A beachside hamlet, a pub a few steps from the sand, and one of the best views in Wales – these are the best reasons for visiting Porthdinllaen, one of the most beautiful places to visit in Wales.
It’s hard to believe that Porthdinllaen was once considered as North Wales’ major port for sea traffic to Ireland. It is the only sheltered harbour on the Llŷn Peninsula, but Holyhead was chosen because of its better road links. Porthdinllaen was a busy fishing village until the First World War, and also had a sideline in shipbuilding.
It’s as if the village was frozen in time afterwards. There are only about fifteen buildings in Porthdinllaen, including the popular Tŷ Coch Inn, one of the best locations you’ll ever find for a pub. It’s a great place for a lazy day at the beach, a drink or stand-up paddleboarding in the calm waters.
In this guide I’ll tell you everything you need to know before you visit Porthdinllaen, including what to do there, getting there and places to stay nearby. I hope you find it helpful.
Location: Near Morfa Nefyn village, Llŷn Peninsula, North Wales
Access: On foot only from Morfa Nefyn (20–25 minutes) via path across golf course or beach
Best for: Coastal walks, relaxed beach days, a drink by the sea
Highlight: Tŷ Coch Inn, set directly on the sand
Parking: Morfa Nefyn village or near Nefyn Golf Club
Things To Do In Porthdinllaen
Walk The Peninsula
The Porthdinllaen Peninsula makes a wonderful short coastal walk. You can follow the clifftop path along the golf course to the far end of the peninsula, and head back along the marine trail to the village, and even Morfa Nefyn. Much of this route is along the shoreline, a great walk if for kids wanting a paddle along the way.
The views all the way along the peninsula are fantastic, especially north to the three peaks of Yr Eifl (usually called ‘The Rivals’ in English).
Enjoy The Beach For A While
Porthdinllaen beach is idyllic, a long sweep of sand that extends all the way to Morfa Nefyn – if the tide is low enough you can walk to Porthdinllaen along the shoreline.
The calm waters (sheltered by the peninsula on which it stands) make it a very popular family beach, like Llanbedrog Beach on the south coast of the Llŷn. It’s a safe spot for paddling because of the shallow calm water, and also ideal for stand-up paddleboarding. One of the largest seagrass meadows on the Welsh coast is a short distance offshore. It’s long been one of my favourite Llŷn Peninsula beaches.
And there aren’t too many beaches in Britain where you can walk five or six steps to the pub. But this is Porthdinllaen.
Enjoy A Pint At The Tŷ Coch Inn
You’ll often find the Tŷ Coch Inn listed in ‘best beach pubs’ articles, and rightly so. Its name means ‘the red house’ and yes, it’s painted red. The painted sign on the slate roof and the side of the building leave you in no doubt where you need to head to slake your thirst.
The pub serves a selection of beers and wines, plus classic pub meals. You can take your drinks out onto the beach and enjoy them there – a blissful way to spend an hour or three.
It’s worth bearing in mind the pub’s opening hours before visiting Porthdinllaen. Note that it is always closed on Sunday evenings. Hours vary by season and are as follows:
High Season – late May to 1st September
Mondays to Thursdays 11.00 am to 10.00 pm
Fridays and Saturdays – 11.00 am to 11.00 pm
Sundays – 11.00 am to 5.00 pm
Food served 12.00 – 4.00 pm during this period
Shoulder Season – March to late May
Mondays to Thursdays – 11.00 am to 7.00 pm
Fridays and Saturdays – 11.00 am to 10.00 pm
Sundays – 11.00 am to 5.00 pm
Food Served 12.00 – 2.30 pm
Off Season – October to March
Mondays to Thursdays – Closed
Fridays and Saturdays – 11.00 am to 7.00 pm
Sundays – 12.00 – 4.00 pm
Food Served 12.00 to 2.30 pm
Play A Round Of Golf At Nefyn & District Golf Club
Nefyn Golf Club is quite well-known in Welsh and international golfing circles thanks to an aerial image of it that I directed back in 2005. We had to shoot a lead image to promote golf in Wales in the build-up to the Ryder Cup, and we chose Nefyn because of its dramatic setting on the narrow peninsula above Porthdinllaen. That image made waves, and their bookings shot up for years afterwards, I’m glad to say.
Visiting golfers can book tee times through the Nefyn Golf Club website. Bear in mind that if you want to play the holes on the (often windswept) peninsula, which is part of the Old Course, you’ll need to book the 27-hole package rather than the 18-hole Championship Course option.
Things To Do Near Porthdinllaen
Explore The Pilgrims’ Church At Pistyll
Porthdinllaen is on the medieval routes to Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), one of the most important pilgrimages in Wales. There are several outstanding churches along the north coast trail, including the nearby St Beuno’s Church in Pistyll.
It’s a tiny, simple, beautiful church, the walls built from rocks presumably found nearby. Both times I’ve visited I found the church floor covered in leaves and branches, a tradition going back centuries. There is also an 11th-century font in the church, and what may be a leper’s window – through which a leprosy sufferer could observe rites being performed – on the north side of the chancel.
The church is on the B4417 from Nefyn to Llanaelhaearn.
See Also: 8 Beautiful Churches On The Llŷn Peninsula
Climb To Tre’r Ceiri, The Iron Age Town Of Giants
Tre’r Ceiri – the Town of Giants – is one of the most remarkable ancient sites in Wales, a fortified Iron Age village built almost 1,500 feet above sea level over 2,000 years ago.
The outer walls of the complex and many hut circles remain, all stone foundations, their roofs and upper walls having been lost to the elements many centuries ago. The inhabitants may not have been giants, but they must have been incredibly hardy souls to have toughened it out up there.
The remains of the village and fortress are impressive, but it’s the setting and views that should propel you up the steep mountain to the top. I rate Tre’r Ceiri one of the best viewpoints in Wales, with superb views in all directions, particularly up and down the north coast of the Llŷn.
Getting there: The start of the walk is on the B4417 about half a mile before you reach Llanaelhaearn (if travelling from Nefyn). From there, it’s anything from a 25-minute to an hour’s hike, depending on your fitness and health.
Learn Some Welsh At Nant Gwrtheyrn National Language Centre
Welsh is the first language of most locals on the Llŷn Peninsula, one of the main strongholds of the language around the country. You’ll encounter Welsh in most places on Llŷn, and any attempt to speak a few words of it will be warmly welcomed.
It remains one of the stronger minority languages in Europe, with around 20% of the population speaking it fluently. The tiny, remote former quarrying village of Nant Gwrtheyrn, on the north coast at the foot one of the cliffs of Yr Eifl, is a gentle introduction to the language, offering residential courses for adults wishing to learn Welsh as a second (or third, or fourth…) language.
The cottages in the village have now been turned into accommodation, and you can also stay in this wonderful place, regardless of whether you’re a Welsh learner or not. There’s also a lovely café, and a restored quarryman’s cottage which gives you a very good idea of how a family would have lived in the early 20th century.
Discover More Llŷn Peninsula Beaches At Porth Iago And Whistling Sands
The Llŷn Peninsula section of the Wales Coast Path has some of the best walks in all of Wales, not to mention some extraordinary beaches. I particularly recommend the section that heads southwest from Porthdinllaen and Morfa Nefyn as there’s superb scenery every step of the way. And with a push you can make it to Aberdaron in a day.
Heading southwest from Morfa Nefyn, there are several small coves around Tudweiliog, including Porth Towyn, Porth Cychod, with its fishermen’s shacks, and Porth Ysgaden. The first big sandy beach that you encounter is Traeth Penllech, a gorgeous spot just before the tiny harbour at Porth Colmon.
Two miles further on, you reach the glorious beach at Porth Iago, one of the best hidden gems in Wales. And a mile beyond there, Porth Oer, or Whistling Sands, is another awesome beach, in quiet hilly countryside a couple of miles north of Aberdaron, the Land’s End of North Wales.
See Also: Things To Do In Aberdaron
Glimpse – Or Catch The Boat To – Bardsey Island
Bardsey – Ynys Enlli – is one of the remotest, and most fascinating Welsh islands. It’s also one of the most difficult to reach – as I can personally testify, having not set foot there despite numerous attempts to do so.
It’s also one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Wales, the site of a monastery founded by St Cadfan in the 6th century, supposedly the burial place of 20,000 Saints. In 1119 Pope Callixtus II declared three pilgrimages to Bardsey were the spiritual equivalent of one to Rome, and it was a popular destination for pilgrims for centuries afterwards.
Little remains of the Abbey that once flourished there, but its isolation makes it a favoured place of spiritual retreat – an old friend of mine has been going there every year with a group of her friends for over 40 years. It’s also home to a colony of Atlantic grey seals and many seabirds nest there in springtime.
Boats usually depart from Porth Meudwy, but Bardsey Sound – the narrow stretch of water separating it from the mainland – can be treacherous, so sailings are sometimes cancelled (usually the day before in my experience) as a result.
The boat from Porth Meudwy takes 12 passengers at a time – and the Bardsey Boat Service website has details on how to book. Adult tickets are £50, children £25.
Visit Mighty Caernarfon Castle
Caernarfon is one of the great castles in North Wales, making up ¼ of Wales’ first UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Castles and Walled Towns of Edward I in Gwynedd.
Built by supreme military architect James of St George, Caernarfon Castle was inspired by the formidable Theodosian Walls of Constantinople. It’s such an intimidating fortress, even now 750 years after it was completed. It was built to guard the southern entrance to the Menai Strait, the narrow body of water that separates mainland Wales from the island of Anglesey.
You can reach all four World Heritage Castles from the Porthdinllaen area. Caernarfon is the closest, around 25 miles to the north. Harlech is less than an hour’s drive, Beaumaris a little more. And Conwy is only around 1 hour 20 minutes away by car.
Where Is Porthdinllaen
Porthdinllaen is one mile (1.6 km) from the seaside village of Morfa Nefyn, on the north coast of the Llŷn Peninsula in Gwynedd, North Wales.
It’s in a rural part of the country, and here are some sample distances from nearby towns and cities:
Caernarfon to Porth Dinllaen – 23 miles (37 km)
Llandudno to Porth Dinllaen – 51 miles (82 km)
Liverpool to Porth Dinllaen – 107 miles (173 km)
Manchester to Porth Dinllaen – 127 miles (204 km)
Birmingham to Porth Dinllaen – 141 miles (226 km)
London to Porth Dinllaen – 268 miles (431 km)
How To Get To Porthdinllaen
Porthdinllaen is easy to reach by car, and buses also stop in the nearby village of Morfa Nefyn. Just bear in mind one thing: you have to walk the last kilometre or so, as there is no road access to the village.
Travelling by car is far easier than using public transport on the Llŷn Peninsula.
If you’re travelling from Anglesey, the North Wales coast or northwest of England, take the A55 as far as Bangor, then the A487 to Caernarfon then the A499, which you leave at Llanaelhaearn to join the B4417 to Nefyn.
Once you’re in Nefyn, continue the extra mile to Morfa Nefyn. The Porthdinllaen car park is off Lon Golff on your right. It’s 5 for all day parking.
If you’re travelling from the Midlands, London South Wales or the South West, you’ll need to be on the A487 before you reach Porthmadog, and use the bypass to avoid the town centre. Take the A497 to Criccieth and Pwllheli, continuing on this road by taking the second exit at the roundabout as you leave the latter. The A497 continues directly to Morfa Nefyn
From the car park, walk up Lon Golff until you reach the car park, walk through the gate and you’ll see a paved path in front of you. This is the path that leads to Porthdinllaen. It continues across the golf course for around half a mile (800 metres) until you reach a turn on the right. Then it’s a short steep walk down to the village and beach.
If you’re travelling by public transport, it’s a long journey. I did it once, catching the train to the end of the Cambrian Coast line at Pwllheli and then catching the number 8 bus which runs roughly hourly – the most frequent bus service in this part of the world. It runs through Nefyn first before moving on to Morfa Nefyn.
Where To Stay Near Porthdinllaen
There is no accommodation in Porthdinllaen itself.
However, there are a few hotels around Nefyn and the north coast, and many short-term holiday lets. Here are some of the best options:
Gwesty Nanhoron Arms Hotel – great hotel in the middle of Nefyn village, spacious comfortable rooms, great food – I stayed there twice and would happily do so again
Tafarn yr Heliwr – superb pub in the centre of Nefyn, beautiful rooms, excellent food
Yr Hen Felin – The Old Mill B & B – excellent B&B in Edern village, less than two miles from Porthdinllaen
Ednyfed Apartment – highly rated accommodation very close to the centre of Nefyn, with a barbecue
And a little further afield:
Plas Dinas Country House Hotel – the former home of Lord Snowdon, one of the best country house hotels in the UK, just south of Caernarfon
Gwesty Ty Newydd Hotel – outstanding hotel overlooking Aberdaron beach, one of the best places to stay on the Llŷn.
Visiting Porthdinllaen – Final Thoughts
I hope that you’ve enjoyed this guide, and that it makes visiting Porthdinllaen easier for you. It’s a wonderful village, one that has charmed a fair few of us down the years!
If you’re thinking of visiting the Llŷn Peninsula, check out these additional articles:
Things To Do On The Llŷn Peninsula – the complete guide to the best of the Llŷn
Llŷn Peninsula beaches – from Porth Dinllaen to Portmeirion, some of the best beaches in Wales
Things To Do In Aberdaron – the wondrous Land’s End of North Wales
Things To Do In Caernarfon – there’s more to this coastal town than one of the best medieval castles on the planet
Things To Do In Criccieth – lovely beach town with a Castle and stunning mountain views
Things To Do In Portmeirion – a touch of Portofino on the edge of Snowdonia
Best Places in North Wales
Best things to do in Conwy – A stunning UNESCO Heritage town on the edge of Snowdonia National Park
Betws-y-Coed – A picturesque Welsh mountain town in the spectacular Snowdonia National Park
Things To Do In Harlech – World Heritage castle, one of the best beaches in wales, and much more
Things To Do In Llangollen – gorgeous riverside town, one of the highlights of North East Wales
Things To Do In Barmouth – if you find a more beautiful setting for a seaside town, please let me know
15 Best Villages In North Wales To Visit – Beddgelert, Betws-y-Coed and many more
North Wales Travel Guide – everything you need to know about travelling in North Wales
Anglesey
Llanddwyn Island – One of the most special of all Welsh islands
Anglesey beaches & coastline – Home to some of the best beaches in the UK
Best walks on Anglesey – Eight of the best Anglesey walks to help you discover more of this magnificent island.
Best things to do on Anglesey – the largest of Welsh Islands
More Beautiful Places to Visit in Wales
Landscapes in Wales – Breathtaking landscapes in Wales you must see
Rivers in Wales – Some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales
Lakes in Wales – Where you find some of the best views in Wales
Landmarks in Wales – famous places in Wales to Explore
Wales Bucket List – 40 Fantastic Places In Wales You Should Not Miss
Things To Do In Barmouth – if you find a more beautiful setting for a seaside town, please let me know