A tiny stone church hidden in the cleft of an Atlantic sea cliff, and one of the remarkable places to visit in Wales. This is my guide explaining how to visit St Govans Chapel, the isolated retreat of a 6th-century Celtic Christian hermit, supposedly miraculously sheltered in the cliffs when fleeing pirates.
This isolated, windswept spot on the southwest coast of Wales is one of the most fascinating places to visit in Pembrokeshire. As it’s on the edge of a military firing range, it isn’t always accessible.
In this guide I’ll explain what there is to see at St Govan’s and nearby, how to get there and other logistics, including when you can and cannot visit the Chapel.
I hope that you find it helpful.
Where To Stay
The Dial Inn , Lamphey – highly-rated hotel with excellent restaurant in beautiful village with a medieval Bishop’s Palace
Portclew House – fine guesthouse in a beautiful Georgian building, close to Freshwater East beach and the Stackpole Estate
The Coach House Hotel – great base in nearby Pembroke, in a former medieval coaching inn close to the centre of the town
Who Was St Govan?
We don’t really know.
Reliable information on the life of St Govan is somewhere between extremely rare and non-existent. Various accounts of his life exist – they vary from him being Irish-born to Welsh, and some association with the patron saint of Wales, St David (Dewi Sant) is suggested. This isn’t beyond the realms of possibility, as David was possibly a 6th-century AD contemporary of his, and he lived around thirty miles away.
At some stage Govan was supposedly chased by pirates, and, seeking refuge, a cleft opened in the cliff for him to hide. And the Chapel marks the spot. Govan subsisted on water from a spring close by and fish that he managed to catch in the sea. At some point he erected some sort of building, either a simple hermit’s dwelling or a tiny chapel. The present chapel is not the original building – it was most likely completed in the 13th century.
Somewhere down the line Govan has also been linked with Gawain, one of King Arthur’s Knights of the Round Table. That old chestnut again!
St Govan’s Chapel eventually became a pilgrimage site, as miracle cures were reported by visitors who had drunk or bathed in water from Govan’s Well, which has long since dried up.
St Govan’s Chapel – What You See
From the car park (and bus stop) it’s barely a minute’s walk to the top of the flight of 52 stone steps leading down to the chapel. There is a handrail on one side – hold onto it after rain, as the steps are likely to be slippery.
At first you see the rear of the chapel, with its slate roof (added substantially later, possibly in the 19th century). Then you reach the tiny stone chapel, which has two small windows – one on the east side near the roof, and one lower down in the south wall, with a view out to sea.
The Chapel is just 20” by 12 “ – roughly 6 by 4 metres. Inside, it’s all simple and humble, with a stone altar and stone benches.
When you reach the ground below the Chapel, you get a much better appreciation of its dramatic location, hemmed in by sheer limestone cliffs. I’ve encountered some precariously sited chapels on mountains in some of the Greek islands, but never anywhere quite like this.
The bell used by Govan was supposedly stolen by pirates, only to be returned to him by an intervening angel. According to legend this bell is now encased in one of the rocks below the Chapel, and if Govan ever struck this rock, the bell would sound far louder and clearer that it did prior to being encased in rock.
For photos of the Chapel, I recommend walking along the clifftops either side of the cleft – both sides offer some amazing angles. And there are also some superb views along the coast in both directions. St Govan’s Head, less than ten minutes’ walk to the east, is officially where the Bristol Channel ends and the Atlantic Ocean begins.
When You Can Visit St Govan’s Chapel – And When You Can’t
The simple answer is when the firing range – or at least this part of the firing range – is not in use.
Check the Ministry of Defence Castlemartin page before planning a visit. It’s very helpful – the days when the road to the Chapel is open or closed are clearly listed on month-by-month pdf documents.
Bear in mind that the monthly documents also list the opening and closing times of the road and path to Stack Rocks and the Green Bridge of Wales, a few miles to the west and also within the firing range. The Chapel tends to be open more often than the Stack Rocks and Green Bridge. Their opening and closing times are listed side by side on the monthly document.
Otherwise, call the MOD Castlemartin firing range on (01646) 662367 for updates.
When the road is closed, the gate south of Bosherston village is also closed, and a red flag will also be flying.
Where Is St Govan’s Chapel
The Chapel is one mile I(1.6 km) south of the village of Bosherston, on the Castlemartin Peninsula to the south of the town of Pembroke.
Here are some sample distances from elsewhere in Pembrokeshire:
Pembroke to St Govan’s Chapel – 7 miles
Haverfordwest to St Govan’s Chapel – 17 miles
Tenby to St Govan’s Chapel – 16 miles
Getting to St Govans Chapel
The easiest way to reach St Govan’s Chapel is by car, but the 387/388 Coastal Cruiser service does take you to Bosherston village and on to the car park above St Govan’s Chapel. It runs twice daily from Pembroke Dock, and it covers destinations all around the peninsula including Stackpole Quay, the stop for Barafundle Bay.
The car park – owned by the MOD – is free, and can accommodate around 40 vehicles.
Places To Visit Near St Govan’s Chapel
St Govan’s Chapel is on the Castlemartin Peninsula, which is sometimes also called the Angle Peninsula, after the village in its northwest corner.
Immediately west of the Chapel, the 3-mile stretch of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of the most dramatic in Wales. The only drawback is that it’s normally closed more frequently than the Chapel.
Initially you pass Huntsmans Leap, a chasm in the cliffs, before reaching two beautiful but difficult to access beaches, Bullslaughter Bay and Flimston Bay. You then reach two of the most spectacular coastal sights in Wales, Elegug Stacks (also called Stack Rocks) and the Green Bridge of Wales, a magnificent sea arch a few hundred metres further on. Unfortunately, the Coast Path beyond this point is only open for guided walks a few days a year.
To the east of St Govan’s Chapel, the Stackpole Estate has some of the most varied coastal scenery in Wales. As you walk east from the Chapel, St Govan’s Head is the first landmark you reach, and from there it’s not far to the vast expanse of Broad Haven South Beach. It’s backed by some pristine sand dunes, and just beyond the back of the beach you’ll find the delightful Bosherston Lily Ponds, a series of man-made lakes managed by the National Trust.
Further east, the scenery is much more rugged. Offshore, the unusual stack known as Church Rock (which does rather resemble a church with a spire) hints at what’s to come. Stackpole Head is superb, a windswept headland with sheer cliffs (much loved by climbers) and yet more sea stacks.
Then things become gentler again, as the Coast Path heads north for a short distance to Barafundle Bay, one of the best beaches in Pembrokeshire. Despite its relative remoteness – around a kilometre from the nearest car park, at Stackpole Quay, it’s quite popular. This isn’t too surprising, as it’s a gorgeous sandy beach in a glorious setting, and quite sheltered from the prevailing winds from the southwest.
The rest of the Peninsula merits plenty more of your time. You’ll find some ancient Pembrokeshire churches, including the 12th-century ones at Bosherston and Stackpole Elidor. On the west coast, Harry Potter fans may well be familiar with Freshwater West beach, a mile of superb sand backed by dunes, which was the site of Dobby the Elf’s Shell Cottage in the Deathly Hallows movie. The cottage was removed immediately after filming, but there’s a memorial to the faithful elf in the dunes above the beach.
And a few miles to the north of St Govan’s, Pembroke Castle is one of the most formidable castles in wales, well worth a couple of hours of anyone’s time.
How To Visit St Govans Chapel – Final Thoughts
I hope that you’ve found this article intriguing and useful. St Govan’s is a fascinating place, and with so many other places on the doorstep, makes for part of a brilliant day out in South Pembrokeshire.
I’ve spent an enormous amount of time in Pembrokeshire going back to my first trip there in 1979, and travelled all over the county, photographing it in great depth. Here are some more of my articles on this wonderful part of Wales:
Pembrokeshire Articles
Things To Do In Tenby – one of the most beautiful seaside towns in Europe
Tenby Beaches – detailed guide to the four stunning beaches in this gorgeous town
Things To Do In St David’s – the complete guide to the smallest city in the UK, with the finest Cathedral in Wales, outstanding beaches and much more
Pembrokeshire Road Trip – a 5-day itinerary exploring this breathtaking part of West Wales
Pembrokeshire Castles – 12 fine castles from Norman fortresses to historic mansions
The Best Of The Rest Of Wales
One Day In Cardiff – 24 Hours In The Capital of Wales
Gower Beaches – Rhossili, Three Cliffs and some hidden Gower treasures
25 Best Things To Do In Snowdonia – North West Wales’ breathtaking National Park
25 Best Things To Do In The Brecon Beacons – where Wales starts to get wild after Cardiff and the Valleys
35 Best Castles in South Wales
Cambrian Mountains – 28 Wonderful Places To Visit
20 Best Places To Visit in the Welsh Borders
33 Best Day Trips from Cardiff
20 Best Things To Do In The South Wales Valleys
More Beautiful Places to Visit in Wales
Best Seaside Towns In Wales – Llandudno, Tenby, Barmouth and many more
Landscapes in Wales – Breathtaking landscapes in Wales you must see
Churches in Wales – 30 astonishing churches and cathedrals from all corners of the country
Rivers in Wales – Some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales
Lakes in Wales – Where you find some of the best views in Wales
Landmarks in Wales – famous places in Wales to Explore
Wales Bucket List – 40 Fantastic Places In Wales You Should Not Miss
Mid Wales