This is my guide to the village of Old Hersonissos, located on the mountainside above the busy beach resort of Hersonissos.
The village is only two miles from Hersonissos but very different in feel from the beaches and party atmosphere there. Along with neighbouring Piskopiano and Koutouloufari, Old Hersonissos makes a popular short trip from Hersonissos town.
It’s a small, quiet traditional village with a few picturesque streets and corners and a few great tavernas to eat.
In this short guide I’ll show you what there is to do in Old Hersonissos. I’ll also show you the best places to eat and stay, and explain how to get there. Enjoy!
Why Visit Old Hersonissos
Old Hersonissos – Ano Hersonissos in Greek – is a complete change of scenery and atmosphere from the bars and beaches along the coastal strip of Hersonissos.
It’s a small, picturesque village with old stone houses, atmospheric streets and squares with a few Orthodox churches.
The pace of life is far slower than in Hersonissos town – and this is one of the biggest people I spoke with chose to visit.
There are several good tavernas around Old Hersonissos village – with good food, you could easily linger an hour or three.
Old Hersonissos is also a very pleasant place to stay, and a good base for exploring much of Crete. The main E75/E90 North Crete Highway is very close to the village.
Things To Do In Old Hersonissos
Old Hersonissos is somewhere you come to relax for a few hours. It’s a quiet village with a few tavernas, a cosy main square, a few Orthodox churches.
Life is wonderfully slow in Old Hersonissos. The cat pictured had the right idea. Have something to eat, then a nice long siesta.
There are also a few craft and souvenir shops you can browse, then maybe stop at a café for the cake you thought you’d miss earlier at the restaurant.
Old Hersonissos is one of three hill villages above Hersonissos. The three run into each other, and the other two offer more of the same.
Piskopiano is the closer of the two villages. There are many more tavernas, cafes and bars. And there’s also a large whitewashed church in the middle of the village, and a small Rural Life Museum up the hill from there.
Koutouloufari is the last of the three. To be honest, I didn’t know when I had passed from Piskopiano to Koutouloufari until I asked someone. Again, it’s a great spot for a quiet afternoon or evening away from the crowds.
How To Get To Old Hersonissos
No buses run to Old Hersonissos, so if you plan to visit, either walk (half an hour uphill in the heat from Hersonissos), drive or take a taxi.
If you’re driving along the main E75 / A90 from Heraklion, there is a signposted exit for Hersonissos very close to the village.
The standard taxi fare from anywhere in Hersonissos to Old Hersonissos village is €9 one way. One option is taking the taxi one way then walking down the road back to Hersonissos.
The quickest way up on foot is along the road that runs behind bus Stop 19 (on the Heraklion-Hersonissos-Malia-Agios Nikolaos route. The road isn’t named on maps.
If you follow the road down from the centre of the village, you’ll eventually reach the main road to Heraklion.
Where To Stay In Old Hersonissos
The 4-star Mitos Village is a great place to stay in the village. It’s very close to the square, with spacious apartments, a swimming pool, restaurant and optional buffet breakfast.
The 3-star Bella Vista Hotel is only a two-minute walk from the square in Old Hersonissos. It has everything you need on-site – the rooms have kitchenettes and dining areas, and there is also a bar and restaurant next to the pool.
Balsamico Traditional Suites is a complex of stone-built rooms and suites with a pool, bar and restaurant. It is rated Exceptional by guests, and is again a short walk from the centre of Old Hersonissos.
Old Hersonissos Restaurants
Taverna Harakas was my choice of restaurant in Old Hersonissos. I opted for a light lunch, a mixed seafood grill with side salad. The octopus and calamari were outstanding.
The shaded seating area outside gave the game away – it was by far the busiest restaurant in Old Hersonissos.
Myrtios Taverna also had a few customers when I visited. This place was recommended to me by some fellow Brits I met in the village. The menu was classic Cretan and Greek – somewhere I would definitely try if I was staying for a week or so. There are several more places to eat around the main square.
I also chanced upon Ta Petrina, a small family-run taverna with a beautiful outdoor seating area under lemon and pomegranate trees. I only stopped by for a beer here, but got chatting with some regulars at the next table who loved the food.
Best Tours From Old Hersonissos and Hersonissos
If you intend to explore Crete in more depth, then your options are either to travel by bus, drive or take some tours. The buses in Crete are limited in reach once you leave the main roads, so taking a tour or two makes a lot of sense.
One of the best combinations is this tour of the stunning Lassithi Plateau and Knossos Palace in Heraklion. It also takes in the fascinating Kera Kardiotissa Convent, the legendary Cave of Zeus above the Plateau, and lunch overlooking the Plateau and mountains.
Tours to the island of Spinalonga and Agios Nikolaos are also very popular, and we loved ours. The island, at the northern end of Mirabello Bay, was originally a Venetian fortress, and was later used to confine sufferers of leprosy. This tour includes a cruise to Spinalonga and trip to the scenic city of Agios Nikolaos.
Old Hersonissos – Final Thoughts
I hope you have found my guide to Old Hersonissos helpful. If you decide to hire a car in Crete, it makes an excellent base. It’s well worth paying a visit to Piskopiano, the next village along the road from Old Hersonissos.
If you’re heading down the hill into the town, check out my guide to the best Hersonissos beaches. The beaches around the town centre are mostly sandy and pleasant, albeit rather narrow. In peak season they are packed, which is why I suggest venturing a mile or so out of town to the lovely Gefyri Beach and, a little further along the coast, Sarantari Beach. Both are more attractive than the town beaches, with cliffs and amazing crystal-clear water.
The Hersonissos – Malia coastal strip is the most touristed area in Crete, and there are plenty more places to visit close by. Take a look at my guide to the Lychnostatis Open Air Museum, a wonderful museum showing life in rural Crete in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Continue a short distance down the hill from the Museum to Stalis Beach, one of the best beaches in Crete for families. From there it’s only a mile or two to the outskirts of Malia. Check out my guide to all the Malia Beaches, and my separate article on Potamos Beach, at the far end of Malia if you’re approaching from Old Hersonissos. And don’t miss Malia Old Town, which is a wonderful, place to spend an evening and dine out.
Beyond Malia, you’re into the eastern Crete province of Lassithi. Don’t miss my guide to Sissi Crete, a gorgeous harbourside village in the shadow of the mountains. Head through the mountain pass inland past the Selinari Monastery, and it’s not long before you reach the fourth largest city in Crete, Agios Nikolaos.
The city has a stupendous setting, looking across Mirabello Bay to the mountains to the east. It’s also a gateway to many more places to visit, including exclusive Elounda and the famous Spinalonga island. Don’t miss my guide to the best Agios Nikolaos beaches, and also my article on the tropical paradise of Voulisma Beach.
If you plan to head west from Old Hersonissos, there are several popular family-oriented theme parks, including Dinosauria Park, Water City and the CretAquarium. Beyond there, don’t miss my guide to the best things to do in Heraklion, the underrated capital of Crete. If you’re driving, then the other main cities on the north coast of Crete are also within reach. Take a look at my guides to the best things to do in Rethymno and things to do in Chania for more information and ideas.
David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.