Chester Cathedral is one of the outstanding churches in England. This great red sandstone edifice is the centrepiece of one of the most beautiful cities in England, certainly the most picturesque in the northwest of the country.
Chester was one of the wealthiest cities in Britain, and its Cathedral – previously an Abbey Church – attracted pilgrims to the Shrine of St Werburgh for over 800 years.
These made it one of the richest churches in the country, and it survived the most turbulent period of English church history largely intact.
I’ve been fortunate to have visited Chester Cathedral around ten times over 40 years, from day trips from North Wales in my teens to much slower, more considered visits in my 50s.
My Chester Cathedral guide gives you an overview of this outstanding church, and I have selected the best features for you to seek out. I hope you enjoy visiting as much as we have.
Why Visit Chester Cathedral
Chester Cathedral is one of the most beautiful cathedrals in northern England, indeed one of the best cathedrals in England to visit.
It’s a fascinating church to explore, with parts from each of the stages of English medieval church architecture (Romanesque, Early English Gothic, Decorated Gothic and Perpendicular Gothic).



One of the greatest artistic treasures of Chester Cathedral is its stunning 14th-century wooden choir stalls, which are among the most magnificent anywhere in the UK and Europe.
Its complex of monastic buildings is one of the most complete in the UK, with an exquisite cloister, garden, refectory and chapter house.
It’s also a Cathedral that has moved with the times, and some of its more recent additions – especially its statue and fountain – are among the most popular things to see there.
Chester Cathedral History


The present church was founded by Hugh d’Avranches, also known as Hugh Lupus, in 1092. Hugh was a nephew of William the Conqueror, and before embarking on building the Abbey had already completed nearby Chester Castle.
The new Abbey was to be a suitably grand home for the Shrine of St Werburgh, the Anglo-Saxon saint to whom the church was dedicated.
The church was expanded upon over the following centuries, funded by revenue from pilgrims to St Werburgh’s Shrine.

It was added to in the late 15th and early 16th centuries, when the west window and parts of the south transept were built.
St Werburgh’s Abbey was closed under Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries, and the shrine of the Anglo-Saxon saint was destroyed around 1540, her relics lost forever.
Fortunately the Abbey was spared most of the destruction other Abbeys suffered under Henry VIII – most of the monastic buildings, including the cloister, chapter house and refectory, survived intact.

Unfortunately the Cathedral’s magnificent medieval stained glass didn’t survive the zeal of Puritan / Parliamentarian forces during the English Civil War. They perceived it to be idolatrous, and smashed all of it.
Chester Cathedral later underwent a major restoration in the 19th century, with further additions in the 20th. These include the belltower in the corner of the churchyard next to the Chester city wall walk.
Things To See In Chester Cathedral
West Window

The intricate west window of Chester Cathedral was built in the English Perpendicular style. Along with contemporary churches like Bath Abbey and King’s College Chapel Cambridge, this was the last flowering of Gothic architecture in England, but there are also many examples in Wales and Scotland.

The stained glass in the window was the work of WT Carter Shapland. The central two sections of the window depict the Holy Family, while the panels either side show the Anglo-Saxon saints Werburgh, Oswald, Aidan, Chad, Wilfrid and Werburgh’s aunt Ethelfleda.
Nave


The nave of Chester Cathedral is a magnificent sight, with its superb wooden rib vaulting and 19th-century nave altar and choir screen.
It was begun around 1323 – in the Decorated English style – but wasn’t completed until the late 15th century (when the vault was finished). Work was severely hampered by outbreaks of the plague – most notably 1347-50 and 1375 – and only begun again around 1485.



The nave has several intriguing sights well worth investigating. A rare surviving consistory court – a church court – is in the south-western corner, but sadly when I visited recently it was largely obscured by stacks of chairs about to be used for a concert.
There are also several fine wall memorials – I was particularly struck by the one to Edmund Entwistle, Archdeacon of Chester between 1695 and 1707.
My son adored the enormous Lego Chester Cathedral, which can be found on the south side of the nave. It’s mightily impressive, and at the last count was constructed from over 271,000 bricks.
Choir Stalls and Sculptures


For many, the 14th-century quire stalls are the crowning glory of Chester Cathedral. They are among the best-preserved of any in the UK, astonishingly ornate stalls with incredibly detailed carvings.


Some of the canopies of the stalls are rich and elaborate, resembling miniature church spires. Look closer at the actual seats and you’ll discover a whole host of outstanding misericords. These ‘mercy seats’ are small ledges on the underside of upturned seats – and when folded up would offer some support to the worshipper standing during long passages of prayer.
Many of these seats are adorned with remarkable detailed carvings, often depicting Biblical stories or tales relating to more recent or local saints.
St Werburgh’s Shrine

St Werburgh was a princess in the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Mercia who died in the early 8th century AD. She was venerated as a saint a few years after her death when her tomb was opened and her remains intact.
Her relics were eventually moved to Chester, finding a permanent home in the Abbey Church which became the Cathedral.
Her shrine was desecrated and her relics lost in the aftermath of King Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries around 1540. Werburgh’s relics were never recovered, but fragments of her shrine were pieced together in 1876. The reconstructed shrine can be found between the high altar and Lady Chapel at the east end of the Cathedral. A small modern figure of Werburgh sits atop the shrine.
The Lady Chapel

The Lady Chapel is one of the earliest parts of the Gothic Abbey Church to have been completed.
The clue is in the five narrow lancet windows, a classic signature of the Early English Gothic style that developed in the early 13th century. The Lady Chapel is believed to have been completed in the second half of the 13th century. Eagle-eyed visitors may spot that it has one of the few stone vaults in the Cathedral – the others around the church are made from wood.
The Greene Memorial

There are several superb memorials in Chester Cathedral, and in my view the finest is that of Thomas Greene, Sheriff and later Mayor of Chester, and his two wives.
It’s quite easy to miss, as it’s hidden on the ‘back’ of a pillar on the south side of the nave altar and crossing.

Thomas Greene survived both his wives, but their memory lives on in this gorgeous monument. However, it’s very fortunate to have survived the over-zealous destructive urges of local Puritans.
Look closely and you’ll see that the three pairs of praying hands have been brutally removed. This simple gesture of praying would have been considered too Roman Catholic. So it’s a relief they didn’t go further and wreck the whole memorial.
Traces of the original Abbey Church in the north transept

The one place you can see traces of the Romanesque Abbey church is in the east wall of the north transept. A rounded Romanesque arch remains, and above these a small arcaded section of smaller arches.
The Abbey church built by Hugh Lupus would have been considerably smaller than the present Cathedral. And looking at the height of these arches, it’s likely that the roof level would also have been lower.
The vast south transept – and things to do in Chester Cathedral for kids


Chester Cathedral’s south transept is much longer than most church transepts. Indeed it’s also larger than many churches, and for centuries was separated by screens from the rest of the church.
It was extended in the 14th century to allow space for additional chapels to be built. Here, monks would say Mass for the souls of the dead, and when they were built Europe was repeatedly ravaged by outbreaks of the plague, also known as the Black Death.
The south transept eventually began to be used as functioned as a separate church within the Abbey. It was used by the congregation of the church of St Oswald, who at one stage used premises close by. However, they were later re-admitted to the Abbey near the end of the 15th century, and continued to use it until the late 19th century. It was only then that the south transept was re-integrated into the Cathedral.


We were very taken with the small children’s area in the south transept. The Cathedral is only a few miles from Chester Zoo, the largest in the UK, and several children had made thought-provoking artworks.

These were on the theme of the damage done by humankind to the planet, and the model of the orangutan was especially poignant, as she was worried about what was happening to her home.
Cloister and Garden


The cloister – and monastic buildings at Chester Cathedral – are unusual in the UK and Europe in that they are located on the north side of the church rather than the south. Nobody knows why this is.
The cloister served as a walkway between the church and the rest of the monastery. It is a relatively late addition to the Abbey / Cathedral precincts, having been built in the Perpendicular style. This would place it in the final half-century or so before the Abbey was dissolved and became a Cathedral.
When we recently visited, many visitors were drawn towards the Water of Life sculpture and fountain in the middle of the cloister garth. It’s the work of Stephen Broadbent, and when we visited was augmented by a lovely light display of glass creatures every evening.
Refectory

There are few more awesome places to eat or enjoy a coffee than the breathtaking Chester Cathedral Refectory. It’s now home to the 1092 Café, which serves a mixture of cakes, snacks, soups, light meals and drinks.
It’s a stunning, soaring space, with a beautifully carved wooden ceiling which was added in the 20th century. The refectory was the monks’ dining room. They would eat in silence, with readings (to all intents and purposes sermons) delivered from the rare, splendid pulpit.
It’s all much more relaxed and convivial these days. It’s hard to imagine the monks not being able to speak to each other while dining. You just hope they took some inspiration from their amazing surroundings.
Chapter House

Chester Cathedral’s Chapter House was likely the first flourish of Gothic in the growing Abbey Church and precincts. Its characteristic Early English Gothic lancet windows date it to mid-13th century.
This is where the monks would have met to discuss Abbey business, and the Cathedral Chapter have subsequently done the same for most of the last five centuries.
The View From Chester City Walls


Chester Cathedral is very close to the best section of the Chester city walls walk. The Wall passes along the east side of the cathedral churchyard, offering outstanding views of the Cathedral through the trees.
It’s little more than a minute’s walk from the iconic Eastgate Clock, another of the best-known Chester landmarks. You pass just a few feet beneath the ornate late Victorian clock, and can enjoy superb views in either direction along Eastgate, one of the main streets in Chester.
Chester Cathedral Tours

Chester Cathedral offer several themed tours, which are a great way of delving deeper into the history of this remarkable building.
The themes include Stained Glass, the Medieval Quire Stalls and the Cathedral’s Gothic Architecture. They also offer Tower Tours on certain days, weather permitting. At the time of writing, all tours cost £6 per person.
Things To See Near Chester Cathedral

Chester Cathedral is centrally located, and within a short walk of several of the best things to do in Chester.
It’s very close to the Chester City Walls and, from there, the famous Eastgate Clock. This is said to be the second most-photographed clock in the UK after Big Ben. It’s certainly one of the most picturesque!

The famous Chester Rows are also very close to the Cathedral. These unique covered passageways on the first storey above the ground take you to a world of small shops, boutiques, cafes and medieval pubs. Some of them are on St Werburgh’s Street within sight of the Cathedral. They can also be found along Eastgate, Bridge Street and Watergate Street.

Barely five minutes’ walk from the Cathedral, you step 2,000 years back in time to Roman Chester. There are extensive of this once formidable garrison town (known as Deva Victrix) including a fine Roman Garden, the remains of an amphitheatre and the only surviving Roman shrine intact in situ in the UK. The latter, the Shrine of Minerva, is in a tiny quarry in a field just across the River Dee in the village of Handbridge.
How To Get To Chester Cathedral

Chester Cathedral is very easy to reach.
If you’re driving, there are several car parks within a 5-minute walk of the Cathedral. The cathedral’s postcode is CH1 2DY.
If you’re travelling by public transport, Chester Bus Station is a seven-minute walk away, while Chester train station is a further ten minutes’ walk away. Buses from either station stop on Foregate Street, five minutes’ walk from the Cathedral.
Chester Cathedral – Final Words

I’ve loved Chester Cathedral ever since my first visit as an awe-struck 14-year-old.
It’s grand, spectacular and imposing, but I’ve also felt there is something intimate and cosy about it, even if you’re visiting on a bright summer’s day.
My family also loved it, and it’s somewhere I recommend visiting for at least a couple of hours. One of the best two or three things to see in Chester, without a doubt.

David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.
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