Things To Do In Snowdonia
From mini-Alpine peaks to romantic ruined castles, historic villages and towns to heritage railways, there are so many things to do in Snowdonia. North Wales’ only National Park, also known as Eryri, is one of the most beautiful national parks in the UK, its picturesque landscapes attracting visitors since Victorian times. If you’re thinking of making your first trip to Wales, there’s no better place to start.
I’ve visited Snowdonia hundreds of times, both in my own time and as art director for Visit Wales over more than a decade. I’ve written about 25 of the best things to do around Snowdonia, and grouped them into categories, including mountain hikes, castles, villages and towns, scenery and heritage railways.
I also suggest a few tours of the area in case that’s how you prefer to see it, and suggest places to stay near most of the attractions. I hope that you find it helpful.
Welsh and English Terms – A Note
Welsh names have started to take precedence, at least in official media, in recent years. I use the Welsh and English terms interchangeably throughout the article as the English names will be more familiar to you – but it’s good to use the Welsh words when you’re there, we Welsh greatly appreciate it.
Snowdonia – Eryri
Snowdonia National Park – Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri
Mount Snowdon – Yr Wyddfa
Lake – Llyn (pronounced ‘hlin’)
Castle – Castell
River – Afon (the single f is sounded like a ‘v’, and the a like the firs A in Adam, so ‘av-on’)
Valley – Cwm
Things To Do In Snowdonia – Mountains, Hikes And Activities
Climb Tryfan – The Toughest Mountain In Wales
Everyone who visits Snowdonia heads straight for the highest mountain, Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon in English) so my first suggestion is to go somewhere completely different.
Tryfan is the hardest mountain in Wales to climb. It’s a steep rocky eminence looming high above Llyn Ogwen lake and the Valley, and one of the highlights of the A5 road trip through North Wales. And if you park near where the road passes beneath it, you could be forgiven for thinking,”How on earth am I going to climb THAT?” Before continuing, at this point I have to say that if you are a beginner, do not attempt to climb Tryfan – you need to be an experienced mountain walker for this one.
I suggest beginning further along the A5, parking at Idwal Cottage. From there, head to Llyn Bochlwyd, a mountain lake, Continue above the eastern shore of the lake, with Tryfan still on your left. There are no waymarked trails on Tryfan, but you’ll eventually reach a slate drystone wall which leads part of the way to the summit.
The final section, initially following the wall, is the hardest part. You will need to scramble numerous times along this route, hauling yourself up sections of the south ridge with both hands, with long drops in places.
The summit of Tryfan is renowned for two stones, Adam and Eve, and some climbers jump the five feet from one to the other. I stood on one but not for one millisecond did I contemplate the jump. I think it’s utter insanity to do so. Enjoy the view and descend safely.
Where To Stay: Ty’n Y Coed Inn, Capel Curig – traditional Welsh country inn on the A5, a short drive from Tryfan and the Ogwen Valley
Canoe Or Kayak On Bala Lake (Llyn Tegid)
Bala Lake is the largest in Wales, and one of the most beautiful. It’s in the southern part of Snowdonia, in the shadow of the relatively unexplored Arenig Fawr, and the gentler side of Wales’ watersports capital.
The lake can get windy, but is one of the best places in Wales for canoeing and kayaking. I haven’t tried it myself, but it’s an extraordinary place to learn or to get some more paddling time. The scenery is stunning, as the image above shows!
A friend of mine once went on a two-day crash-course, with a gentle half-day paddle on Bala Lake one afternoon, and a trip to the National Whitewater Rafting Centre at Canolfan Tryweryn, just east of Bala on the A4212. This is at the other end of the scale, a hugely popular adrenaline rush if you’re up for it.
Where To Stay: Plas yn Dre – 5-star guest house in the centre of Bala
Climb Cadair Idris, One Of The Great Mountains Of Wales
Cadair Idris – the Seat of Idris the Giant – dominates southern Snowdonia, looming high above the town of Dolgellau and the Afon Mawddach. Like Yr Wyddfa to the north, it’s only a few miles from the sea, so fairly long ascents are required to the summit area.
It’s said that if you fall asleep on this awesome mountain, you’ll awake either a poet or mad – I’m not sure about both, perhaps?! What I can tell you is that climbing it is a wonderful workout, and that there’ll be a small fraction of the number of fellow hikers there compared to Yr Wyddfa.
There are three paths to the summit, Penygadair, though I only recommend two of them. The Minffordd Path is the route I’ve used, from the south side of the mountain. The path runs along the ridge above Llyn Cau, a stunning glacial lake, before the final push to the summit ridge and Penygadair.
I haven’t used it, but the longer Pony Path, from the north side of the mountain, is a better option for families, There are long well-maintained step sections and only a couple of short scrambles.
I don’t recommend the Fox’s Path as this is a long hike up an unstable, eroded scree slope. It’s difficult enough to ascend – as for descending it, forget it.
Where To Stay: Gwesty Minffordd Hotel – beautiful centuries-old hotel near the start of the Minffordd Path, the closest hotel to Cadair Idris
Roam The Remote Rhinog Mountains
The Rhinogydd (sometimes Anglicised to Rhinogs) are the least-explored and hardest mountains to hike in Eryri. They occupy the remote terrain between coastal Ardudwy – between Barmouth and Harlech – and Trawsfynydd Lake, just a few miles inland.
The easiest routes into the Rhinogydd are minor roads running off the A496 coast road. The village of Llanbedr, three miles south of Harlech, is a good starting point, from which you can drive most of the way to Llyn Cwm Bychan. Once past the lake, the ‘Roman Steps’ – a medieval packhorse route – take you towards Rhinog Fawr, which I once conquered the same day as its close neighbour to the south, Rhinog Fach.
These mountains aren’t particularly high – around 2,400 feet – but they are tough and demanding. The area is made up of hard rock, which is particularly tough on the ankles. The first rule of the Rhinogs is that you come well-equipped, with very sturdy hiking boots and hiking poles. I wouldn’t think about returning without wearing my 20-year-old Scarpas for this terrain.
What you get in return for a little hardship is a wondrous remote mountain range largely to yourself. You could tackle a few of the summits in a day (with Y Llethr as well as Rhinog Fawr and Fach).
Where To Stay: Victoria Inn, Llanbedr – an absolutely gorgeous centuries-old pub in the centre of the village
Things To Do in Snowdonia – Heritage and Scenic Railways
Take The Snowdon Mountain Railway To The Summit Of Yr Wyddfa
Having enjoyed many of the Swiss Alpine railways, I have to say that the Snowdon Mountain Railway is up there with the best in Europe. The journey from Llanberis takes an hour to the summit of Yr Wyddfa, climbing to 3,560 feet above sea level, with, weather permitting, breathtaking views along the way.
Hikers tend to avoid the Mountain Railway but I think it’s something everyone should do once. You might be getting to the summit without putting in the legwork, but would you live your whole life without enjoying a sinfully calorific piece of cake? At £48 for peak time adult return ticket, and £38 per child, it’s a real treat, especially if the weather gods are with you on the day.
Ironically I’ve fared better with the weather when hiking up the mountain than when taking the train, but it’s all down to luck. One time I was up there I could barely see the boots on my feet through the mist. Within thirty seconds I felt the heat of the sun on my shoulders, and the clouds in front of me cleared. I could clearly see Holyhead Mountain, around thirty miles (50 km) to the north. Within thirty seconds it had disappeared in the mist. Five minutes later I could see land beyond Anglesey, which could only be the Isle of Man.
The journey up the mountain takes an hour, following the same route as the Llanberis Path (which takes between two and a half and three hours to hike). One of the best sections is around the third stop Clogwyn, from which there are stunning views over the Llanberis Path (on your left as you travel up the mountain).
The summit of Snowdon is one of the most overtouristed places in Wales. If more visitors explored a few different mountains, they’d find plenty more places just as beautiful. Let’s hope they do.
Take The Train Across The Mawddach Estuary At Barmouth Bridge
Travelling in Wales by train has its pros and cons. The more demanding consumer might complain about slow and infrequent services, and lack of coverage in large areas. All partly true, but it’s also a wonderful way to enjoy this most scenic of countries, and the most scenic journey in the country is, I’d say the Cambrian Coast service between Machynlleth and Pwllheli.
This service (make sure you’re in the correct carriages, as the train splits in Machynlleth) chugs along the Dovey estuary to Penhelig and Aberdovey before turning the corner of the coast and heading north up the Cardigan Bay coastline. If you can, find yourself a window seat on the right in the direction of travel. You’ll enjoy wonderful views out to sea all the way, and the sight of the Dysynni Valley inland is sure to turn a few heads.
But the highlight is the long slow pull across the Mawddach estuary – I’d say it’s the most beautiful in Wales, and Victorian writer John Ruskin, suggesting it was the most beautiful he had ever seen.
After passing through Fairbourne and Morfa Mawddach stations, the train nudges across the 19th-century wooden viaduct of Barmouth Bridge. Look inland, to the Cadair Idris massif on the right and the foothills of the Rhinog range on the left, and savour it.
Catch A Narrow Gauge Train On The Ffestiniog Railway
The Ffestiniog Railway – between Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog – is one of the most famous Great Little Trains of Wales. And its 13-mile journey is one of the most beautiful train journeys in the country. You can buy a return ticket, or use it as a link to the mainline Conwy Valley line from Blaenau to Llandudno. It was opened in the 19th century to carry slate to the nearest point of export at Porthmadog, and has long been used as a tourist attraction.
I’ve always loved this journey because of the contrasts along the way. You start at sea level in Porthmadog, and gradually chug across the Cob causeway, with (weather permitting once again) a stunning view from the left side of the train towards Snowdon and the surrounding peaks.
The train soon begins its climb, first to Minffordd (from where you can alight for a 20-minute walk to Portmeirion) and then Tan-y-Bwlch, passing close to the forest lake of Llyn Mair. It then passes through more open, rugged countryside, and after the Dduallt loop, runs alongside Tanygrisiau reservoir before the final run into the quarrying town of Blaenau Ffestiniog.
Where To Stay: Yr Hen Fecws – excellent restaurant with rooms, one of my regular boltholes in North Wales for many years, highly recommended
Things To See In Snowdonia – The Best Scenic Views
Enjoy The View Of Snowdon From Llynnau Mymbyr
It’s one of the best views in Snowdonia, and for me, probably the definitive view of the whole of Eryri.
Just after the village of Capel Curig and the Plas y Brenin Mountaineering Centre, there’ a very large car parking area on the A4086 as you head west. If the weather’s clear, you’ll immediately see why.
Walk down to the shore of one of the first of two lakes, Llynnau Mymbyr, and take it all in. This is what’s called the Snowdon Horseshoe with Snowdon – Yr Wyddfa, the highest peak in Wales, the third from the right. To its right are the jagged peaks of Carnedd Ugain and Crib Goch, and to its left the gentler proposition of Y Lliwedd.
There are many more great Snowdon viewpoints requiring greater effort (but similar reward) including the ascents of Moel Siabod (immediately to the south of the Mymbyr lakes) and Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach. But this viewpoint, being the easiest and most accessible, is always going to be many people’s abiding image of Snowdonia.
Discover Stunning Llynnau Cregennen Lakes
They are among the most beautiful lakes in Wales, but their remoteness and (relative) difficulty of access means that relatively few visitors to Eryri get to discover them.
Llynnau Cregennen are hidden away on a narrow shelf of upland between the Mawddach estuary (to the immediate north) and the foothills of the Cadair Idris to the immediate south.
Access is either from the town of Dolgellau via a minor road, or another minor road off the A493 near the village of Arthog. If you do take this road (as I have several times, as it saves you ten miles or more) you’ll have to open and close four sets of farm gates along the way. The only other traffic on the road is likely to be the local flock of sheep.
The first sight you get of the lakes is when you’re right on top of them. Park up, and climb the rise next to the toilet block for a stunning view over the Mawddach estuary and Barmouth Bridge. Walk around the lakes, starting with a climb towards the rocky summit of Bryn Brith for an incredible view of the twin lakes and the steep scree slope of Tyrau Mawr. There’s also an ancient standing stone on the footpath between the lakes.
It’s one of the most beautiful places in Wales.
Where To Stay: Abergwynant Farm Holidays – cottages and apartments in stunning countryside, a short easy drive (without farm gates) to Llynnau Cregennen
Swallow Falls – One Of The Most Famous Waterfalls In Wales
Snowdonia’s discovery as a tourist destination in the 19th century was partly down to an widespread appreciation of the Picturesque. Eryri had it all, from rugged mini-Alpine mountains to serene lakes, and the forested area around Betws-y-Coed with its fast-flowing rivers and the area’s most famous waterfall, Swallow Falls (Rhaeadr Ewynnol in Welsh).
Swallow Falls is on the main A5 road through the National Park, and the whole place is a bit of a Victorian time-capsule. The recently refurbished Swallow Falls Inn is a classic 19th-century coaching inn, and once you’ve parked, you enter via a cramped cash-only turnstile (£2). It’s a few metres’ walk to the first viewpoint, the Afon Llugwy making a terrific noise as it hurtles down the tiers of rock.
A flight of steep steps follows the course of the river to the lower tier of the Falls, but if you have impaired mobility this would be very difficult for you.
There is also a walk to Swallow Falls from Betws-y-Coed via the Miners Bridge which takes you the ‘back’ way to the Falls. It follows a minor road part of the way, with half a mile extra at the end, with a walk down to Ty Hyll (the ‘Ugly House’) and along the pavement on the main A5 to the Falls.
Llyn Crafnant – A Breathtaking Hidden Mountain Lake
This lake is one of the hidden gems in Snowdonia, high up above the Conwy Valley and village of Trefriw. It’s one of those places that scarcely gets a mention, but it’s one of the most beautiful lakes in Wales, well worth the short, steep uphill climb up the minor road from Trefriw.
It’s one of a pair of lakes in this remote corner of North Wales. Its partner is Llyn Geirionydd, which has an entirely different feel, surrounded by forestry planted in the mid-20th century, and the only lake in Eryri where power boats and water skiing are allowed.
I used to visit these two lakes regularly as a teenager on family holidays staying with relatives near Llandudno. We only visited Llyn Crafnant a couple of times back then, but on arriving there I immediately found one of my soul-comforting refuges. I’ll always remember the first time I saw the Carneddau mountains at the other end of the lake, reflected in the still water as if it was glass.
It’s one of those places where you could sit all day with a flask of tea or coffee, perhaps enjoying a picnic there. One of the best places to visit in North Wales.
Where To Stay: Crafnant House Bed & Breakfast – Trefriw guest house with exceptional reviews
Things To Do In Snowdonia – The Best Scenic Drives
A Snowdonia Road Trip
It’s well worth taking a day (or more out of your schedule to indulge in a Snowdonia road trip, exploring some of the most scenic drives in Wales along the way. I’ve travelled these roads countless times, and still get the same thrill doing so as I did the first time well over 40 years ago.
My article (link in the paragraph above) on road itineraries in Snowdonia outlines four possible routes. If you have one day spare, I suggest starting out in Llanberis, climbing the A4086 Llanberis Pass, continuing to Capel Curig and the viewpoint of Snowdon from Llynnau Mymbyr to pause for a while. From there continue to the junction with the A5 into the Ogwen Valley, passing Tryfan and Llyn Ogwen lake along the way. Turn back at the Idwal Cottage car park, but stop for a few minutes to take in the view down Nant Ffrancon valley before you head back.
Once you’re back in Capel Curig, double back to the Llynnau Mymbyr viewpoint, and continue left down towards Beddgelert and Porthmadog on the A498. There are several stopping points here for sublime views of Llyn Gwynant – and the view from the shore of the lake is wonderful too. From there, continue to Beddgelert, and down the A4085 along the western flank of Snowdon.
Once you reach Rhyd Ddu, you can either proceed north along the shore of Llyn Cwellyn towards Caernarfon, or take the B4418 west into the Nantlle Valley, where you get a stunning view of the west face of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) from the shore of Llyn Nantlle Uchaf.
Tours: If you don’t drive, this scenic tour of Snowdonia from Llandudno takes you everywhere I describe above.
The Drive Up Bwlch Yr Oerddrws Pass Into The National Park
The A470 road trip takes you from Cardiff Bay in the south to Llandudno seafront in the north, an epic traverse of the entire country that you could complete in less than five hours or a whole week. It’s fascinating to see the changes in the landscape as you travel north, and around the village of Dinas Mawddwy the valley sides suddenly become steeper and higher.
The road out of Dinas Mawddwy remains fairly flat for a few miles before starting a gradual steep climb. This is Bwlch yr Oerddrws, the Pass of the Cold Door. On your left you’ll see the distinctive plaque with the peaks, signifying that you have entered Eryri, the mountainous North West of Wales. As you clear the summit of the Bwlch, the eastern flank of Cadair Idris rises before you. There’s so much about Wales that I love in this place.
Where To Stay: The Firecat Country House Guesthouse, Mallwyd – 15th-century house , historic furnishings, excellent food
Venture To Southern Snowdonia And The Dysynni Valley
The Dysynni Valley is one of the least-explored corners of Snowdonia, but this remote valley in the shadow of Cadair Idris deserves at least a couple of days of your time.
The journey of the Afon Dysynni from source to sea is, like many rivers in Wales, short but spectacular. It flows from Llyn Mwyngil – also known as Tal-y-llyn Lake – through the World Heritage-listed village of Abergynolwyn, before moving from its original course to a beautiful valley best-known for Bird Rock, a former sea cliff now four miles inland where cormorants (normally a sea bird) still nest.
The Talyllyn Railway, one of the great narrow-gauge trains of Wales (and like Abergynolwyn, World Heritage-listed) was originally built to carry slate from the quarries to the coast at Tywyn. The Reverend W Awdry, author of the Thomas the Tank Engine books, volunteered on the Railway in the 1950s, and it inspired some of his writing and characters later in his career.
North of Abergynolwyn, the Dysynni Valley is very different in character. As you reach the valley by road, the steep Bird Rock (Craig yr Aderyn) is to your right. Follow the road right and you’ll eventually reach Castell Y Bere. This was one of several castles built by Prince Llywelyn Fawr (Llywelyn the Great) of Gwynedd – most likely in the 1220s. It was captured by the English in the wake of the 1282 defeat of the Welsh by Edward I, and later attacked and burned by Welsh rebels. It has stood in ruin for well over 700 years.
There’s a wonderful viewpoint on the north side of the valley, reached by a minor road, with a superb outlook over Bird Rock and the mountains to the south. This road eventually takes you to the stunning lakes at Llynnau Cregennen. Follow the right turn for Dolgellau, then the third left turn for the lakes.
Where To Stay: Tynycornel Hotel – one of the best-situated hotels in Wales, in magnificent location on the corner of stunning Tal-y-llyn Lake
Places To Visit In Snowdonia – Villages And Towns
Visit Beddgelert – One Of The Loveliest Villages In Wales
Beddgelert is one of the loveliest villages in North Wales, a postcard-perfect little place with a few streets of stone cottages surrounded by the highest mountains in Wales, with a beautiful river and the odd steam train passing through it.
The village’s name means ‘Grave of Gelert’, after a faithful dog mistakenly slain by Prince Llywelyn ap Iorwerth . He thought the dog had killed his son, when he had actually saved him. It’s similar to a few other folk tales around Europe and beyond, and is likely another one of these. The ‘Grave’ just south of the village dates from 1812 (a mere 570 years or so after the event), and was the work of a local pub landlord keen to attract tourists.
It’s more likely that the Gelert in the village’s name may have been a local Celtic saint – not to be confused with the St Gellért who was bishop of Budapest.
Beddgelert is a lovely base for exploring Snowdonia, with two of its most beautiful lakes – Llyn Dinas and Llyn Gwynant – both a short drive away up the A498.
The Welsh Highland Railway also passes through Beddgelert, continuing down the forested Aberglaslyn Gorge on its way to Porthmadog.
Where to Stay: Prince Llewelyn Hotel – one of the picturesque old buildings in most photos of Beddgelert, overlooking the bridge and Afon Glaslyn
Visit Portmeirion – A Touch Of The Italian Riviera In North Wales
The Italianate fantasy village of Portmeirion is a little bit of an outlier in North Wales, utterly unlike anywhere else nearby. Portmeirion was created by architect Clough Williams-Ellis as a holiday village on the one of the most scenic estuaries in North Wales – the Afon Dwyryd – with a difference.
He was partly inspired by the Ligurian village of Portofino, so some of the buildings (including the Campanile, or belltower) he designed himself, while others were ‘rescued’ from likely demolition.
The result is a wonderful place to escape the world. You can visit by day or stay in Portmeirion overnight, a magical experience. You can stay in. any of the cottages or suites in the village, or indeed either of the two Hotels (the riverside Hotel Portmeirion and Castell Deudraeth, on the hill near the entrance to the village).
It’s quirky, bright and colourful, and was also the setting for 1960s TV series The Prisoner. The gardens are also exquisite, and the estuary at low tide is a beautiful place to wander across the sands.
Staying in Portmeirion: Portmeirion Village and Castell Deudraeth – click on this link to book either of the hotels or any of the accommodation in the village
See Also: 11 Best Things To Do In Portmeirion
Stay In A B&B In Betws-y-Coed
The popular village of Betws-y-Coed is one of the main gateways to Snowdonia, but it’s very different in character from the rest of the National Park. It’s surrounded by the Gwydyr Forest, which has plenty to attract you from hikes to biking trails and even zip-wire rides through the trees. Betws grew in the 19th century around an artist’ colony which initially was based around the Royal Oak Hotel. Other hotels opened up, but Betws-y-Coed has become renowned over the years for its many B&Bs.
I’ve stayed in many of these before eventually settling on one (Dolgethin) run by my dear late friend Ruth. There are around twenty of them on the main street, Holyhead Road, alone, with more on the side streets and across the river. Of the others I’ve stayed in, I’d recommend Afon View, a 4-star guest house just around the corner from the station.
See Also: Things To Do In Betws-y-Coed – our guide to the gateway to Snowdonia
Where To Go In Snowdonia – Castles and Historic Sites
Explore World Heritage Harlech Castle
Harlech Castle is the southernmost of the four UNESCO World Heritage-listed Castles of Edward I in Gwynedd, a formidable fortress with perhaps the most spectacular and commanding setting of them all.
It was built by the great military architect James of St George to secure the southern coastal area of Gwynedd for Edward I following his subjugation of the Welsh in 1282. In those days it would have been even more imposing, on a clifftop. However, the coastline has extended a mile to the west, leaving it stranded inland, but it still makes an outstanding observation point, along the coast and north to the mountains of Eryri.
The Castle has been greatly improved in recent years, with a new footbridge making access much easier, and the former hotel opposite (one of my regular resting places in North Wales) now converted into an excellent visitor centre. The highlight is undoubtedly the wall walk, from where (on a clear day) you’ll enjoy one of the best views from a Castle in Europe.
Although Harlech Castle would have been an intimidating fortress, it wasn’t impregnable. Rebel Welsh Prince Owain Glyndwr captured it in 1404, holding onto it until 1409 when finally forced out by the Welsh-born future King Henry V of England.
Harlech Castle was also besieged during the Wars of the Roses later in the 15th century, inspiring the Welsh rugby anthem Men of Harlech. It also withstood a three-year siege during the Civil war in the 1640, and was the last Royalist stronghold in Wales to fall to the Parliamentarians.
Where To Stay: Castle Cottage Inn – outstanding place to stay 100 metres from the Castle, rooms with view of it and the best restaurant for miles around
See Also: 22 Best Things To Do In Harlech
Visit Mighty Conwy Castle And The Gorgeous Conwy Valley
Conwy, one of the most beautiful historic towns in the UK, is on the eastern fringe of Eryri, and the Conwy River lies just beyond the eastern boundary of the National Park for much of its course from Betws-y-Coed to the sea.
Conwy is part of Wales’ first UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Castle and Town Walls, and the Castle is both one of the most beautiful and forbidding Welsh Castles, its eight towers and complex interior the work of James of St George. Conwy is also surrounded by a circuit of town walls over a kilometre long, and you can also walk along most of these.
Within the town, don’t miss Plas Mawr, the finest Tudor-period (16th-century) townhouse in the UK, which has been kept much as it would have appeared soon after it was built. Down on Conwy Quay, take a few minutes (or even perhaps one minute) to visit the Smallest House in Great Britain, enjoy the superb view to the castle, or head out on one of the boat trips into Conwy Bay. Some of these even run as far as Puffin Island, just off the coast of Anglesey.
Where To Stay: The Castle Hotel, Conwy – historic 300-year-old coaching inn on the High Street, the best hotel in town with superb food
See Also: 11 Best Things To Do In Conwy
Discover Welsh Princes’ Castles At Dolwyddelan And Dolbadarn
The most famous castles in North Wales are undoubtedly the four World Heritage-listed ‘Iron Ring’ castles built by Edward I after 1282. But it’s equally worth seeking out some of the smaller castles of the Welsh princes, built to defend their mountain strongholds from the English invaders.
The two Welsh princes’ castles within Eryri are at Dolwyddelan, in the Lledr valley, and Dolbadarn, just outside Llanberis.
Dolwyddelan Castle is a great stop if you’re doing the A470 road trip, perched directly above the main north to south Wales road. A single battlemented tower now survives, along with some foundations, and it’s a superb vantage point that would have helped control the Lledr valley, and been difficult to capture on the high ground on which it stands.
The best way to appreciate Dolwyddelan Castle is to spend a day or so walking the mountains around it. If you’re an avid photographer and have a good 400mm lens you could get some extraordinary shots of the Castle nestled among the peaks. I’ve always meant to go back for a day or two’s étude of it, and hope to find the time soon.
Dolbadarn Castle is located on high ground between Llyn Padarn and Llyn Peris, the two lakes next to Llanberis at the foot of the Snowdon massif and the Llanberis Pass. Like Dolwyddelan, it is believed to have been built by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn Fawr or Llywelyn the Great) around 1220-1230, and it’s one of the first built in Wales. Prior to this, the Welsh hadn’t built stone fortresses, which would probably have been due to financial constraints. However, the encroachment of the English from the east meant that some Welsh princes opted to build castles to counter this threat.
Dolbadarn was the subject of one of JMW Turner’s paintings of Wales in 1799, a brooding, backlit drama typical of this great painter’s work.
Where To Stay: Royal Victoria Hotel Snowdonia – fine historic late Georgian building which once hosted the future Queen Victoria, in a superb location near Dolbadarn Castle and Llanberis village
Discover The World Heritage Welsh Slate Landscape
Wales’ fourth World Heritage Site was inscribed by UNESCO in 2021, a recognition of the unique industry that grew in the area in the 19th century, one with a predominantly Welsh-speaking workforce.
The Welsh Slate Landscape is spread over six areas of Gwynedd, with the main concentration around the peaks of Snowdonia. The Welsh National Slate Museum in Llanberis is an excellent place to start, with demonstrations of the art of slate splitting, and the opportunity to climb the mountain to explore some of the old slate workings.
The quarrying town of Blaenau Ffestiniog is another great place to explore, with Llechwedd Slate Caverns an evocative series of floodlit underground cathedrals. Some of the slate landscape around the town has been put to a new use, with high-difficulty mountain biking tracks and zip-wiring above among the options for the adrenaline seeker. The first zip wire ride in the area is above the vast Penrhyn Quarry in Bethesda.
Some of the other sites are still largely deserted, from Cwmorthin and Rhosydd above Blaenau Ffestiniog to Moel Tryfan and the Nantlle Valley, a few miles to the west of Snowdon. Two of the narrow-gauge railways built for the slate industry, the Ffestiniog and Talyllyn railways, are also included in the site, as are Penrhyn Castle, a neo-Norman pile built by the owner of the quarry of the same name, and Bangor University, which was founded by slate quarry workers to give their children a better chance of an education than they had themselves.
I’m privileged to have worked on the successful UNESCO bid, shooting and directing photography for it in 2011, and the decade wait was worth it to finally see it get due recognition.
See Also: Things To Do in Blaenau Ffestiniog
Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant – One Of The Most Fascinating Historic Houses In Wales
This amazing 500-year-old house high in the mountains was the birthplace of William Morgan, who grew up to become Bishop of St Asaph, the diocese covering North East Wales. Morgan is, however, more famous for completing the first translation of the Bible into Welsh, which he accomplished in 1588.
The house – essentially a large stone cottage – is in a remote valley reached via the village of Penmachno, a few miles southeast of Betws-y-Coed. Houses of this age aren’t common in Wales, and the interior has been kept as similar as possible to how it would have been during Morgan’s lifetime. There’s also a large collection of Bibles in many languages from all around the world.
When I last visited a few years ago, I was hugely impressed by the guide at Tŷ Mawr Wybrnant, and I told him he is one of the best guides I have encountered in around 40 countries that I’ve visited. I know through the grapevine that he is now retired, and I hope that whoever has taken over from him can bring this remarkable place to life like he did.
Getting there: by car only via Penmachno.
Snowdonia Beaches And Coast
A Day By The Seaside In Barmouth
Barmouth is, hands down, one of the best seaside towns in Wales. It has a fantastic beach – one of the best on the Cardigan Bay coast – but that’s just the start of it.
Barmouth is at its liveliest over the spring and summer, when visitors flock to the beach, and the seasonal funfair opens up. There’s also the usual seaside treats including fish and chips, candy floss and tooth decay-inducing rock.
Then there’s old Barmouth, the stately stone houses and quaint cottages on the narrow back streets hidden away behind the side streets. Continue here until you reach the top of Gloddfa Road and an area of open ground. This is Dinas Oleu, the Fortress of Light, a viewpoint over the Mawddach estuary. It was the first piece of land donated to the National Trust – by Miss Fanny Talbot – in 1895.
If you walk to the southern end of Barmouth Beach, you’ll see what I’ve always considered the jewel in Barmouth’s crown – the Mawddach estuary. Beyond the harbour and Barmouth Bridge, Tyrau Mawr and, in the distance, Cadair Idris dominate the view. A sublime place.
Where To Stay – The Fanny Talbot – Barmouth’s second 5-star, small hotel right in the middle of town, and five minutes’ walk from the beach
See Also: 14 Best Things To Do In Barmouth
The View Of Harlech Beach from Good God Corner
As you drive north along the A496 road from Barmouth, just past Llanfair Slate Caverns, you’ll need to be at the ready. You’ll pass the turn for Llandanwg Beach on your left, then you’ll be greeted with one of the most beautiful views in Wales, with the long golden sweep of Harlech Beach below you, and the peaks of Eryri in a row behind it. There’s a layby just after, and I suggest that you do yourself a favour and pull over for a fee minutes.
I’ve travelled this road 50 times or more, and knowing what’s coming, have a great tingle of anticipation before rounding the corner to see this view again, feeling an immense rush of dopamine as I first see it.
It was only a few years ago, that, researching another feature, I came across a name for this section of road that I hadn’t seen before: Good God Corner. How wonderfully apt. I had thought something very similar every time I’d seen it.
Incidentally, the path down the field with the view continues down the hill, across the railway line, and onto the southern end of magical Harlech Beach, one of the best beaches in North Wales.
The Wales Coast Path Above Aberdovey
The estuary of the Dovey (spelt Dyfi in Welsh) is an enormous expanse of shifting tidal sands, with dunes and vast beaches on either side. But the Wales Coast Path Aberdovey section bypasses all this flatness, heading for the steep hills above this beautiful little coastal town.
I once spent a summer’s day exploring this glorious stretch of the Path, and saw about a dozen people all day. You could start at Machynlleth, though beginning at Pennal is more rewarding. It’s known for two very different reasons. Welsh rebel Prince Owain Glyndwr composed the Pennal Letter to Charles VI of France setting out his plans for an independent Wales. And Robert Plant and Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin had an extended stay at Bron-yr-Aur cottage near the village, where they worked on various compositions.
The Coast Path (though inland) gets more interesting beyond the village, gradually climbing to the ridge on the north side of the estuary. It’s a short detour from the path to Llyn Barfog (pronounced barr-vog – its name means ‘Bearded Lake’) where king Arthur is said to have killed the Afanc, a monster said to live in its waters.
Back on the Coast Path, the views over the estuary towards Ynyslas dunes and inland over Cwm Maethlon are wonderful. You can also spot Bardsey Island – Ynys Enlli – and the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula between the hills, thirty miles away across Cardigan Bay.
The Path then heads downhill into Aberdovey, before heading north along a much flatter section towards Tywyn.
Where To Stay: Trefeddian Hotel – one of the best hotels in Mid Wales, just north of the beach, superb coastal views
See Also: Things To Do In Aberdovey
Things To Do In Snowdonia – Final Thoughts
I hope that you’ve enjoyed this article, and that you’ve found something here that appeals to you. It’s a stunning part of the world, one I’m privileged to have seen in great detail over many years, and everyone I’ve ever met who has been blown away bv it as much as I have.
I have written extensively about the region and here is a selection of my North Wales articles to peruse for further inspiration:
The Best Of North Wales
North Wales Travel Guide – everything you need to know about travelling in North Wales
Best Places To Visit in North Wales – Snowdonia, Anglesey, the Llŷn Peninsula and more
17 Best Hotels In Snowdonia – from. country houses to a famous mountaineers’ bolthole and more
15 Best Villages In North Wales To Visit – Beddgelert, Betws-y-Coed and many more
20 Best Castles In North Wales – from the World Heritage Castles of Edward I to the mountain fortresses of the Welsh Princes
Things To Do In Caernarfon – there’s more to this coastal town than one of the best medieval castles on the planet
Things To Do In Llandudno – the complete guide to the Queen of Welsh Seaside Resorts
The Isle of Anglesey
Llanddwyn Island – One of the most special of all Welsh islands
Anglesey beaches & coastline – Home to some of the best beaches in the UK
Best things to do on Anglesey – the largest of Welsh Islands
Llŷn Peninsula
Things To Do In The Llyn Peninsula – complete guide to this gorgeous part of Wales
Llŷn Peninsula beaches – from Porth Dinllaen to Portmeirion, some of the best beaches in Wales
Visiting Porthdinllaen – the stunning fishing hamlet with one of the best beach pubs in Europe
Things To Do In Aberdaron – the wondrous Land’s End of North Wales
Things To Do In Criccieth – lovely beach town with a Castle and stunning mountain views
Things To Do In Portmeirion – a touch of Portofino on the edge of Snowdonia
North East Wales
Things To Do In Llangollen – gorgeous riverside town, one of the highlights of North East Wales
More Beautiful Places to Visit in Wales
Best Seaside Towns In Wales – Llandudno, Tenby, Barmouth and many more
Landscapes in Wales – Breathtaking landscapes in Wales you must see
Rivers in Wales – Some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales
Lakes in Wales – Where you find some of the best views in Wales
Landmarks in Wales – famous places in Wales to Explore
Wales Bucket List – 40 Fantastic Places In Wales You Should Not Miss