Rouen is the capital of Normandy, little over an hour from Paris, yet still feels off the beaten path. You wonder how. Exploring its gorgeous medieval Old Town and visiting the Cathedral that inspired Claude Monet are among the best things to do in Rouen.
And somehow you get to visit one of the most beautiful cities in France without the crowds you often find elsewhere. I’ve visited Rouen many times over more than 40 years, and adore the old city.
Many know it from school history lessons, as it’s where French heroine Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. Art lovers are familiar with the city because Impressionist painter Claude Monet made a series of over 30 canvases of Rouen Cathedral.
And there’s plenty more to see besides. My guide to Rouen covers all of this, as well as places to visit nearby in Normandy. I hope you find it helpful. Enjoy!
Visit Rouen Cathedral
Rouen Cathedral is one of the great Gothic cathedrals of France. It’s an astounding building, so vast that you have to climb a nearby hill (or stay in a Rouen hotel with a superb window view) to see it in its entirety. For a few years in the 19th century it was the tallest building in the world, and it was also a great inspiration to Impressionist artist Claude Monet (see the following section for more on this aspect).
A church was founded in the vicinity as early as the 3rd century AD, but what you see today was built from the 12th century onwards. The oldest parts are the Tour Saint-Romain and the nave and chancel.
It has been added to many times over the centuries. The Tour de Beurre (‘Butter Tower’) at the southwest corner of the church was built in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. However, it weakened the rest of the west front, leading to a huge rebuild of the whole side of the building.
The Cathedral has long been one of the most famous landmarks in France. Its soaring iron spire was completed in 1876, replacing a fallen one from the Renaissance period. For four years it was the world’s tallest building, until it was surpassed by the twin spires of Cologne Cathedral in 1880.
Several notable tombs can be seen in the Cathedral, including the reconstructed tomb of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy. The heart of English King Richard I (Richard the Lionheart, or Richard Coeur de Lion) is also buried in the Cathedral.
The Cathedral is open daily from 9.00 am to 7.00 pm, except Mondays, when it’s open from 2.00 pm to 7.00 pm.
Rouen Cathedral West Front – One Of Monet’s Main Inspirations
Impressionist painter Claude Monet lived a short distance away from Rouen in Giverny, and the west front of the Cathedral inspired him to paint a series showing the building in different light. He painted over thirty in total, between 1892 and 1893, and later worked on them at Giverny.
Monet mainly concentrated on the central part of the west front of the Cathedral, showing the rose window and portals, but little of the towers either side. My guess is that he probably chose not to depict the whole of the façade because it’s too vast. Sometimes focusing on a part of a building makes for a better composition than trying to include everything – the same applies in photography!
One of the best examples from the series is the pictured Rouen Cathedral: Setting Sun (Symphony In Grey and Pink) which can be seen in the National Museum in my hometown, Cardiff. Five paintings from the series are held in the Musee d’Orsay in Paris.
One of the best things to do in Rouen is stopping at the Place de la Cathédrale late in the afternoon. From around 4-5 pm, grab a takeaway coffee and watch the play of light on the west front for a while.
Old Town – Vieux Rouen
Rouen was the first (albeit restored) medieval city I ever visited, and it left a very powerful impression. The streets are lined with hundreds of beautiful half-timbered houses, not to mention stunning Gothic churches.
I’ve always thought of Rouen as a benchmark when it comes to medieval towns and cities in France and across Europe. After over 40 years I can only think of a handful that come close to Rouen for their medieval architecture – Troyes and Rennes in France, and Quedlinburg and Goslar in Germany are among the best.
Yet Rouen doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. I think it’s one of the most underrated cities in Europe, and easily one of the most beautiful cities in France. Some of the most beautiful houses and streets are around the Cathedral and Saint-Maclou church just to the east. Rue du Gros Horloge is gorgeous, and don’t miss Rue Damiette, just north of Saint-Maclou, where the medieval houses beautifully frame the central tower of the Abbey of Saint-Ouen.
Gros Horloge (Great Clock)
One of the main landmarks in Rouen is the gorgeous Gros Horloge. This 14th-century astronomical clock was moved to its present position above an archway in 1529, and its golden face – showing a shining golden sun – was added at the same time.
It’s one of the oldest astronomical clocks in Europe, pre-dating the famous Prague Astronomical Clock by around twenty years.
Aitre St Maclou
The Aitre Saint-Maclou is one of the most fascinating things to see in Rouen. It’s an unusual galleried former cemetery, originally opened in the mid-14th century to accommodate the remains of thousands of locals who succumbed to the bubonic plague, or Black Death.
The site was expanded over the following centuries to accommodate more dead. Two-storey galleries were around a central square, serving the purpose of an ossuary, where thousands of people’s bones were deposited.
The bones were removed in the 18th century, but many traces of the Aitre’s history remain, including the wooden carvings of skulls and bones, and a danse macabre (dance of death). The remains of a mummified cat are also on display in a small glass box.
This cat is one of two characters – along with a gravedigger – which tell the story of the Aitre on the audioguide. This is available in French, English, German and Italian, and costs €5 for adults and €3 for children. You can book your tickets here.
Saint Maclou Church
The magnificent late Gothic church of Saint-Maclou is just to the east of the Cathedral. It’s dedicated to St Malo (St Maclovius in Latin), a saint believed to be of Welsh origin, after whom the Breton port city is also named.
St Maclou church is mostly built in the Flamboyant Gothic style prevalent from the late 14th to late 16th centuries. It’s distinguishable from earlier Gothic styles by its elaborate stonework, some of which resembles flames (hence its name).
The west portal of the church was one of the last sections to be added, from the early 16th-century Renaissance period. The church suffered great damage during the Wars of Religion, French Revolution and World War II, but the portal has somehow survived intact.
Saint-Ouen Church
This Gothic abbey church just north of Rouen city centre is magnificent. It’s named after St Audoin, a 7th-century Bishop of Rouen, and its central lantern tower is one of the most famous landmarks of Rouen.
I’ve seen several websites mistakenly caption images of Saint-Ouen Abbey as ‘Rouen Cathedral’. It’s fair to say that it has the dimensions and superb architecture you’d expect of a Cathedral. The nave is magnificent, from the same phase of Gothic (Rayonnant) as La Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. The stained glass in the nave dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.
The organ is one of the most famous in France. It was the work of Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, who also built the organs at Saint-Sulpice Paris and nearby Basilica of St-Denis.
Part of the church – the south transept – is currently undergoing restoration, but the rest of the church is open for visits.
Place du Vieux Marché – Old Market Square
The Place du Vieux Marché is the heart of medieval Rouen. It’s surrounded by fine half-timbered houses originally built in the Middle Ages, and is the setting of the most notable event in the history of Rouen in 1431. It was here that French heroine Joan of Arc was burned at the stake having been accused of heresy.
A small garden marks the presumed spot where Joan was executed, and the adjacent church (see below) dominates the centre of the square. The Rouen central market is housed in the building next to the Church, designed by Louis Arretche, which complement each other.
The square is a popular place to stop by for a drink or meal, especially with tables outside during the warmer months.
St Joan of Arc Church – Église Sainte Jeanne d’Arc
The modern church dedicated to Joan of Arc dominates the medieval square. It was completed by architect Louis Arretche in 1979 – one of his next projects was the rebuilding of the graceful, iconic Pont des Arts Paris.
The church – with a grey roof possibly in the shape of a flame – has a striking wooden interior, and is flooded with light along one side. Stained-glass from the nearby destroyed church of Saint-Vincent fills the windows, with clear glass above and below.
I was incredibly fortunate to have visited this church back in 1982, just three years after it had opened. Seeing it almost ‘brand new’ was amazing, but all these years later it still has a powerful impact.
Musée Le Secq des Tournelles
Rouen has what amounts to an embarrassment of riches when it comes to its churches. Collectively, they give any city outside Paris a run for its money. A measure of this is that one of its late medieval churches, that of Saint-Laurent (St Lawrence), would have pride of place in many a medieval town across Europe.
And yet it no longer even functions as a church. It was turned into a museum – the Musée Le Secq des Tournelles – in 1920, following a period hosting an exhibition on Norman art. Since then, it has been home to an amazing collection of wrought ironwork.
The collection was amassed in the 19th century by Jean-Louis-Henri Le Secq Des Toiurnelles. He was one of the first photographers in France, and landed a plum commission travelling around France photographing historical monuments.
While carrying out this work he built up this collection, which includes elaborate wrought iron gates, signs, lights, locks, personal effects and much more. The one field of wrought ironwork not included is weaponry. Well worth an hour of your time.
Historial Jeanne d’Arc
Joan of Arc underwent two trials – the one that led to her execution in 1431, and her ‘rehabilitation’ trial in 1456. This multimedia Rouen attraction, set in the Archbishop’s Palace, takes you back to her posthumous trial, while also exploring her life, achievements and how she has been perceived down the centuries, from heretic to national heroine.
The attraction is open from Tuesdays to Sundays, from 10.00 am to 7.00 pm. Tickets cost €11 for adults.
Where Is Rouen
Rouen is the capital of the département of Seine-Maritime in Upper Normandy, the eastern part of the historic province of Normandy.
Rouen is 84 miles (135 km) north-west of Paris, and makes an easy day trip from the capital.
It is also 57 miles (90 km) from the port city of Le Havre, and 79 miles (127 km) from the other Norman regional capital, Caen.
How To Get to Rouen
Rouen is fairly easy to reach. If you’re driving, it’s only a few miles off the Paris to Caen A13 motorway (autoroute). And if you’re heading to Rouen from Le Havre, the A131 across the old Pont de Tancarville is a more direct route than the newer Pont de Normandie.
If you opt to visit Rouen by train, regular services depart Paris Gare Saint-Lazare, the journey taking between 1 hour 15 minutes and 1 hour 40 minutes. Walk-up fares tend to be around €28, but tickets cost less the further you book in advance – as little as €11 if you book a week ahead.
How Long Do You Need In Rouen
Many visit Rouen on a day trip from Paris. This is enough to get a feel of the city, giving you time to visit the Cathedral and explore the old town, including the Gros Horloge and Place du Vieux Marché.
I think it deserves more time than that. I’ve visited Rouen several times going back over 40 years, and a 2- or 3-night stay is about right. It gives you time to get under the skin of the city, exploring the lesser-known medieval streets and churches and some of its museums.
I recommend visiting Rouen as part of a Normandy road trip. It’s a great starting point for exploring the region before moving onto the white cliffs of the Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster Coast), especially around Étretat. It’s also within a 2-hour drive of the Normandy D-Day Beaches to the north of Caen and Bayeux.
One Day In Rouen – What To See And Do
A day in Rouen is enough to get an overview of the historic centre of Rouen. Here’s how I suggest you spend your day there:
10.00 am Arrive in Rouen
Catch the Metro one stop from Gare Rue Verte to Palais de Justice, which is close to the river Seine. Then continue two blocks down Rue Jeanne d’Arc, before heading left down Rue du Gros Horloge. After stopping to admire the Clock, continue to the end of the street to visit the Cathedral.
11.30 am to 1.00 pm – explore the Old Town to the north of the Cathedral and around the church of St-Maclou.
1.00 – 2.00 pm – lunch
2.00 – 4.00 pm – walk along Rue Damiette to Saint-Ouen Church, then either Musee Le Secq des Tournelles, the Musee des Beaux Arts De Rouen, or both.
4.00 – 5.00 pm – walk to Place du Vieux Marche and visit the Church of Joan of Arc.
Where To Stay In Rouen
There are plenty of great places to stay in Rouen, many of which are in the old centre on the right bank (Rive Droite) of the River Seine.
The 4-star Mercure Rouen Centre Cathedrale is a great option, just a two-minute walk from the Cathedral and Gros Horloge. Most of the main Rouen sights are within a 10-minute walk, and it’s also close to the main train station (Rouen Rive Droite).
The Hotel Litteraire Gustave Flaubert BW Signature Collection is inspired by Rouen’s most famous literary son, who was born in the city in 1821. Some of his quotes and passages feature throughout the Hotel, including some of the rooms. The Hotel is located close to the Place du Vieux Marche, and the upper floors offer superb views over the rooftops of Rouen and its many church towers.
My personal recommendation is the Hotel Paulette Rouen Centre, where I stayed during my most recent visit to Rouen. It’s a beautifully decorated hotel, great food and staff, and in an ideal location between the Cathedral and the River Seine.
Things To Do In Rouen – Final Thoughts
Rouen is a fantastic city to visit, and one of the best medieval cities in Europe to visit. I’ve been a huge fan for over 40 years, and can’t praise the city enough. Along with Provins and Chartres it’s the best of the medieval cities around Paris.
It’s also an excellent starting point for a Normandy road trip. The white cliffs of Étretat are only an hour to the north, and the birthplace of Impressionism, the rebuilt port city of Le Havre, is a similar distance to the west. The gorgeous historic harbour town of Honfleur is another easy day trip from Rouen.
Rouen is also within reach of some of the other great French Gothic cathedrals, including Beauvais and Amiens, both to the east.
Many of you will be visiting Rouen from Paris, possibly on a day trip. If you’re staying in the City of Light, check out some of my guides to the city, including the best Eiffel Tower views, and Famous Paris Bridges. And don’t miss my guide to over 20 Famous Churches in Paris, including Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle and many others.
And if you plan to explore even more of the country, check out my France Travel Guide page for many more ideas.
David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.