Things To Do On The Llŷn Peninsula
Two World Heritage Sites, an Isle of 20,000 Saints and some of the most beautiful beaches and coastal walks in Europe – these are a few of the best things to do on the Llŷn Peninsula.
The Llŷn is the finger of land pointing westwards from Eryri – more widely known as the Snowdonia National Park – to the Irish Sea. Parts of it are popular with visitors, but it takes very little time to get well off the beaten track on Llŷn.
This green patchwork of fields with its knobbly rocky hills is one of the strongest bastions of the Welsh language, which is the first language of many who live there. It’s also an area visited by countless medieval pilgrims intent on reaching the holy island of Bardsey (Ynys Enlli), just off the tip of the Peninsula.
Many are drawn to Llŷn by its beaches and scenery, and for us these and its history and mystique have brought us back a great many times.
In this guide I’ll show you my pick of the best places to visit on the Llŷn Peninsula, and advise you on getting to and around the area, and the best places to stay while there.
Caernarfon Castle
We begin with one of the most famous landmarks in Wales, and one of the outstanding medieval castles in the world.
The work of master military architect James of St George, this mighty coastal fortress was built to guard the southern entrance to the Menai Strait separating mainland Wales from Anglesey. It was partly inspired by and modelled on the imposing Theodosian Walls which had kept Constantinople safe for 700 years at the time, and Caernarfon is still as daunting a sight as it would have been in 1283.
Caernarfon Castle is probably slightly better known to the wider world than any other Welsh castle because it was the venue for the Investiture of Prince Charles (now King Charles III) as Prince of Wales in 1969.
A lift now carries visitors onto the wall walk, sparing anyone with mobility issues the painful climb up stone spiral staircases. Now everyone can enjoy the superb views from the upper level of the castle, both of its inner ward and over the Seiont estuary and Menai Strait. Along with Conwy, Harlech and Beaumaris Castles, it is part of the Castles and Walled Towns of Edward I in Gwynedd World Heritage Site. Undoubtedly one for any Wales Bucket List.
Where To Stay – The Black Boy Inn – outstanding historic pub within the Walled Town and very close to the Castle
Dinas Dinlle Beach
The first beach south of Caernarfon is a stunner. Dinas Dinlle is a long, wide sand and pebble beach stretching down the Caernarfon Bay coast, with breathtaking views south to the three peaks of Yr Eifl, the highest mountains on the LlŷnPeninsula.
The beach is just south of Caernarfon Airworld, and near the main entrance to the beach you can see the remains of the Iron Age fort that gives the village its name. It has been gradually collapsing onto the beach for the last few decades as the coastline erodes.
Getting there: The G6 bus runs from Caernarfon to Dinas Dinlle every two hours Mondays to Saturdays. If you’re driving, it’s reachable via a minor road off the A499.
Clynnog Fawr Church
St Beuno’s Church at Clynnog Fawr is one of the two largest churches on the Llŷn Peninsula, an enormous parish church for this part of the world built from the donations of generations of pilgrims who passed through on their way to Bardsey Island.
The large church is sparsely decorated inside, but one thing you can see is the oak chest where donations were collected up until the 16th century and the Reformation and Dissolution of the Monasteries which brought this source of income to a halt.
The original clas (monastic community) was founded by St Beuno in the 6th or 7th centuries, but the present church dates from the late 15th and early 16th centuries, and it’s a fine example of the uniquely British Perpendicular Gothic style that was predominant on these Isles for around a century.
The church is just off the main A499 Caernarfon to Pwllheli, and the regular number 12 bus stops outside.
Where To Stay – Plas Dinas Country House – beautiful country house, the former home of Lord Snowdon, just outside Caernarfon
Visit Portmeirion Village
Portmeirion is a fantasy Italianate village on the coast of the Dwyryd estuary, in the southeast of the Llŷn Peninsula, looking across the river to the mountains of the Rhinog range. It was the lifelong project of local architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, who wanted to bring a dash of the Italian Riviera, particularly Portofino, to the northwest coast of Wales. It’s unlike anywhere else in Wales, and absolutely wonderful.
Williams-Ellis designed some of the buildings, including the Italian Baroque-style Campanile (belltower), while some were ‘rescued’, saved from demolition and brought to Portmeirion stone by stone, brick by brick. The result is a beautifully messy assortment of styles, from as Neoclassical Colonnade and domed Pantheon to pastel-painted Georgian-style cottages.
Sir Clough had to find a way to make all of this pay for itself, which he did by turning it into a holiday village. All of the cottages and suites in the village, the waterfront Hotel Portmeirion and the Castell Deudraeth castle hotel near the main car park are visitor accommodation, and it’s a magical place to stay, particularly on a quiet night in the off-season as I once did.
The village is small, and you could walk around most of it in an hour or two. Its gardens are sublime, especially in spring and summer, and I also recommend walks in the Gwyllt, the woodland above the village, and along the estuary if the tide is out.
Tours: This Portmeirion and Snowdonia tour from Llandudno is a great one-day highlights reel of North Wales, with trips around the Great Orme in Llandudno and the Conwy Valley included.
Where to Stay – anywhere in Portmeirion Village – this link gives you all available options.
See Also: Things To Do In Portmeirion – my complete guide
Ynysypandy Slate Mill
The second World Heritage Site on the Llŷn Peninsula is this extraordinary industrial building on the southwestern edge of the main Snowdonia range. Part of the Welsh Slate Landscape World Heritage Site, Ynysypandy Slate Mill stands alone in this barren upland, surrounded by mountains, a roofless cathedral of industry left to the elements for over a century.
The three-storey mill was built to process slate from the nearby Gorseddau Quarry workings, at the far end of the nearby lake, Llyn Cwm Ystradllyn. It was built in 1856-57 and was in operation until 1871 when the company running it got into financial difficulties.
Ynysypandy Slate Mill is believed to have been intact into the early 20th century, sometimes hosting local events including eisteddfodau (Welsh cultural events featuring music, poetry and dance). However, it has now been a roofless ruin for over a hundred years. I was privileged to work on the UNESCO bid for a few months, and took particular delight in seeing this amazing old building getting the recognition and status it deserves.
Getting there: by minor road off the A487 north of Porthmadog and Criccieth
Criccieth Castle
Edward I of England’s Castles dominate North Wales, but they’re not the only ones in the region. One of the finest Welsh Princes’ castle is on the headland at Criccieth, on the Peninsula’s south coast, overlooking the two beaches of one of the most timeless seaside towns in Wales.
Criccieth hasn’t changed much since it became a holiday resort in Victorian times. It’s such a picturesque spot, especially looking from the East Beach towards the Castle, or climbing the short but (don’t underestimate it) steep hill the views across Tremadog Bay to the Rhinog range to the east and mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) to the northeast.
The Castle was founded in the 13th century by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great) and extended by his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (Llywelyn the Last). Afterwards it was captured by English forces and held until 1420, when it was ransacked by the army of rebel Welsh Prince Owain Glyndwr.
One of the best things to do in Criccieth is to simply sit by the sea with a bag of fish and chips, followed by another takeaway treat, an ice cream from local legends Cadwalader’s. The coast path in either direction is also very rewarding, and those with an interest in British political history may be curious to visit the David Lloyd George Museum, dedicated to the only Welshman to be British Prime Minister, in nearby Llanystumdwy.
Where To Stay – Bron Eifion Hotel – beautiful country house hotel a mile from Criccieth town centre
Tre’r Ceiri
Tre’r Ceiri – the Town of Giants – is one of the most dramatic places to visit on the Llŷn Peninsula, occupying one of the three peaks that make up the Yr Eifl range that dominates the northern coast. It’s an Iron Age hillfort and village, built in an inhospitable spot facing the prevailing winds and rain from the southwest, but also a near-impregnable location that would have been incredibly difficult for an attacking Iron Age force to capture.
Tre’r Ceiri is around 2,000 years old, and the outer walls of the fort and the foundations of the huts in the village are largely intact. Anyone with an interest in ancient history should have their curiosity piqued by this alone. But add in the astounding views – in clear weather – and you have one very special place. The views are 360° from the summit area, and magnificent in all directions.
It took me around 25 minutes to hike up to Tre’r Ceiri at peak fitness a few years ago, and around 35-40 when I wasn’t in top condition. I’ve sent photographers up there on assignment and it has taken some more like 50 minutes.
Getting there: the car park is on the B4417 just after you leave the village of Llanaelhaearn. There is space for four or five vehicles.
Nant Gwrtheyrn
Hiking up to Tre’r Ceiri is like stepping back a couple of millennia. Driving down the narrow road to the former quarrying village of Nant Gwrtheyrn is like stepping back 130 years or so to the time when North Wales was at its industrial zenith. The village, then known as Porth y Nant, grew because of the granite quarry that was developed there, and which remained open until the outbreak of the Second World War.
Granite was in demand as a surface for roads and paving, so for several decades the quarry turned a good profit, and some of the workers were housed in the restored cottages around the square. The village was eventually abandoned in the 1950s, and after a hippie commune moved in for a while, gradually turned to ruin.
It was developed again from the early 1980s, reinvented as the national centre for adults learning Welsh as a second language (something I did myself sat high school). The village was also renamed Nant Gwrtheyrn, after the British King Vortigern, who is believed to have retreated there before dying. They run residential courses for learners, but you can also visit for an hour or two in the daytime, enjoy a meal at Caffi Meinir, or stay overnight in one of the cottages. You can book accommodation in Nant Gwrtheyrn here.
Visit Porthdinllaen
Visiting Porthdinllaen should be on your Llŷn Peninsula bucket list. This tiny seaside village has a wonderful sheltered beach, breathtaking views back up the Peninsula, and the Ty Coch Inn, one of the best seaside pubs in Europe, even the world.
It’s also incredibly picturesque, a cluster of cottages huddled around a cove with a sandy beach ideal for kids and families. It seems inconceivable now, but 200 years ago Porthdinllaen was being seriously considered as North Wales’ main port for trade and traffic with Ireland, but Holyhead was chosen because it had better road and rail links.
The village is in the lee of a narrow peninsula on which several holes of Nefyn and District Golf Club are located. You can walk along the path across the golf course to reach the village (non-residents have to park in the nearby village of Morfa Nefyn) or walk along the beach from Morfa Nefyn at low tide.
A wonderful half a day out.
Traeth Penllech
Traeth Penllech is one of the best hidden beaches on the Llŷn Peninsula, secluded in quiet countryside half a mile or so from the village of Llangwnnadl and its superb St Gwynhoedl’s Church.
I once had the good fortune to stay for a week in a cottage just five minutes’ walk from the beach, and many walks along the Coast Path and onto the pristine sands left me in no doubt that this is one very special place. There aren’t any facilities close to the beach, and the nearest car park – around halfway along – is less than five minutes’ walk away.
I’ve hardly ever seen another soul on this superb beach. It’s wild, wonderful and you can have it all to yourself. What more could you want from a beach? Bring a picnic and savour this beautiful place.
Getting there – by minor road off the B4417 from Llangwnnadl
Porth Iago
Porth Iago is one of the best hidden gems in Wales, a sheltered sandy beach on the north coast of the Llŷn that’s perfect for a quiet family day out. It tends to miss the worst of the coastal winds, so is great for paddling, and also stand-up paddleboarding offshore.
Porth Iago is hidden away beyond a farm, and access is via this private property. There’s a pay and display car park with a machine, and you can pay by card, which is useful. The standard 5 fee is for cars, and 1 if you bring your dog as well.
It’s a brilliant beach, and over several visits I’ve hardly seen more than two or three other visitors. The access path isn’t the easiest, and those with mobility difficulties might be wary about descending. But with a good sturdy pair of walking shoes getting down there should be straightforward.
Porth Iago Campsite is also close by – I haven’t stayed there, but it comes highly recommended.
Porth Oer (Whistling Sands)
Whistling Sands (Porth Oer or Porthor in Welsh) is the best-known of the beaches on this stretch of the north LlŷnPeninsula coast, and at some point during your trip I suggest making an hour or three free to visit.
It gets its English name from the sound the sand makes underfoot as you walk along the beach. The sand makes what I would describe as a slightly squeaky crunch. It’s a result of the round, similarly sized grains of sand on the beach, and warm weather makes the ‘whistle’ more likely.
There’s a small café and beach shop in the small concrete building in the southern corner of the beach, and the National Trust-operated car park (5 per car for a full day) is at the top of the hill. It’s busier than Porth Iago or Traeth Penllech, but still quiet compared to the beach at Abersoch.
Getting there: it’s 3 miles north of Aberdaron via a minor road.
Spend The Day At Llanbedrog Beach
Llanbedrog Beach is one of the very best Llŷn Peninsula beaches, a sheltered curve of golden sand with blissful views across to the mountains of Snowdonia. I even rate it one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, as does my wife Faye.
It’s down the end of a narrow lane through woodland, with a stream running alongside. On your right, as you reach the beach, is a bistro and an ice cream cart. As you step onto the beach, a single white stone house stands just above the shore to your right, while a long line of brightly-painted beach huts stretches away to the left. It’s like stepping into paradise.
As the conditions are so calm, kids can paddle away in the shallow water all day to their hearts’ content, and if you feel like a wander there is a partly stepped path up the steep hill, Mynydd Tir-y-Cwmwd, where you reach a superb viewpoint over the beach and countryside beyond. The Iron Man (Y Dyn Haearn) sculpture stands there surveying the scene.
I also recommend a visit to Oriel Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, just up the hill from the beach. It’s the main arts centre and gallery on the Llŷn, and they always have exhibitions on and run art courses.
Where To Stay – Craig Y Glyn – superb guesthouse a 5-minute walk from the beach
Abersoch Beach
Abersoch is an anomaly on the Llŷn Peninsula. It has changed more than anywhere else in the rea since I first visited over 40 years ago. The main beach, with its higgledy-piggledy painted beach huts, is fantastic, with lots of sand, a sheltered location away from the winds, and amazing views to the mountains of Eryri. It’s one of the best beaches in North Wales, indeed the whole country. Your kids will probably remember their time there and thank you for it for the rest of your lives.
However, it has lost its village charm along the way. And it doesn’t feel like the rest of the Llŷn – it’s more like a metropolitan exclave, very different in feel to everywhere else. The unfortunate thing is that the bars, cafes, delis and multiple holiday homes have changed it beyond recognition, with young locals forced to move away. You often read about overtourism in places like Venice and Barcelona, and this is another facet of it.
That said, as I suggested in my introduction, you don’t have to venture far to get away from it. The superb south-facing beach at Porth Ceiriad is only two miles away, and the lovely villages of Llanengan and Llangian are a similar distance away.
Where To Stay – The Egryn Abersoch – a rare hotel among the many short-term rentals and holiday homes
Porth Neigwl (Hells Mouth)
Along with the beaches around Rhosneigr on Anglesey, the remote empty Hell’s Mouth (Porth Neigwl) is North Wales’ surfers destination of choice.
It’s only a few miles from Abersoch – and reachable via the backroad that connects it with Aberdaron – but it feels a world away from the popular tourist village.
It’s much loved by surfers but the strong currents whirling around make it a no-go for families, especially with young kids. That’s hardly a problem given the wealth of other Llŷn beaches to choose from.
I’m not a surfer, but I’ve always loved the wild feel of this place, especially on one of those blustery days with big waves that surfers so enjoy. It looks so calm in the image I’ve used above – but trust me, it rarely is!
Plas yn Rhiw
The National Trust-owned Plas yn Rhiw is a fascinating house overlooking Porth Neigwl which, for the first part of the 20th century, was home to the Keating sisters. The original plas (manor house) was completed in 1634, and the windows are from the Georgian period (late 18th or early 19th centuries). It’s believed that a 10th-century house was built by one of the Welsh Princes somewhere in the vicinity.
By the 17th century rebuild Plas yn Rhiw was under the ownership of the Lewis family. It was eventually acquired by the Keating sisters – Honora, Lorna and Eileen- in 1939, and they set about restoring the house and garden. Clough Williams-Ellis, architect of Portmeirion, offered them advice on this, and gave them a Gothic-style door.
The interior of the House is full of early 20th-century paraphernalia, from the amazing Grafonola record player to a perfectly preserved early 20th-century medicine cabinet. And the ornamental Garden is glorious, its plants and flowers able to flourish in sheltered conditions away from the winds which reach Porth Neigwl beach below.
Visit Aberdaron
Aberdaron is sometimes called the ‘Land’s End of North Wales’ and this small village does have an end of the road feeling about it. But there are far more things to do in Aberdaron than seeing the southwestern tip of North Wales, and what lies beyond.
Like many places on the Llŷn Peninsula, Aberdaron grew and prospered because it is on the pilgrimage route to Bardsey Island, a few miles away across the often treacherous Bardsey Sound. Indeed it was and still is the departure point for boats to the island – they leave from Porth Meudwy, a small harbour a mile to the west of Aberdaron.
One of the most prominent buildings in the village, the whitewashed cottage Y Gegin Fawr, dates back to the 14th century when it was a hostelry for pilgrims. And just around the corner, overlooking the gorgeous beach, St Hywyn’s Church grew wealthy on pilgrim pounds and pence, even adding a second nave in the early 16th century. The church was also the last posting of R S Thomas, one of the finest Welsh poets of the 20th century, who served as vicar from 1967 to 1978.
Where To Stay – The Ship Hotel – great family-run hotel a few steps from the beach
Bardsey Island (Ynys Enlli)
Bardsey (the name has Norse origins) is known as Ynys Enlli, the island of currents, in Welsh, and it’s these dangerous rushes and movements of water that make it so devilishly difficult for pilgrims to reach this remote destination.
I know because I have tried multiple times, but a combination of unexpected winds and whipped-up waters have frustrated me despite multiple attempts.
The journey to Bardsey is one of the two most important pilgrimages in Wales, and three journeys there were declared by Pope Callixtus II to be worth one to Rome. After my experiences, I think it should be the other way around.
Bardsey was the location of St Mary’s Abbey, originally founded by Breton St Cadfan in the 6th century AD. Centuries later it was known as the Isle of 20,000 Saints. And although 20,000 saints may not have been buried there, a great many monks and holy men were. Miracles were reported, and its popularity grew.
Nowadays pilgrims still travel to Bardsey, some seeking solitude, peace or a break from the modern world for a few days. Wildlife lovers also have plenty to see, with a permanent colony of resident Atlantic grey seals and nesting seabirds between May and early July. Little remains of St Mary’s Abbey, but Bardsey still has the same allure for pilgrims as it did 500 years ago. One day I hope to set foot there myself!
See Also: Welsh Islands – Ultimate Guide
Things To Do On The Llyn Peninsula – Final Thoughts
I hope that you have found this guide to the Llŷn Peninsula helpful. It’s a wonderful part of Wales, one that has enchanted many people I know, including a family from London who have been staying in the same place near Aberdaron for almost 40 years. Once you’ve visited the area yourself, don’t be surprised if you feel the same way.
Here are all of my other Llŷn Peninsula articles in one place for you to peruse:
Llŷn Peninsula beaches – from Porth Dinllaen to Portmeirion, some of the best beaches in Wales
Visiting Porthdinllaen – the stunning fishing hamlet with one of the best beach pubs in Europe
Things To Do In Aberdaron – the wondrous Land’s End of North Wales
Things To Do In Caernarfon – there’s more to this coastal town than one of the best medieval castles on the planet
Things To Do In Criccieth – lovely beach town with a Castle and stunning mountain views
Things To Do In Portmeirion – a touch of Portofino on the edge of Snowdonia
Churches On The Llŷn Peninsula – fascinating ancient churches along the pilgrim trails to Bardsey
And here is a selection of some of the best places to visit in the rest of North Wales:
Best things to do in Conwy – A stunning UNESCO Heritage town on the edge of Snowdonia National Park
Betws-y-Coed – A picturesque Welsh mountain town in the spectacular Snowdonia National Park
Things To Do In Harlech – World Heritage Castle, one of the best beaches in Wales, and much more
20 Best Castles In North Wales – from the World Heritage Castles of Edward I to the mountain fortresses of the Welsh Princes
Things To Do In Llangollen – gorgeous riverside town, one of the highlights of North East Wales
Things To Do In Barmouth – if you find a more beautiful setting for a seaside town, please let me know
15 Best Villages In North Wales To Visit – Beddgelert, Betws-y-Coed and many more
North Wales Travel Guide – everything you need to know about travelling in North Wales
Llanddwyn Island – One of the most special of all Welsh islands
Anglesey beaches & coastline – Home to some of the best beaches in the UK
Best things to do on Anglesey – the largest of Welsh Islands
More Beautiful Places to Visit in Wales
Landscapes in Wales – Breathtaking landscapes in Wales you must see
Rivers in Wales – Some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales
Lakes in Wales – Where you find some of the best views in Wales
Landmarks in Wales – famous places in Wales to Explore
Wales Bucket List – 40 Fantastic Places In Wales You Should Not Miss