing the citizens to take refuge in the Fortezza. They held out for six weeks before surrendering in November of that year.
The Ottomans eventually concerted the Cathedral within the Fortezza into the Sultan Ibrahim Mosque, and many houses were also built within its walls (which are over a kilometre long).
These houses were knocked down in the 20th century as the city expanded to the east and west. There is a lot of empty space within the Fortezza, and a lot of uneven ground, so wear decent walking shoes and not flip-flops.
The Fortezza is open 8.00 am to 7.15 pm between May and September and 10.00 am to 5.00 pm from October to April. Adult tickets are €4, seniors pay €3.
We visited towards sunset when conditions were cooler, the light stunning and the views breathtaking. I recommend doing the same if you have the time.
See Also: 13 Best Things To do In Rethymno
Spinalonga Castle
One of the most famous landmarks in Crete, the fortress of Spinalonga was built by the Venetians to defend the northeast coast of the island and the Gulf of Elounda. The Gulf was a particularly lucrative source of income for the Venetians due to the extensive salt pans there. These continued to be exploited until the 1970s.
Spinalonga Castle guarded the northern entrance to the Gulf of Elounda, and had an astonishing record as a defensive bulwark. Whereas almost everywhere else in Crete had fallen to the Ottomans by 1669, Spinalonga housed Christian refugees for the following 46 years until 1715.
It was later settled by Turkish refugees before the Ottomans finally left Crete in 1903, and thereafter the fortress island became a place of exile. It was the last leper colony in Greece, where leprosy sufferers were forced to live in appalling conditions and social stigma by a society (indeed a world) that had little understanding of the disease and how it was transmitted. The colony was finally closed down in 1957, after antibiotic cure had been discovered.
Spinalonga is one of the most popular places to visit in Crete, with tours picking customers up from all resorts around Heraklion. This Spinalonga tour from Heraklion also includes a stop in the beautifully set nearby city of Agios Nikolaos. Other options include a Spinalonga tour with barbecue lunch at Kolokitha beach.
See Also: Visiting Spinalonga – The Complete Guide
Chania City Walls
The city walls of Chania are extensive – around 2 kilometres long – and while most were built during the Venetian period of rule a section in the Kastelli district of the Old Town was built by the Byzantines who preceded them. This section of wall on Sifaka dates from the 10th century.
Chania and the rest of Crete came under Venetian rule in the 13th century, and they built walls around the expanding city between 1336 and 1356. As Crete came under increasing threat from the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century, the city walls were rebuilt under the auspices of Michele Sanmicheli. The Firkas fortress on the west side of the harbour (next to the city’s Maritime Museum) was added in 1620.
In 1645, Ottoman forces landed nearby and occupied Chania after a siege lasting eight weeks. They occupied Chania on 22nd August of that year, and remained in control of the city until 1898.
Tours: Chania Old Town Guided Tour With Street Food – covering the Old Town and Venetian Harbour, the city’s Market and much more
See Also: 15 Best Things To Do In Chania
Gramvousa Castle
Gramvousa Castle was the western link in the chain of Venetian fortresses defending the northern coast of Crete from Ottoman incursions from the late 16th century onwards.
It was built between 1579 and 1584, and like some of the other Venetian castles in Crete the walls are quite low. This is less of a problem than somewhere lower-lying and therefore more vulnerable like Rethymno Fortezza.
Gramvousa Castle is built on the highest point of the uninhabited island of Gramvousa, just off the northwestern tip of mainland Crete and within a short distance of the stunning Balos Beach and lagoon.
Most cruises to Balos Beach stop at Gramvousa, usually for two hours. Many people opt for time on breathtaking Gramvousa Beach, while some hardier souls make the climb 137 metres above sea level to the ramparts of the Castle – a steep walk that can be punishing in the midday sun, the time when most cruises stop there.
There’s not a great deal to see in the Castle itself – it’s a large empty space, which once accommodated 3,000 rebels who captured it in 1825. As they had no food supplies they had to resort to piracy, hence the sobriquet ‘Pirate Island’ for a few years. These activities were eventually halted by a combined British and French force which capture the island and Castle in 1828.
I recommend the hike up to the Castle simply for the view over Gramvousa Beach and the turquoise seawater around the island – it’s one of the best views from a castle in Europe.
Getting there: You can normally only visit Gramvousa as part of a combined cruise with nearby Balos Beach.
This cruise from Kissamos to Balos and Gramvousa gives you two hours on Gramvousa and around four hours at Balos.
And this catamaran cruise to Balos and Gramvousa also includes transfers to the port at Kissamos from as far away as Georgioupolis, just to the west of Rethymno.
Aptera Castle, Souda, Chania
The Koules of Aptera – named after the nearby ancient city – was built by the occupying Ottoman Turks in 1867-1868 in response to the outbreak of the Cretan Revolt in 1866.
It sits on the summit of a promontory with views south towards Kalyves (a very pleasant resort town) and strategically vital Souda Bay to the north.
The Castle didn’t see a great deal of action, as its builder had left the island within 30 years (in 1898). As a result it’s intact, mightily imposing and has amazing views over the coastline. If you’re visiting the Koules, I also suggest exploring the Classical Greek city of Aptera, once a rival of Kydonia (modern Chania), which has the remains of an ancient theatre well worth seeing.
Getting there: The Koules is a mile off the main Heraklion-Rethymno-Chania E75 road. It’s one of those places that’s more convenient to drive to than walk, especially in the heart of the summer season. There is a bus stop for Aptera where you can alight. You reach the ancient city site before the Koules.
Ierapetra Castle
The Kales (derived from the Turkish koules) may be one of the oldest castles in Crete, with a possible foundation date of 1212. It was supposedly built by a Genoese pirate, Enrico Pescatore, who then promptly sold it to the Venetians. It’s possible that some of this original structure remains.
The Castle, which occupies a prominent site on the city waterfront, was damaged by the 1508 earthquake, and some a restoration was undertaken by Francesco Morosini in 1626. The Venetian only held the Castle for a further twenty-one years, as it was taken over by the invading Ottoman Turkish army in 1647.
It looks impressive from the outside, but the interior has been closed for several years due to ongoing archaeological excavations.
Getting there: Buses run to Ierapetra from Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos.
Tours: Ierapetra is the departure point for the golden beaches of Chrissi Island – and this Chrissi Island catamaran cruise, with food, drinks, swimming, snorkelling and SUP breaks included.
Sitia Castle (Kazarma)
The Venetian Castle, or Casa di Arma, has stood on the hill above Crete’s easternmost city since the 13th century, when the Venetians built it to augment Byzantine fortifications already there.
The Kazarma has had a rather sad history, suffering considerable damage in earthquakes in 1303 and 1508. The Castle was strengthened, as were most castles in Crete, in anticipation of the Ottoman invasion, in the 16th century, but not sufficiently. When the Turks finally arrived in 1645, the Venetians decided against defending it, decamping westwards to Candia (Heraklion) instead.
After taking over the Kazarma, the Turks made some alterations, including the addition of the domed turrets on the corners of the fortress. They added to the town walls which extended down to the sea, but these have long since been removed.
Other than the view from the Castle, there’s little to see inside the Castle, and the €5 ticket price should be reduced to €1 or 2. The best thing about it is the view from there over the town through the windows.
Getting there: Buses run to Sitia several times a day from Heraklion, and. Ferry service also operates between the two cities.
Castles in Crete – Final Thoughts
I hope that you have enjoyed this article on the castles of Crete. They are among the best surviving examples of the island’s Venetian and Turkish past, and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed seeing them.
We have spent over eight months living in and travelling around Crete, and I’ve written extensively about the island. Here are some more articles on Crete for you to browse through:
Hersonissos or Malia – which is better for you?
Voulisma Beach – glorious golden sands in eastern Crete
Things To Do In Chania – discover the most beautiful city in Crete, indeed, perhaps, Greece
Pink Beaches In Crete – the 3 stunning pink sand beaches to visit on Crete
Elafonissi Beach – the most famous pink sand beach in Crete
Falassarna Beach – one of the most beautiful beaches in the world
Famous Landmarks In Crete To Visit – from Knossos to its most famous beaches, gorges and more
Kedrodasos Beach– glorious pristine beach and coves in a grove of rare juniper trees
Things To Do In Rethymno – discovering Crete’s enchanting third city
Rethymno Beaches – 20 of the best beaches in Rethymno province in central and western Crete
Bali Crete Beaches – guide to all 5 beaches in this beautiful north coast village
Things To Do In Heraklion – discover the greatly underrated capital of Crete
Visiting Knossos Palace Crete – the foremost ancient Minoan site in the world
Visiting Heraklion Archaeological Museum – the foremost museum on Minoan history
Minoan Sites in Crete – the six World Heritage-listed Minoan palace sites on the island
Panormos Crete – complete guide to this charming fishing village on Crete’s north coast
Arkadi Monastery Crete – fascinating monastery and church, site of infamous massacre during the Cretan Revolt
Kalypso Beach Crete – a fjord, of all things, in Crete – and one of the best places to swim and snorkel in Greece