The four regions of Crete are all very different, and before you start planning your holiday there, it helps to know what distinguishes them from each other.
They all have that stunning combination of dramatic mountain scenery and pristine beaches with gorgeous clear turquoise water. And each has its own quirks and curiosities.
This article is all about sifting between them, and working out which region of Crete is right for you.
I begin with a brief overall introduction to the island, continuing with an overview of each of the four regions in Crete – Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Lassithi – picking out the highlights and pointing out the best places to seek off the beaten track.
Regions of Crete – Introduction
Crete is divided into four regions, all of which have a north and south coast:
Chania – the westernmost province, with Crete’s most beautiful city, its most famous beaches and some of the most stunning g coastline you’re ever likely to see
Rethymno – the link between the centre and west, with rugged mountains, gorges, beautiful villages and a beautiful capital and Old Town
Heraklion – central and part of eastern Crete, named after the capital of the island, with historic treasures and an abundance of beaches
Lassithi – the easternmost province, with a few popular resorts, but mostly remote and well off the beaten track
Visiting Crete – What You Need To Know
There’s an enormous difference between the north and south coasts of each region
Much of the north coast is developed for tourism – in a few cases too much so
Getting around the north of the island is quite easy, with a main road linking the four main cities and most places in between – and buses cover this part of Crete quite well
The terrain of the island is rugged and mountainous, which makes travelling in the centre and south of Crete slow on winding, narrow mountain roads
It takes over six hours to drive across Crete from end to end
Your best bet is to choose one region of Crete for your first trip to the island – and if you like what you see – branch out beyond on subsequent trips
Regions of Crete – Regional Guides
Chania Region – The Far West of Crete
You could also call Chania the Wild West of Crete. The further you go from the ancient (and stunning) capital Chania, the more remote and inspiring the scenery becomes. The crowds have discovered the famous beaches of Balos and Elafonissi, but much of the rest of the region is still some way off the beaten track.
Chania Region – The Highlights
Chania Old Town – Minoan, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman history, with some great town beaches, museums and great restaurants
Balos Beach – the most popular day trip, to a gorgeous beach and lagoon beneath a soaring mountain peak in the northwest corner of the island
Elafonissi Beach – famous beach with fringes of pink sands, the fragments of millions of crushed shells washed up on the shore
Samaria Gorge – superb hike through the White Mountains, the rugged heart of Crete, finishing on the south coast at Agia Roumeli
Paleochora to Chora Sfakion Ferry – compelling, breathtaking trip along the wild southwest coast of Crete
Falassarna Beach – our nomination for the most beautiful beach in Crete – and possibly Europe
Chania Region – The Best Hidden Gems To Seek Out
Kedrodasos Beach – remote beaches in a juniper forest a short hike from Elafonissi – with hardly another visitor in sight
Agios Pavlos Beach and Church – a thousand-year-old Byzantine Church on a spectacular pebble beach, possibly my personal favourite place in Crete
Gramvousa Beach and Castle – breathtaking island beach and Venetian fortress, only accessible via the ferry to Balos Beach
Frangokastello – dramatically sited Venetian Castle overlooking a superb sandy beach and the Libyan Sea
Who Would Love Chania Region
The region of Chania has some of the best of all the best things in Crete – so whether you love beaches, mountain scenery, hiking, churches, castles or historic old towns you will find much to love in Chania.
Hire Car Or Public Transport?
Buses cover many of the main sights, and tours are often the easiest way to reach remote places like Balos and Elafonissi
Some areas (Akrotiri Peninsula, the west coast) have few to no bus services, so a car is essential for these
A ferry covers the south coast between Paleochora and Chora Sfakion
Rethymno Region – The Central West
Beyond busy Rethymno town, with its medieval and Ottoman charms and vast, long town beach, the surrounding region feels a lot quieter, with the south coast surprisingly quiet even in the peak summer season.
Rethymno Highlights
Rethymno Old Town – one of the most beautiful old towns in Greece, with a Venetian Castle, mosques and minarets in the tangle of shady medieval lanes
Arkadi Monastery – golden honey-coloured Venetian church in monastery, scene of tragic sacrifice of rebels, women and children in the early stages of the 1866 Cretan Revolt
Preveli Palm Beach And Monastery – gorgeous beach with palm forest and the stunning Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Triopetra beach – superb beach in the far south of the province with wonderful rock formations
Rethymno Region – The Best Hidden Gems to Seek Out
Spilies Beach and Kamara Sea Arch – fantastic hidden small beach, and a great coastal walk to one of the finest sea arches in Europe nearby
Kalypso Beach near Plakias – extraordinary small fjord on the Libyan Sea coast, with some of the clearest water for swimming and snorkelling that we’ve ever seen
Spili Village – one of the most beautiful villages in Crete, with a famous Venetian fountain with over 20 lions’ heads
Who Would Love Rethymno Region
Those who want to delve a little deeper and venture off the beaten track more.
Wonderful if you love the history, dramatic scenery, beautiful villages. – with plenty of beaches without the crowds you get elsewhere.
Hire Car Or Public Transport
If you stick to the main sites along the north coast and a few miles inland, local buses may well have you covered. But a car will get you much further if you want to explore the mountain villages and south coast.
Heraklion – History, Mountain Villages and The Resort Strip
Heraklion is the arrival point of many visitors to Crete, whether it’s a cruise stop, a ferry hop or the airport. Crete’s capital isn’t as easy on the eye as Chania, but it’s packed with culture and history, including one of the best archaeological museums in the world.
The coast either side of Heraklion is the most heavily-touristed part of Crete, with a mixture of small family-friendly seaside villages and packed-out party towns in Hersonissos and Malia.
Heraklion Region – The Highlights
Knossos – the largest Minoan Palace site, one of the best places to visit to appreciate this great Bronze Age civilisation which pre-dated Classical Greece by a thousand years
Heraklion Archaeological Museum – reason alone to visit Crete, the ultimate collection of Minoan artworks and artefacts in the world
CretAquarium – superb state-of-the-art introduction to the marine life of Crete and the southeast Mediterranean, great for kids and nature lovers
Archanes – one of the loveliest small towns in Crete, and producer of some of the best wins on the island
Matala Beach – famous beach with caves in its cliffs where hippies live for a while in the ‘60s and early ‘70s
Heraklion Region – The Best Hidden Gems To Seek Out
Potamos Beach and Malia Palace – the best beach near Malia, with a World Heritage-listed Minoan palace site a short walk away
Lychnostatis Museum in Hersonissos – one of the best open-air museums in Europe, covering life in rural Crete in the 19th and early 20th centuries
El Greco Museum and Byzantine Church at Fodele
Avli Tou Defkaliona Restaurant, Heraklion – backstreet gem with a 17th-century fountain for decoration, and outstanding seafood
Who Would Love Heraklion Region
History lovers – especially Knossos and the outstanding Heraklion Archaeological Museum
Beach lovers – for quieter beach villages (ideal for families) or the full-blown party towns of Hersonissos and Malia
Hire Car Or Public Transport?
Bus routes connect all the town centres, but don’t cover anywhere off the beaten track
If you’re venturing beyond the main road and most popular sights, a car would be preferable
Lassithi – The Wild East Of Crete
Lassithi is the easternmost part of Crete is the remotest part of the island, where the fewest visitors venture. Beyond Agios Nikolaos, Elounda and Voulisma Beach everything suddenly thins out and you’re into the quietest part of the island. Here’s what awaits you.
Lassithi – The Highlights
Agios Nikolaos, its beaches, lake and the scenery of Mirabello Bay
Spinalonga Island – Venetian fortress, alter Greece’s last leper colony
Kolokitha Peninsula -swimming cruises in crystal-clear water with beach barbecue lunches – tour packages often tie these in with a trip to Spinalonga
Voulisma Beach – glorious golden sands, just aim for a calm day rather than a windy one
Lassithi Plateau – the fertile mountain oasis of Crete
Sitia – Crete’s easternmost city, famous for its delectable sweet pastries
Vai Palm Beach – worth the trip to the east coast alone
Lassithi – The Best Hidden Gems To Seek Out
Xerokampos and its magnificent series of remote beaches
Mochlos – remote fishing village with great tavernas and a Minoan island site
Moni Toplou Monastery – one of Crete’s most intriguing churches, and best olive oil producers
Picturesque Kritsa village, Panagia Kera church and the ancient mountain city of Lato
Who Would Love Lassithi
Elounda and Agios Nikolaos are made for beach loungers and luxury lovers
Most of Lassithi is way off the beaten track, ideal for adventurous souls
Hire Car Or Public Transport?
Public transport is fine for the area around Agios Nikolaos, including Elounda, Plaka, Kritsa and Voulisma Beach.
Beyond that, you’ll need your own set of wheels, especially to the east of Sitia and Ierapetra.
How To Choose Your Base In Crete
If it’s your first time in Crete, I’d be inclined to do as we did and stay somewhere in Chania province – possibly in the old city of Chania itself, or in one of the accessible resorts on the bus route to the west coast of the island.
Chania is a gorgeous city, the loveliest in Crete, and together with the beaches of Balos and Elafonissi, and the dramatic scenery of the White Mountains, it’s more than enough to get you hooked and wanting much more.
Rethymno region makes a wonderful second course. Rethymno is also one of the most picturesque cities in Greece, and one of the best historic beach towns in Europe.
Rethymno province is generally a little quieter than the Heraklion and Chania regions, with plenty of sights close by in the foothills and the second highest peak in Crete, Psiloritis. Several of the most beautiful villages in Crete are in the Rethymno region, and its short section of southern coast is packed with outstanding beaches like Triopetra, Skinaria and Kalypso.
If you’re more inclined to seek out the historical treasures of Crete first, Heraklion province may be a good bet. The Minoan site of Knossos and Heraklion Archaeological Museum are the places to start, and the Roman capital of the island (part of the Crete-Cyrenaica province) Gortyn is to the south. The province is also home to some of the finest churches in Crete, and some magnificent beaches on both the south and north coasts.
We left Lassithi until last and will be heading back for a further helping. It reminds us very much of the more isolated parts of Chania province, and outside the Agios Nikolaos – Elounda area it’s like stepping back 40 or 50 years in time.