Exploring the superb coastal Castle, enjoying an ice cream on one of its beautiful beaches and savouring the views of the peaks of Eryri – Snowdonia – are right up there with the best things to do in Criccieth.
Criccieth is a small, slightly traditional seaside town with a couple of great beaches either side of a ruined 13th-century Welsh Prince’s Castle on a steep headland. You won’t get many better views from a beach anywhere in Wales. As well as the usual trappings of a seaside town – the ice cream, fish and chips, restaurants and seafront hotels and B&Bs – Criccieth also has an amazing setting with the mountains of Snowdonia and the Rhinog range as a backdrop.
As it’s on a mainline train route it’s also very easy to reach, and a great base for exploring the Cardigan Bay coast. The Italianate village of Portmeirion, the World Heritage Castles of Edward I and the mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) are all within a short distance, so it’s a fantastic base for a North Wales holiday. And if you’re driving, the wilder landscapes of the Llŷn Peninsula also await.
In this guide I show you everything to see in and around Criccieth, and also suggest short-hop day trips nearby. I also explain how to get to Criccieth, and also suggest places to stay there. I hope you find the article helpful.
Visit Criccieth Castle
Criccieth is one of the most beautiful castles in North Wales, in a stunning setting on a headland between two beaches, commanding views west and east along the Llŷn Peninsula coast.
It is Criccieth’s calling card, one of very few Welsh castles to be sited next to a beach, so it’s somewhere we returned to photograph a great many times. The better view is from the East Beach in morning sunshine, and also looks wonderful from there at sunset during the winter.
Criccieth Castle was one of the foremost castles of the Welsh princes. It was built by Llywelyn Fawr (Llywelyn the Great) and his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffydd (Llywelyn the Last) added outer walls and two additional towers. However, it fell into the hands of English invaders under King Edward I, who was busy building his Iron Ring of Castles to the north to subjugate the Welsh. He succeeded in doing so – only to near-bankrupt himself in the process.
The Castle remained in English hands for the entire 14th century, and equipped with a trebuchet to fire rocks and whatever other missiles were to hand to deter Welsh attacks. It only fell to the Welsh again in 1404, when it was torched by Welsh prince Owain Glyndwr at the height of his revolt against English rule. It was then left in its ruined state for centuries.
If you’re travelling in the footsteps of Owain Glyndwr or painter JMW Turner, Criccieth is an essential stop. What Owain burned down, Turner found a romantic ruin and setting for one of his dramatic paintings. It’s a superb Castle, with one of the best settings in Wales, and offers outstanding views, particularly inland towards the peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia). You can also often see Harlech Castle, a few miles away to the southeast, in the shadow of the Rhinog mountains.
Opening Times: It’s open Thursdays to Mondays from April to 1st November, and Fridays to Sundays from 2ndNovember to the end of March.
Relax On One Of The Criccieth Beaches
The longer, busier and more accessible of the two beaches in Criccieth is Criccieth East Beach, also sometimes called simply Criccieth Beach (Traeth Cricieth in Welsh). It’s a mixture of sand and pebbles, and with the Castle as a backdrop it’s one of the most picturesque beaches in North Wales.
It also has the advantage of some restaurants along the seafront (Dylan’s Swn y Mor), Cadwalader’s Ice Cream (very popular in this part of the world) and a chippy (the Castle Fish Bar, just across the street from Cadwalader’s).
Criccieth West Beach – also called Marine Beach – isn’t quite as good as the East Beach. It’s more exposed to the southwesterly winds that often blow this way, which explains the groynes (wooden breakwaters) along its length. That said, it’s a most pleasant spot for a stroll, with a splash of colour added by the seafront B&Bs.
Find Criccieth’s Secret Ancient Burial Chamber
Criccieth was one of my regular haunts during my time working for Visit Wales, and something kept catching my eye whenever we drove into the town. One day, with time on our side, we pulled over and went down the hill to take a look.
I was delighted to find an ancient burial chamber in an open field overlooking the Castle and coastline. It’s similar to many ancient sites in Wales, a partly collapsed burial chamber from the Neolithic period, anything up to 5,000 years old. The capstone has at some point fallen in on the supporting stones, but the purpose of the monument remains clear.
The burial chamber is called Caer Dyni, and is a few minutes’ detour from the Coast path between Criccieth and Black Rock Sands.
Walk The Coast Path To Black Rock Sands
Black Rock Sands – Traeth Morfa Bychan – is an enormous beach a mile or so east of Criccieth that stretches more than a mile to the Afon Dwyryd estuary. It’s often very busy in the summer months, but in winter you’d likely have it mostly to yourself.
Morfa Bychan has some of the worst coastal development in Wales, with several large caravan and holiday parks taking up a swathe of land just back from the beach. This doesn’t detract from the beach at all, but in summer quite a few visitors park on the firm sands – a sight I’ve never encountered elsewhere in Wales.
The walk there from Criccieth is a joy, as is the view that rewards your effort. The Coast Path runs close to the railway, passing the top of the darkened cliff face that gives the beach its English name. Once you’re down on the beach, even in summer, you’ll still have a huge amount of space.
Visit Pennarth Fawr Medieval House
Pennarth Fawr, a few miles west of Criccieth, is one of the finest surviving late medieval houses in Wales. The present structure has been dated to 1476 onwards, and it was constructed for Hywel ap Madog, a wealthy member of the local gentry with a sizeable estate spread over the Llŷn Peninsula.
The stone house is supported by wooden beams within, and has a large fireplace, a space that would have been ideal for entertaining guests.
It’s open from April to September, 10.00 am to 5.00 pm, and closed from October to March.
Getting there: it’s a mile’s walk from Penychain train station, and around 1 km from the nearby number 3 bus stop just after the Hafan y Mor holiday park. If you’re driving, take the A497 from Criccieth towards Pwllheli, and turn right at the brown tourist road sign with the green cross in a white circle. It’s 500 metres off the main road.
Visit the David Lloyd George Museum and Grave in Llanystumdwy
Over a century after he left office, David Lloyd George remains the most famous Welsh politician of the last few hundred years. He is the only Welshman to have held the highest political office in the UK, that of Prime Minister. And he did so at a critical juncture in world history, with victory in World War I coming under his tenure.
He was born in Manchester but grew up in Llanystumdwy, the village two miles west of Criccieth. He was elected Liberal MP for Caernarfon in 1890, and held the seat until his death 55 years later, in 1945.
Before serving as Prime Minister, he served as Chancellor of the Exchequer, and was responsible for the 1911 National Insurance Act. This was one of the cornerstones of Britain’s future welfare state. He later served as Minister for Munitions and Secretary of State for War before replacing Herbert Asquith as Prime Minister in December 2016.
He eventually led Britain to victory in World War I, but had a controversial legacy as he was responsible for the Balfour Declaration supporting a Jewish state in Palestine (a tinderbox still burning over a century later), and was one of the main players in imposing the Treaty of Versailles on Germany. He eventually resigned in 1922.
This small Museum is the only one of its kind in Wales, and is well worth visiting if politics or history is of interest to you. The exhibits include a draft copy of the Treaty of Versailles, his childhood home in Highgate Cottage and some of the honours documents presented to him, including the freedom of several cities.
The Museum is open from Easter to October – Monday to Friday in April, May and October, Monday to Saturday in June and September, and daily in the peak July and August season.
Lloyd George’s grave is located next to the Afon (River) Dwyfor, a two-minute walk behind the Museum.
Getting there: The Porthmadog-Criccieth-Pwllheli bus stops in Llanystumdwy village.
Climb Moel y Gest
With the mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) on the doorstep, many would forsake a mere hill for greater heights inland. Don’t make the same mistake. Moel y Gest, the 860-foot hill between Porthmadog and Criccieth, is an outstanding viewpoint over Tremadog Bay, with magnificent 360° views over the western reaches of Snowdonia, the Llŷn Peninsula and Cambrian Coast.
Don’t be fooled by the word ‘hill’ either, as getting to the top is surprisingly challenging, with a couple of rocky scrambles to negotiate. The easiest way up (and they’re not that easy) are from Porthmadog (the path leads from Penamser Road, the A497 road) through the woods across the road from the industrial estate. A longer route begins at Borth-y-Gest, the delightful hidden seaside village just over the hill from Porthmadog town centre.
One of the best views is west along the Llŷn coast, especially towards sunset when the Castle is silhouetted.
Discover World Heritage Ynysypandy Slate Mill
Ynysypandy Slate Mill is one of six parts of Wales’ fourth UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Welsh Slate Landscape of Gwynedd. It was built to process slate quarried two miles away in. Gorseddau, another atmospheric site at the end of a valley beyond a popular fishing lake, Llyn Cwm Ystradllyn.
Ynysypandy has been nicknamed the ‘Cathedral of Welsh Slate’, and it’s possibly the single most impressive building in the entire World Heritage Site. It was built at the top of a rocky rise in 1856, a three-storey stone edifice with round arched windows. Slate was delivered to the building through two levels.
The Gorseddau enterprise flourished for some years, but it was eventually closed down in 1871 after just 15 years of operation. The Slate Mill was still used to host eisteddfodau (Welsh cultural events with music and poetry) for some years afterwards, but it has been an evocative roofless ruin since 1906. JMW Turner would have just loved to paint it, I’m sure.
Getting there: by car only. Take the A497 from Criccieth towards Porthmadog then take the first left minor road after the fisheries as you reach the village of Pentrefelin. This takes you to the A487, where you turn right, then first left after 100 metres.
Then follow the minor road to the first junction, and turn left. After 400 metres, turn right, following the sign for Cwm Ystradllyn. At the next fork in the road, go left. You’ll soon see the Slate Mill, just over two miles off the A487 road.
Climb To Tre’r Ceiri, The Iron Age Town of Giants
Tre’r Ceiri is one of the great ancient sites in Wales, an Iron Age village founded around 2,000 years ago in one of the most improbable locations you could conceive, atop a steep mountain.
Tre’r Ceiri was a large village, and the outer walls of the settlement and the foundations of most of the stone huts remain intact. It’s an astonishing sight, built on one of the three summits of Yr Eifl (known as ‘The Rivals’ in English) a trio of jagged rocky peaks that dominate the north coast of the Llŷn Peninsula.
Whoever lived up there around 2,000 years ago were a hardy lot. They would have been exposed to the worst of weather and high winds 1,500 feet above sea level, and I hope those stone huts kept them warm and dry. I’ve hiked up to Tre’r Ceiri several times at peak fitness, taking about 25 minutes each way. I sent a crew up there once and they took closer to an hour, so the time taken to get up there depends on your individual fitness.
The views from the top are breathtaking – north up Caernarfon Bay, east towards Eryri, and south and west over the Llŷn Peninsula – are unforgettable. The light early and late in the day is best, assuming the weather is on your side. There is room for 4 or 5 cars to park on the B4417 road from Llanaelhaearn to Nefyn. The spaces are on your right, just after you leave Llanaelhaearn village heading southwest.
And for a drink or meal to reward you for your efforts, I recommend the excellent Tafarn Y Fic in Llithfaen, a mile or two further along the road to Nefyn.
Take a Ride On The Cambrian Coast Line – One of The Most Scenic Mainline Routes in Britain
If you’re travelling Wales by train, the Cambrian Coast line between Machynlleth and Pwllheli is the first place I’d direct you. It makes any of the stations along the line a great base for exploring the Cardigan Bay and gives you access to so many places that you can easily do without a car.
From Criccieth, you’re within easy reach of Pwllheli in one direction, and Porthmadog, Portmeirion (via Minffordd station), Harlech and Barmouth. Stay on for another twenty minutes or so and you trundle gently to Aberdovey, with its enormous beach and superb Coast path walk high above the town.
The journey itself is a pleasure, one I have always loved – I’ve probably made it 70-80 times in all. The highlight is the short run across Barmouth Bridge and the Mawddach estuary, with stupendous views inland to the Cadair Idris massif.
Visit the Fantasy Village of Portmeirion
The Italianate fantasy village of Portmeirion is one of the most beautiful villages in Europe. The life’s work of local architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, who took Portofino as his inspiration, he slowly built a fantasy holiday village by the Dwyryd estuary with (eventually) two hotels, and every suite and cottage in the village available as a holiday home.
His buildings are an eclectic selection, often ‘rescued’ from demolition. They include the Neoclassical Bristol Colonnade and a loggia on the main Piazza, an Italian Baroque-style campanile (belltower), pastel-painted Georgian houses and a gold-painted statue of Buddha in a blue shelter.
It’s all pure whimsy and confection, and I’ve loved this place for over 40 years. Sometimes travelling is all about escapism, and for me, this is what Portmeirion is all about.
The village was also the setting for The Prisoner TV series during the 1960s, which starred Pastrick McGoohan. Fans visit every year for a Prisoner Convention. I’ve only ever stayed in the village once, a fantastic experience. If you ever have the chance, I strongly recommend it.
See Also: Things To Do In Portmeirion
Discover World Heritage Castles in Caernarfon or Harlech
Two of the four World Heritage Castles in North Wales are within fairly easy reach from Criccieth, and the other two aren’t much further, but you’d probably need a car to get there and back in a day.
Harlech is the easiest to reach, as it’s also on the Cambrian Coast line, a quick half-hour journey across Tremadog Bay via Porthmadog. Just be prepared for a short but very steep climb from the station (at sea level) to the clifftop castle. And if you think this road is steep, another one in the town was, until recently, considered the steepest street in the world.
Harlech Castle is magnificent, built on what was a sea cliff, and is now a mile inland from the sea and one of the best Cardigan Bay beaches. Built by Edward I around 1283, it held firm for over a century until it was captured by rebel Welsh Prince Owain Glyndwr in 1404. He held it for five years until he was ousted by the forces of Welsh-born English King Henry V. It was later besieged during the Wars of the Roses, inspiring the Welsh rugby anthem Men of Harlech, and was the last royalist stronghold to succumb in the Civil War of 1642-1647. See my article on the best things to do in Harlechfor further information.
Caernarfon is also easy to reach from Criccieth, with the T2 service – which takes between 40 minutes and an hour – running there directly. Caernarfon is one of the greatest medieval castles in the world, a formidable fortress on the seashore modelled on the Theodosian Walls in Constantinople. It also has a largely intact circuit of town walls, and is one of the finest walled towns in Europe.
It’s also possible to get there via the Welsh Highland Railway from Porthmadog, which runs along a wonderful route along the west side of the Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) massif.
Where Is Criccieth
Criccieth is on the south coast of the Llŷn Peninsula, in the county of Gwynedd in North West Wales. It lies between the towns of Porthmadog (8km / 5 miles to the east) and Pwllheli (15 km / 9 miles to the southwest).
Here are some sample distances from other towns and cities:
Caernarfon to Criccieth – 17 miles (27 km)
Llandudno to Criccieth – 45 miles (72 km)
Chester to Criccieth – 69 miles (112 km)
Manchester to Criccieth – 107 miles (172 km)
Cardiff to Criccieth – 148 miles (238 km)
London to Criccieth – 239 miles (385 km)
How To Get To Criccieth
Criccieth is easy to reach both by car and public transport, though if you’re travelling a long distance by train and / or bus, you’ll need to allow a good few hours’ travelling time.
By Road
Criccieth is on the A497 road which runs to the furthest main town on the Llŷn, Pwllheli, before joining the A499 to Abersoch.
If driving from the south of England or the Midlands, turn onto the A5 at Shrewsbury, continue as far as Betws-y-Coed where you join the A470 south. From there, join the A487 after Llan Ffestiniog, taking the Porthmadog bypass and joining the A407 the last few miles to Criccieth.
If travelling from northwest England, take the A55 North Wales Expressway, joining the A487 for the short run into Caernarfon, and south to Tremadog, from which you pick up the A497 to Criccieth.
And if you’re travelling from Cardiff and South Wales, take the A470 until you meet the A487 between Trawsfynydd and Llan Ffestiniog, then proceed via the Porthmadog bypass and A497 to Criccieth.
By Train Or Bus
Criccieth is on the scenic Cambrian Coast line, which is a wonderful but not terribly speedy way to travel. It’s 3 ½ hours from Shrewsbury to Criccieth, so allow enough time to arrive. There are usually seven trains a day, with a two-to three-hour interval between each, running in each direction. As I’ve said earlier in the article, the route is fantastic, opening up a lot of places to non-car-users.
Only one bus stops at Criccieth, the regular number 3 service between Porthmadog and Pwllheli. This service is useful for stopping at a few places along the way too.
Where To Stay In Criccieth
Criccieth is a great place to stay, and the sight of the castle and beach first thing in the morning is enough to lift most spirits for a while. There are also several great Criccieth hotels and B&Bs, and I’ve stayed in each of the following three times or more:
**** – Bron Eifion Hotel – beautiful country house hotel, a mile from the town – and plus marks for keeping the kitchen open late to feed us after a 17-hour working day
**** – Caerwylan Hotel – lovely seaside hotel, superb views from rooms, an idyllic place to stay
****- Glanllifon B & B – top notch seaside B&B, very close to West Beach and the Castle
Things To Do In Criccieth – Final Thoughts
I hope you have found this guide helpful. Criccieth is one of the best seaside towns in Wales in my book, and every time I see the Castle above the beach I get the same buzz of excitement as when I saw it the first time when I was 13 or 14 years old.
It’s a lovely small town and there have always been a few great places to eat in town. It’s also a great base for exploring the Cambrian Coast (by train) and, if you have a car, Snowdonia as well.
Here are some more articles on North Wales for you to browse, where hopefully you’ll find further inspiration:
Best Places in North Wales
Llŷn Peninsula beaches – from Porth Dinllaen to Portmeirion, some of the best beaches in Wales
Best things to do in Conwy – A stunning UNESCO Heritage town on the edge of Snowdonia National Park
Things To Do In Caernarfon – there’s more to this coastal town than one of the best medieval castles on the planet
Betws-y-Coed – A picturesque Welsh mountain town in the spectacular Snowdonia National Park
Things To Do In Llangollen – gorgeous riverside town, one of the highlights of North East Wales
Things To Do In Barmouth – if you find a more beautiful setting for a seaside town, please let me know
Things To Do In Aberdaron – the wondrous Land’s End of North Wales
Anglesey
Llanddwyn Island – One of the most special of all Welsh islands
Anglesey beaches & coastline – Home to some of the best beaches in the UK
Best walks on Anglesey – Eight of the best Anglesey walks to help you discover more of this magnificent island.
Best things to do on Anglesey – the largest of Welsh Islands
More Beautiful Places to Visit in Wales
Landscapes in Wales – Breathtaking landscapes in Wales you must see
Rivers in Wales – Some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales
Lakes in Wales – Where you find some of the best views in Wales
Landmarks in Wales – famous places in Wales to Explore
Wales Bucket List – 40 Fantastic Places In Wales You Should Not Miss
Things To Do In Barmouth – if you find a more beautiful setting for a seaside town, please let me know