Dresden, Hamburg, Hanseatic towns and much more – here are the best places to visit on the River Elbe
Six World Heritage Sites, two great German cities, one of the most beautiful National Parks in Europe – these are just a few of the best places to visit on the River Elbe.
The Elbe (Labe in Czech) is one of the great rivers of Europe. It flows through two countries (formerly three), rising in the Czech Republic (Czechia) and flowing across Germany and into the North Sea.
Following the epic Elbe – for part or all of its course – is one of the richest, most rewarding cultural journeys you could take in Europe, including the likes of Dresden and Meissen. It’s also a wonderful scenic journey, passing through the rock cities of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland National Parks, ending at a sea snail’s pace in the Wadden Sea World Heritage Site.
Rivers are often natural borders, often between countries or states within countries, as is the case with much of the Elbe’s journey through Germany. But historically the Elbe was also a dividing line between the freer western Germany and Europe and the more restricted east (known as Ostelbien, or East Elbia), especially Prussia, where a form of serfdom continued under the Junker landowners into the early 20th century.
The journey along the Elbe isn’t necessarily one you would undertake in one go. I’ve done it over thirty years, from many trips to Hamburg and around visiting friends, to living in the region between Prague and Dresden for some months recently.
The most popular journey along the Elbe is from Prague to Dresden, joining the Elbe, an hour’s drive north of Prague at Mělník. Elbe river cruises are also popular, usually between Prague and Berlin, with the journey along the river taking up around half of the trip.
I hope you enjoy this guide to the best places to visit along the Elbe, and that you’re inspired to visit at least a part of it one day. Enjoy!
Best Places To Visit On The River Elbe – Czech Republic
Jaroměř
Small town dominated by 18th-century Habsburg fortress
Jaroměř (pronounced ‘Ya-ro-myherzh’) is a medieval town at the confluence of the Elbe (Labe) and Metuji rivers. It expanded significantly in the 18th century when the Josefov (Josefstadt) fortress was built to protect the northern border of the Austrian Empire (also known as the Habsburg Empire) from Prussian attacks.
The fortress is one of several in the Czech Republic from the Baroque period, including the better-known Terezin and Vyšehrad in Prague. It’s well off the beaten track in tourism terms, except for one weekend a year when it hosts Brutal Assault, an extreme metal festival.
Hradec Králové
Yet another Czech hidden gem
The Czech Republic is immensely rich in wonderful cities like Hradec Králové – small, way off the beaten track for international visitors, but full of amazing places to uncover.
It’s a little like the country’s second city, Brno, in that it has such a rich architectural heritage, from Gothic through Renaissance, Baroque and some stunning early 20th-century buildings. Some of these, including the Art Nouveau-inspired City Hall and waterworks, are the work of Josef Gočár, one of the unsung heroes of Czech architecture.
He was also responsible for the House of the Black Madonna, home to the Cubist Museum in Prague. Around the time that Czechoslovakia became independent, the city was known as the Salon of the Republic, thanks largely to his work and that of Jan Kotěra, who was responsible for the Art Nouveau East Bohemian Museum.
To dig deeper into Hradec Kralové’s history, head for Velké náměstí, the city’s monumental main square. The Gothic Cathedral of the Holy Spirit was likely founded in the 14th century, and it’s unusual in the Czech Republic in that its exterior is built from brick rather than stone. Its two towers dominate the old town’s skyline along with the neighbouring White Tower, which was added in the late 16th century.
You can also take a paddle steamboat ride around the city on the Elbe, and visit the nearby site of the 1866 Battle of Königgrätz, in which Prussian forces inflicted a heavy defeat on the Imperial Austrian Army.
Where To Stay: Hotel Vacek Pod Věží – beautiful historic hotel on the city’s main square
Kladruby nad Labem
Chateau and stud farm famous for its horse breeding for almost 450 years
In a country rich in World Heritage Sites, the National Stud Farm at Kladruby and Labem has a lower profile than established ones like Prague and Český Krumlov. Inscribed on the UNESCO List in 2019, the National Stud Farm and Landscape for Breeding Horses is in a relatively quiet part of the country, on the north bank of the River Elbe between Pardubice and Kolín.
The Stud Farm breeds the rare Kladruber horses, and has done so since 1579. The horses at Kladruby are mostly white – bearing some resemblance to the renowned Lipizzaner horses bred in Slovenia – and there is also a black variety bred in Slatinany. The horses were traditionally used for ceremonial and processional purposes – and the royal houses of Denmark and Sweden still do. Otherwise they are also ridden in dressage events.
The tour takes in the Zamek (Chateau), stables and coach garage. There is also the option of a short coach ride pulled by the graceful Kladruber horses.
Kolín
Very underrated historic town, worth a few hours’ stop if you ever get the chance
There are so many beautiful historic towns in the Czech Republic, and because of the sheer weight of numbers – and lack of time – most of us only ever get to see a small number of them. Hence places like Kolín (pronounced Kol-EEN) tend to remain way off the beaten path – despite being on the train line from Prague to Kutná Hora.
It doesn’t look like there’s much to Kolín as you pass through the northern outskirts of the town on a train, but a short walk into the historic centre soon puts you right. The most prominent sight is the Gothic St Bartholomew’s Cathedral, the work of Petr Parléř, architect of St Vitus Cathedral and the Charles Bridge in Prague.
The town’s main square, Karlovo náměstí, has several superb townhouses, and there are also some remnants of the fortified town walls in the upper town. But the most compelling sight in Kolín other than the Cathedral is the exceptional Baroque synagogue, the second oldest in the Czech Republic, built in 1642. The town had a Jewish community as far back as the 14th century, and the Old Jewish Cemetery, one of the oldest in Bohemia, dates back to 1418.
Where To Stay: Pension Pod Věží – lovely guesthouse a short walk from the main square in the old town
Mělník
Where the Vltava River meets the Elbe
Mělník (pronounced Myel-NEEK) s one of the most beautiful towns in Central Bohemia, and is the starting point for larger Elbe river cruises. It’s where the Czech national river, the Vltava, flows into the Elbe, and where Prague to Berlin cruises begin in earnest, usually after a coach transfer from the Czech capital an hour away.
Mělník is well-known as a wine-growing town, and you can see one of its vineyards on the slope directly below its landmark Castle overlooking the Elbe. Its wine cellars are a must for oenophiles, with vast centuries-old oak barrels named after Czech saints.
SS Peter and Paul Church, just along the hilltop ridge from the Castle, is the other main sight in Mělník. The tower commands superb views over the surrounding plain and the rooftops of the Old Town, and the crypt is home to an ossuary with the bones of around 15,000 people kept there.
Mělník’s Old Town deserves a couple of hours’ wandering, with some beautiful old houses and architectural details to be found. One of my favourite places is the quirky café in the Prague Gate Tower, where your order is hauled upstairs to you on a pulley. The view from the windows on the top floor are great too.
Mělník is the best jumping-off point for the Kokořínsko, a magical landscape of forests, lakes and sandstone rock formations. It’s also home to Kokořín Castle, one of the first Czech castles to be restored in the 19th century following an increase in interest in the Romantic movement in Bohemia.
Where To Stay: Pension U Zámku – top-rated guesthouse, brilliant location a minute’s walk the Castle and SS Peter and Paul Church
See Also: Mělník Czech Republic – Best Things To See And Do
Terezin
Fortress town turned into a holding camp for the death camps in Nazi-occupied Poland
Terezin – also known by its German name, Theresienstadt – is one of the most popular day trips from Prague. Many tours run there from the capital, visiting Terezin concentration camp (the Small Fortress) and various memorials around the small, grim barracks town. It’s actually on the River Ohře, a tributary little more than a mile from the Elbe itself.
The Theresienstadt Ghetto was set up by the Nazis as a holding camp for Jews, most of whom would be deported onwards to Auschwitz-Birkenau and the other death camps in Nazi-occupied Poland. The core of the Ghetto was the Small Fortress, originally built during the reign of Empress Maria Theresa in the 18th century like Jaroměř to protect the northern border of the Habsburg Empire from the growing threat of Prussia.
Theresienstadt was cynically portrayed by the Nazis as a model camp, showing a Red Cross delegation around the site and making propaganda films ostensibly showing how well the people living there were being treated. They would often send the people they showed to the gas chambers very soon after filming.
There are also several sites around Terezin town, where people were also confined, again in terrible conditions. The Ghetto Museum on the main square shows the artwork of children who had known no other life than persecution, and some of their harrowing messages of hopelessness have been preserved.
The Magdeburg Barracks Museum in the town is the third and final major stop on most Terezin guided tours, but you can explore further yourself. One of the most poignant places is the hidden prayer room and preserved apartment just behind one of the main streets.
Tours: This Terezin tour from Prague includes visits to the Small Fortress and Ghetto Museum plus transfers
Where To Stay: Terezin is a grim place – stay across the river in Litoměřice instead.
Litoměřice
Gorgeous undiscovered historic town full of Renaissance and Baroque treasures
Litoměřice – Leitmeritz – is one of the most beautiful places to visit on the River Elbe. It’s a longstanding established Elbe river cruise stop, but it only receives a trickle of visitors compared to the likes of Prague, and considerably less English-speaking visitors than Terezin, just across the river.
We spent a month in Litoměřice, so became very familiar with its many charms. It’s a beautiful Renaissance and Baroque town on the right bank of the Elbe, known widely across the Czech Republic for its wines, grown just to the west of the town around Velké Žernoseky. In the summer months you can hike or cycle around the vineyards there and sample wines while enjoying the scenery of the conical hills of the Central Bohemian Uplands.
Litoměřice town is a delight. The main square is stunning, with a lovely Renaissance sgraffito house, a townhouse with a chalice (yes, a cup) rooftop tower and the superb All Saints Church with a rare and dramatic tent-shaped roof. There’s also a fine Baroque Cathedral on the nearby hilltop, and a network of tunnels underneath the main square – which you can access via the atmospheric Radnični sklipek restaurant there.
Litoměřice is also a good base if you plan to explore the area more slowly. If you do, don’t miss Baroque Ploskovice Castle, which has featured in a great many period movies including Milos Forman’s 1984 classic Amadeus.
Tours: This day tour takes you to Terezin, Bohemian Switzerland, Bastei Bridge and the lovely town of Litoměřice– a fantastic itinerary.
Where To Stay: Hotel Apollon – lovely 3-star very close to the Old Town – with the best view in town from near the top of the staircase
See Also: Things To Do In Litoměřice and A Czech Country Christmas – A Short Story
Ústí nad Labem
I’ve included Ústi (Aussig in German) in an upcoming article on Unloved Cities In Europe. I’ve passed through this industrial city many times, and stopped there five or six times. It has a few things to see, but with so much more to see close by, it’s somewhere you’re unlikely to linger long.
The irony is that Ústi has such a beautiful setting, at the northern end of the České Středohoři (Central Bohemian Uplands). As you approach the city from the south, the clifftop ruin of Střekov Castle raises expectations for a moment, and then you look down at the Elbe, with an unsightly bridge industrial right below it. That was the one postcard-perfect view in town, rather blighted. Still, the castle is well worth a visit, commanding superb views back upriver.
There’s not a lot else to see in Ústi. The church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – next to the Forum shopping mall – is the most impressive building in town, built in the 14th century with a tower that is over 200 feet tall. You might notice that the tower leans (my son did, I didn’t), a result of damage caused by bombing near the end of the Second World War in 1945.
We also visited Ústi Zoo, a short tram ride east of the town centre. If you explore the Zoo it’ll boost your fitness as several of the animals’ enclosures (including giraffes and zebras) are at the top of a very steep hill. It’s also home to the oldest orangutan in a European zoo – he resides near the Zoo entrance at the bottom of the hill.
Where To Stay: Clarion Congress Hotel – the best option in the centre of Usti
Děčín
The larger gateway to Bohemian Switzerland, and a very pleasant town too
Děčín is the next major town on the Elbe, and is most widely known as one of the gateways to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park (Park Narodni České Švýcarsko). This is the southern part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains range, much of which is across the border and downriver in Germany. The German part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains is the Saxon Switzerland National Park (Sachsische Schweiz). Together they are sometimes referred to as the Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland, or Bohemian-Saxon Switzerland.
Buses run from Děčín to Hřensko via some of the main sights in the National Park, which I’ll cover in the next section on Hřensko.
The town of Děčín is also worth a stop. The main sight is Děčín Castle, a Baroque palace on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Elbe. It was in the hands of the wealthy Thun-Hohenstein family for over 300 years, and they were responsible for its present appearance, removing traces of an earlier castle. They welcomed many prominent guests including Fryderyk Chopin, whose stay inspired him to write the Děčín Waltz.
If you have time, it’s also worth taking time to see the beautiful Art Nouveau synagogue on Žižkova, a ten-minute walk from Děčín train station (Děčín hl n).
Where To Stay: Hotel Česká Koruna – great 3-star on the town’s main square
Hřensko
The tiny village of Hřensko is the other main gateway to the Bohemian Switzerland, and it’s closer to some of the main sights than Děčín. It’s a very quaint, picturesque village that owes its existence to tourism. It’s a riverside woodland idyll, very reminiscent of the village of Betws-y-Coed in Snowdonia, North Wales.
The Elbe Sandstone Mountains are a series of rock pinnacles and ‘rock cities’, similar to other regions in the Czech Republic including the gorgeous Bohemian Paradise (Český ráj) region about 50 miles to the southeast.
Hřensko is the closest base for visiting the Pravčická brána (Pravčická Gate), a magnificent natural sandstone arch 4 km from the village. A path also leads from the village to Edmund’s Gorge (Edmundova soutěska), a beautiful walk along the Kamenice (Kamnitz in German) Gorge, which you can also enjoy on a boat trip.
Much of the area was devastated by fires in the summer of 2022, but the forests and landscape are gradually recovering and both these sites have recently been reopened.
If you’re travelling by train, you can take the slower local train between Děčín and Bad Schandau, alighting at Schöna for the short ferry ride across the river to Hřensko on the Czech side of the Elbe.
Tours: This excellent Bohemian Switzerland tour from Prague takes you to the main sights in Bohemian Switzerland – and Bastei Bridge in Germany
Where To Stay: Hotel Praha – grand traditional 4-star hotel in stuuning setting overlooking Kamenice river
Best Places To Visit On The River Elbe – Germany
Königstein
The Saxon Bastille – but this one was never stormed
After crossing into Germany, the first town of any size that the Elbe passes is Bad Schandau, a spa town with some lovely medieval houses, a gorgeous tramway (the Kirnitzschtalbahn to the Lichtenhainer waterfall) and the National Park visitor centre. However, the main highlight of this stretch of the Elbe lies a few miles beyond – the forbidding Festung Königstein.
This enormous fortress was known as the ‘Saxon Bastille’ and it occupies a hilltop 800 feet (240 metres) above the river. It was founded as early as 1233, and remained under the control of the Kingdom of Bohemia until around 1459. The 13th century Castle Chapel is the oldest part of the building to survive, and its 152-metre-deep well was dug between 1563 and 1569.
The rest of Königstein dates from three subsequent building phases, in the late 16th century, then between 1619 and 1681, and finally from 1722 to 1725. The result is a colossus of castle, with a circuit of stout, thick walls over a mile (1.8 km) long.
Königstein was never captured in battle. It was used more as a place of refuge, both for Saxon kings and, during the First and Second World Wars, for valuable artworks from the Zwinger Palace in Dresden. The Castle is now a Museum affiliated to the excellent Museum of Military History in Dresden.
You can reach Königstein on the S1 S-Bahn train from Dresden – just make sure you board the train terminating at Bad Schandau, and not the one which runs in the opposite direction to Meissen!
Tours: This day tour to Saxon Switzerland from Dresden takes in both Königstein and Bastei.
Where To Stay: Hotel Lindenhof – lovely 3-star hotel overlooking the Elbe and mountains
Rathen and Bastei Bridge
A totally improbable bridge between rock pinnacles – worth travelling a very long way to see for yourself
Rathen is the starting point for the popular hike to the magnificent Bastei Bridge, the most popular attraction in the Saxon Switzerland National Park.
The stone bridge was built in the 19th century, linking a series of soaring 200-metre-high sandstone pillars rising up from river level. The views of it (from surrounding high viewpoints, including the Ferdinandstein outlook) and from it (over the Elbe Valley below) are astonishing, with fairytale rock chimneys dominating the landscape.
If you’re on a River Elbe cruise, you’d stop at either Bad Schandau or Rathen then you’d be driven to the start of the walk up the mountain to Bastei. There is also a hotel where you can stop by for a drink or meal – or even an overnight stay.
Check out my guide to visiting Bastei Bridge for much more detailed information.
Tours: This day tour from Dresden includes visits to both Bastei Bridge and Bohemian Switzerland.
Where To Stay: Amselgrundschlösschen – superb small country hotel with restaurant, ideally placed for the hike up to Bastei Bridge
Pirna
Hidden gem in plain sight just a few miles from Dresden
The riverside town of Pirna is the northern gateway to the Saxon Switzerland National Park, but its proximity to Dresden (only around 20 minutes by train) means that it often gets overlooked. It’s a pity, as it has a beautiful old town (Altstadt) and several things to see, but at least it’s one of the easier day trips from Dresden.
The main square, the Marktplatz, is the subject of one of the most renowned works of one the 18th century’s most famous painters, Bernardo Bellotto. He often referred to himself as Canaletto, after his uncle Antonio Canal, known for his remarkable veduti paintings of his native Venice. Bellotto was a court painter in both Dresden and Warsaw, and was also known for his realistic veduti views. Pirna is the only small town he painted , and the best-known of his paintings of the town is The Marketplace at Pirna, held in the Old Masters Gallery in Dresden, and it’s re-created annually by locals.
The other must-see in Pirna is the superb Marienkirche, one of the outstanding late Gothic churches in Germany. Its nave vault is breathtaking, and it’s just behind the main square.
Two very different museums shed light on Pirna’s 20th-century history. The Pirna Sonnenstein Memorial in the hilltop Castle remembers the 14,000 souls murdered there by the Nazis as part of their secret Aktion T4 scheme. Six psychiatric hospitals around the country were used as killing centres, where people with various disabilities were murdered, usually by poison or gassing. Many of the same personnel involved in Aktion T4 went on to play leading roles in the Nazi death camps in occupied Poland.
The DDR Museum looks back on life in and the history of Communist East Germany, formerly the German Democratic Republic. It’s a more light-hearted affair than the Stasi Museum Dresden, a few miles downstream, with a lot of exhibits on everyday life, with apartment rooms furnished 1980s-style. There are numerous DDR Museums like this around eastern Germany and this is one of the best of them.
Where To Stay – Pirn’scher Hof – Hotel Garni – a hotel in a 300-year-old building on one of the most beautiful squares in Germany
See Also: 12 Best Things To Do In Pirna
Schloss Pillnitz
The favourite palaces of Elector Augustus the Strong – until he built yet another one
Schloss Pillnitz is a complex of three palaces on the right bank of the Elbe between Pirna and Dresden. Two of them – the riverside Wasserpalais and hillside Bergpalais – were built by Elector Augustus the Strong, the enormously wealthy ruler who turned Dresden into a Baroque fantasyland.
Augustus eventually gravitated to another of his palaces near Dresden, Schloss Moritzburg, so spent relatively little time at Pillnitz. These older palaces now house the Museum of Decorative Arts, part of the Dresden State Art Collection.
The third palace, the Neues Palais, was added in the 19th century, and now houses the Castle Museum. The grounds also include a Palm House, a Baroque Garden and an English-style Garden from the 18th century.
This regular boat trip to Pillnitz runs from the quay at Terrassenufer, just below the Bruhlsche Terrasse in the centre of Dresden.
See Also: 15 Best Castles Near Dresden To Visit
Loschwitz
Dresden suburb where the Belle Epoque never went away
Loschwitz is one of the most beautiful city suburbs in Europe to visit. It’s around 5 miles (8 km) east of the centre of Dresden, on the right bank of the River Elbe. It’s very different to the rest of the city, with most of its turn of the 20th century buildings escaping the bombings that devastated the historic core of the city in February 1945.
The first sight you’re greeted with is the Blaues Wunder (Blue Wonder), the bridge linking Loschwitz with Blasewitz on the opposite bank. Cross the blue bridge and you’ll soon find the Standseilbahn, the steep funicular railway that climbs past the Art Nouveau and Functionalist villas of this gorgeous suburb. It wouldn’t have looked very different 100 years ago.
The nearby Schwebebahn (suspension railway) is a much rarer phenomenon. There are few operational railways like this in the world – the oldest is in the western German city of Wuppertal. The train is pulled up a series of pylons, eventually reaching the top of the hill where you’re rewarded with a superb view of the suburb, the Elbe and Dresden in the distance.
Just beyond Loschwitz, don’t miss the three Elbschlösser around a mile downstream (towards Dresden). The three palaces (Schloss Eckberg, Lingnerschloss and Schloss Albrechtsberg) were built in the 19th century, and were part of the Dresden and Elbe River Landscape World Heritage Site which was delisted in 2009 after a new bridge deemed to spoil the landscape was built between the palaces and the centre of Dresden.
See Also: 10 Best Things To Do In Loschwitz Dresden
Dresden
The showy – but stunning ‘Florence on the Elbe’
Dresden, along with Hamburg, is one of the two great cities to visit on the River Elbe. The historic capital of Saxony became a great centre of architecture and the arts under Elector Augustus the Strong in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, and became one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, known at the time as the ‘Florence on the Elbe’.
On February 13th 1945, most of the city was destroyed by an Allied bombing raid meant to break German morale. Most of it was rebuilt following the Second World War, culminating in the completion of the landmark Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) in 2005.
Dresden ideally deserves two or three days of your time. Many of its sights are concentrated in a small area around the Altstadt on the south (left) bank of the river, including the Frauenkirche, the Albertinum Art Gallery and the Zwinger Palace. The latter contains the extraordinary Porcelain Collection and the Mathematics and Physics Salon, a small exhibition that will captivate anyone with an interest in science.
The Zwinger is also home to the magnificent Alte Meister Gemäldegalerie, one of the finest art collections in Europe, including Raphael’s Sistine Madonna and a wealth of other Italian and Dutch works from the 16th to 18th centuries. Check out my guide to visiting Dresden Old Masters Gallery for more detailed information.
Another Dresden must-see is the Residenzschloss, sometimes called Dresden Castle, another of the palaces of the Electors of Saxony. Most people head straight for the Historic Green Vault (Historisches Grünes Gewölbe), a suite of ten rooms laid out by Augustus the Strong to showcase some of his finest treasures (many precious stones and gold ornaments). Entry for this is on a set timed ticket which has to be booked in advance. Expect much policing of any photography, which detracts from the experience a little. It’s also ironic that it’s more difficult to emerge from there with a photograph than it is to steal jewellery from there, as happened in 2019.
The rest of the Residenzschloss is fantastic. The New Green Vault is more enjoyable as you can get up close to the treasures and photograph them if you so wish. The State Apartments are as over-the-top lavish as you might expect, and there are also amazing collections in the Armoury, including the Ottoman tents in the Turkish Chamber, and the superb Coin Cabinet (Münzkabinett).
Dresden is also one of the best Christmas cities in Europe, and the Striezelmarkt, on the Altmarkt square, is the oldest Christmas market on the continent. The Dresden Medieval Christmas Market – one of the best Christmas Markets I’ve ever visited – is held in the Stallhof, the stables courtyard of the Residenzschloss, and normally runs into the New Year, long after the Striezelmarkt has closed for the season.
Dresden also makes a wonderful base for exploring this part of the River Elbe, with the Bastei Bridge, Meissen and Pirna all easy day trips from Dresden.
Tours in Dresden:
Dresden Old Town Walking Tour – all the sights in 2.5 hours
Zwinger Palace Entry Ticket – entry to Old Masters Gallery, Porcelain Collection and Mathematics and Physics Salon
Dresden Castle Day Ticket – covering all the exhibitions except the Historic Green Vault
Where To Stay In Dresden
***** – Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski – 5-star luxury next door to Dresden Castle and the Zwinger Palace
**** – Hotel Schloss Eckberg – high-end luxury in one of the three famous Elbe Castles overlooking the river
*** – Star G Hotel Premium Dresden – great mid-range option overlooking the central Altmarkt square
For more information on Dresden, check out these additional articles on the city:
One Day In Dresden– a 24-hour itinerary for the Florence on the Elbe
Churches in Dresden – 6 outstanding churches to visit in the city
Dresden Landmarks – a quick guide to 19 unmissable Dresden sights
Meissen
One of the most beautiful towns in Europe, where porcelain was made for the first time in the West
Before the rise of Dresden and the Kingdom of Saxony, the major power in this eastern corner of (what is now) Germany was the Margraviate of Meissen. The Electorate of Saxony assumed power in 1423, but Meissen remained capital until 1464. Although in some ways its best days were to come.
As well as being one of the best places to visit on the River Elbe, Meissen is one of the most beautiful small towns in Europe, The town is dominated by the hilltop citadel on which the Albrechtsburg Castle and Meissen Cathedral stand. Together they make one of the most impressive landmarks in Germany, and a highlight of any journey along the Elbe.
The Cathedral was built between the 13th and early 15th centuries, a fine example of German Gothic architecture whose spires were added in the early 20th century. The Princes Chapel houses several tombs of members of the Wettin dynasty that ruled Saxony all the way through to 1806. Frederick I and his successor Frederick II are both interred in the Chapel.
The Albrechtsburg was built between 1471 and the end of the 15th century. It’s essentially a Gothic residential palace, rare in that all of its ceilings are stone vaulted (so no expense spared!) Under Augustus the Strong, Augustus II the Strong set up the Meissen Porcelain Manufactory in the Castle, where it remained for the following 200 years until its move to the present site in the 19th century.
The Porcelain Factory is well worth a visit, as they have an audio-guided tour through the whole production process, and a vast range of ‘white gold’ products to peruse and purchase afterwards. They can also arrange shipping to your home address. You can buy your Meissen Porcelain Factory tickets here.
While in Meissen, take an hour or two to simply wander. The Altstadt (Old Town) has hundreds of 15th to 17th century houses, lining steep narrow cobbled streets and stairways leading up the hill to the Castle and Cathedral. It’s a wonderful place just to get lost in for a while.
Tours: This Dresden to Meissen Elbe cruise is a wonderful trip past the area’s vineyards, and you get a three-hour stopover in Meissen to explore the town.
Where To Stay: Romantik Hotel Burgkeller Residenz Kerstinghaus – 19th-century hotel on the beautiful Domplatz, next to the Cathedral and Albrechtsburg Castle
See Also: 10 Best Things To Do In Meissen
Torgau
Renaissance town with stunning Castle, the world’s first Protestant church and a popular stop for World War Two buffs
Torgau is one of the most intriguing places to visit on the River Elbe, with enough to captivate medieval and modern history aficionados. It’s one of the easier day trips from Leipzig, less than an hour’s train ride away, otherwise it’s another Elbe cruise port of call.
You could easily see Torgau in a few hours. The impressive 16th-century Schloss Hartenfels – one of the gems of the German Renaissance – overlooks the Elbe. The main thing to see is the exterior of the building, and its courtyard, where you’ll find a wonderful spiral staircase and some beautifully restored sculptures.
Most of the castle is occupied by offices, so there’s only a relatively small exhibition space. And the Castle Chapel is the first church in the world to have been built to specifications for Protestant worship – and Martin Luther had a direct say in how it should be laid out. The Chapel is on UNESCO’s Tentative List, so will likely be inscribed as a World Heritage Site some time in the early to mid-2030s. Luther’s wife, Katharina von Bora, died in Torgau, and is buried in the Marienkirche, a short walk beyond the Castle.
Torgau is also popular with tourists with an interest in World War Two. On 25th April 1945, the US Army and Soviet Red Army met there less than two weeks before the fall of Berlin. There is a Soviet memorial between the Castle and the river, and a smaller American memorial, celebrating the ‘Spirit of the Elbe’, in a field a 5-minute walk across the river from the town.
Where To Stay: Pension Wehner – the best guesthouse in Torgau, on the edge of the Altstadt (Old Town)
See Also: 10 Best Things To Do In Torgau
Lutherstadt Wittenberg
The ‘cradle of the Reformation’ – and a beautiful town too
Few figures in German history have had a comparable impact as 16th-century church reformer Martin Luther. He wasn’t the first reformer to openly question some aspects of the Catholic Church and its teachings (Jan Hus from Prague preceded him by over a century), but his message spread far more widely, ultimately leading to a schism in the church and the Reformation, the birth of the Protestant Church in Germany and Central Europe.
Wittenberg was where it all started. Luther was a monk, and later Professor of Theology at the new University of Wittenberg. In 1517 he nailed his 95 Theses to the door of the Schlosskirche (Castle Church, also known as All Saints Church) in the town. In this document he railed in particular against the Catholic practice of selling indulgences, when people would pay in the hope of absolution from their sins.
The town was awarded the honorary title Lutherstadt, and many of the sights in Wittenberg have a Martin Luther connection. As well as the Schlosskirche, where Luther is buried, you shouldn’t miss the Stadtkirche St Marien (Town Church of St Mary), where Luther frequently preached, and where he and Katharina von Bora married.
You can also visit his former home, the Lutherhaus, a large palace that accommodated him, Katharina and their six children, with room for plenty more. The rooms where Luther and his family lived have been kept as faithfully as possible to how they would have looked during his lifetime.
Tours: This Wittenberg walking tour covers all the Luther-associated sites in 2 hours.
Where To Stay: Best Western Soibelmanns Lutherstadt Wittenberg – stylish hotel in the heart of Wittenberg Old Town
See Also: 15 Best Day Trips From Leipzig
Dessau-Rosslau
World Heritage Central with Bauhaus buildings and Enlightenment-influenced garden landscape
Two of the Elbe’s six current World Heritage Sites are in and around Dessau. Both celebrate and preserve enormous leaps forward in design, albeit in very different spheres, and depending on your passions, you could easily spend two or three days here.
Dessau was, for seven years (1925 to 1932), the centre of the Bauhaus architectural and design movement. It had originally been based in Weimar, where it proved unpopular, hence the move to a new home. The style, developed by Walter Gropius, can be described as modernist and minimalist, and had a profound influence on architecture across the world throughout the rest of the 20th century.
The three main Bauhaus sights in Dessau are the famous Bauhaus building (pictured), the nearby Bauhaus Museum (containing many small artefacts) and the Masters Houses, semi-detached homes to the likes of Gropius and artists Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee and Lyonel Feininger.
The other World Heritage Site in the vicinity is the Garden Kingdom of Dessau-Wörlitz, an innovative designed landscape inspired both by English parkland and ancient buildings visited on a Grand Tour of Italy. It was the first landscape garden on the European continent, and intended to be accessible to the general public, in line with the contemporary principles of the Enlightenment.
The buildings of the Gartenreich also had a strong influence on later German architecture. Schloss Wörlitz, the centrepiece of Wörlitz Park with a Roman-style portico, was the first Neoclassical building in Germany, and inspired thousands more.
The Garden Kingdom also borders the Middle Elbe Biosphere Reserve, and area immensely popular with cyclists and birdwatchers. It’s a haven for wildlife, with over 130 species of bees and 250 species of birds.
Tours: If you speak German, this guided cycling tour of the Bauhaus sights and the Garden Kingdom is a fantastic way to see the area.
Where To Stay: Das Schlafgut Dessau – great mid-range hotel a few minutes’ walk from the main Bauhaus sights
Magdeburg
Magdeburg is the much-overlooked capital of Saxony-Anhalt, itself one of the best unexplored regions in Europe. It’s one of the best hidden gems in Germany, and after visiting you’ll be left wondering why it isn’t far more widely known.
It’s renowned as the city of Otto the Great, King of the East Franks (the forerunner of modern Germany) between 936 and 973. Otto and his English-born wife Eadgyth were buried in the original Magdeburg Cathedral, which Otto partly funded. The Gothic Cathedral – one of the most impressive churches in Germany – has been destroyed three times since then, most recently during the Second World War, but his tomb survives.
If your time is limited, I recommend visiting two other outstanding buildings nearby, both of which are just a short walk from the Cathedral. The first is the Kunstmuseum Magdeburg (Magdeburg Art Museum), housed in the breathtaking Romanesque church and monastery of Unser Lieben Frauen (Our Dear Ladies). The art exhibits are mostly contemporary – it’s a brilliant use of the spaces within the complex, and a fascinating contrast between two periods almost a thousand years apart.
Finally, don’t miss the Green Citadel, the pink apartment complex built by Austrian architect Friedensreich Hundertwasser. Some people view him as something of a latter-day Antoni Gaudi, and there are some similarities – neither of them stuck to straight lines very often, for one thing. The complex has 55 differently designed apartments, with decoration ranging from colourfully painted pillars to golden globes and domes. The rooftop has already matured into a mostly green space. The Green Citadel was the last work of Hundertwasser, completed in 2005, five years after his death.
Tours: This Magdeburg walking tour is the ideal way to show you around this hidden gem of a city.
Where To Stay: artHotel Magdeburg – the ultimate design hotel – in Hundertwasser’s Green Citadel!
Tangermünde
Magnificent under-the-radar town on the Elbe
Tangermünde is a small Hanseatic town on the left bank of the Elbe, 20 miles northeast of the state capital Magdeburg. It’s one of the most complete (i.e. most rebuilt) towns in northern Germany, with a superb red brick Gothic castle, several fine towers, the magnificent St Stephen’s Church and an elaborate Rathaus (Town Hall), one ofr the most striking buildings in northern Germany.
The town grew in the 14th century, partly because it was one of the favoured residences of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. Tangermünde also grew wealthy from charging tolls to traffic along the Elbe – hence such an impressive collection of buildings.
The town’s fortunes began to decline in the 17th century, partly precipitated by a fire which destroyed most of its historic buildings. These were rebuilt over the following decades, and several streets were reconstructed with half-timbered houses. But its heyday was over, and in some ways becoming something of a backwater helped preserve its historic core.
This was severely damaged during one of the last battles of World War Two, as the Allies closed in on Berlin. The rebuilding began in earnest after the reunification of Germany in 1990.
Where To Stay: Ringhotel Schloss Tangermünde – superb hotel in Tangermunde Castle, rooms with views of Elbe or Gardens
Stendal
Overlooked brick Gothic beauty, capital of the rural Altmark region
Northern Germany – especially along the Baltic coast – has some outstanding brick Gothic architecture, and the Hanseatic city of Stendal is one of the best places to see it. It’s the largest town in the Altmark, a historic rural area of northern Saxony-Anhalt and Brandenburg.
Stendal is a few miles away from the left bank of the Elbe and Tangermünde. The city is believed to have been founded in the mid-12th century by Albrecht ‘the Bear’ of Brandenburg, and its major buildings were added over the following 300 years.
The most prominent sight in Stendal is the twin-spired St Mary’s Church, which towers above the fine Rathaus and statue of Roland, which was completed in 1525. The statue signifies city rights and freedoms, and there are other examples across northern Germany.
There are also three superb brick Gothic town gates, the imposing St Nicholas Church and St Catherine’s Monastery, which houses the Altmark Museum.
The winner of the 2025 Grand Jury Prize at the Cannes Film Festival, Sound of Falling (known as In die Sonne Schauen in German) is set on a farm in the Altmark region.
Where To Stay: Altstadt Hotel – beautiful hotel in the heart of historic Stendal
Lauenburg
Red brick Gothic beauty at the southernmost point in Schleswig Holstein
Lauenburg is the last town on the Elbe before the tide begins to have an impact on water levels a few miles downstream at Geesthacht. It’s a small, very pretty town on the north bank of the River Elbe, the southernmost in the Land of Schleswig-Holstein. Some of my close friends live in villages to the north of the town, so I’ve been lucky to see it a few times over the last thirty years or so.
Lauenburg’s Altstadt (old town) is small, just a few streets, packed with red brick and timber framed houses, mostly from the 17th century. The Maria-Magdalenen-Kirche is much older, dating from the 13th century. And just one tower remains of its much-diminished ducal Castle, a few minutes’ walk from the river on Amtsplatz.
Lauenburg is an hour from Hamburg by train – you need to change at Lüneburg.
Where To Stay: Lauenburger Mühle – lovely hotel next to windmill with great views over Lauenburg and the Elbe
Lüneburg
Once Germany’s salt capital, also famous for its glorious heather displays in summer
Lüneburg is a few miles from the Elbe river but I’ve included it among the best places to visit on the Elbe because the Elbe Marshes extend south as far as the town.
Lüneburg was one of the wealthiest towns in medieval Germany, and it shows. Like its Hanseatic counterpart Gdansk in Poland, it’s full of handsome red brick gabled townhouses, which only the wealthiest could afford. The town also has three brick Gothic churches, the most impressive of which within is the simple Nikolaikirche, with a stunning star-ribbed vault. And you can’t miss the tower of St Johannis Church, which rises – and leans slightly – 361 feet (110 metres) above the town.
For more on the history of Lüneburg, it’s well worth visiting the German Salt Museum for an hour or so, and also stopping by to admire the 14th-century Crane, which was used to haul salt and herring when Lüneburg was a busy port.
If you’re visiting in summer (usually early August to early September) I strongly recommend at least a few hours exploring the Lüneburger Heide (Lüneburg Heath). At this time of year pink-purple heather carpets the landscape, and it’s the biggest expanse of heathland in Central Europe.
Tours: This 2-hour Lüneburg walking touris a great introduction to the town.
Where To Stay: Anno 1433 – beautifully restored 15th-century hotel in Lüneburg’s Altstadt
Hamburg
The great port city on the Elbe
Hamburg is the second truly great city on the Elbe, and by far the largest. It’s also the second largest city in Germany and third largest port in Europe, with a population of around 1.9 million.
Its maritime connections make it a great melting pot of a city, 50 miles or so from the mouth of the Elbe and the North Sea. Hamburg is built around water – not just the lower reaches of the Elbe, but also the two Alster lakes just to the north of the city.
It’s a city with many different sides – from the boutiques of the Jungfernstieg and Alsterarkaden to the sleazy underbelly of the Reeperbahn, and the tallest combined skyline of medieval spires in Europe see my article on the 16 best Hamburg Landmarks for more information) to probably the world’s only punk rock football team, FC St Pauli.
Hamburg is also home to the Elbphilharmonie, a new world-class concert hall and an immediate contender for one of the most famous landmarks in Germany. It’s next to the Speicherstadt, the World Heritage warehouse district, and the Kontorhaus office buildings, including the Brick Expressionist Chilehaus.
I’ve written an article about spending One Day in Hamburg, but it really is not enough. Not when you could spend hours at the outstanding Hamburg City History Museum, one of the best city museums in Europe, or take the kids to Miniatur Wonderland. This includes the world’s largest miniature railway, mini-versions of the main Hamburg sights and the likes of Schloss Neuschwanstein and the Grand Canyon.
All this and I haven’t even got around to Hamburg’s Beatles connection. Before the Fab Four made it big, they honed their art in clubs in the streets around An Grosser Freiheit, off the lower end of the Reeperbahn. This Reeperbahn, St Pauli and Hamburg Beatles tour takes you around their former haunts.
Another great Hamburg tour is the Hafenrundfahrt, or Harbour Cruise. This Hamburg Harbour cruise also includes a trip around the canals of the Speicherstadt.
Where To Stay In Hamburg
***** – The Westin Hamburg Elbphilharmonie – five-star luxury in the stunning Elbphilharmonie building overlooking Hamburg harbour
**** – PierDREI Hotel Hafen City Hamburg – stylish modern hotel close to Hafen City and Speicherstadt districts
*** – Motel One Hamburg Am Michel – excellent chain hotel, a 3-minute walk from the landmark Michaelis Church
Blankenese
Pretty hillside and riverside town, a popular day trip from Hamburg
Blankenese is to Hamburg what Loschwitz is to Dresden – one of the most affluent and picturesque suburbs in the city, and a popular day trip destination from the big city.
It’s a hilly former fishing village with great river beaches (Elbstrand Blankenese and Falkensteiner Ufer) either side of the suburb, four lighthouses, parks and the Treppenviertel (‘stairway quarter’) among the hilltop villas where you are rewarded with superb views towards the Elbe estuary.
There are also some great cafes and restaurants near the ferry terminal and up the hill in the village. The ferry, which departs from St Pauli Landungsbrücken, also calls at the city beach at Övelgönne, and the S1 S-Bahn train service also runs to Blankenese from the city centre.
Tours: This Blankenese walking tour takes you all around the village, including the Treppenviertel, in two hours.
Where To Stay: Baurs Park – highly-rated hotel close to both the Elbe and Treppenviertel
Stade
Hanseatic beauty and long-eclipsed rival to Hamburg
Stade, on the left bank of the Elbe a few miles beyond Blankenese, is one of the less-known Hanseatic towns along the river – and one of the most beautiful. I think part of the reason it’s rather off the beaten path is that it’s always been overshadowed by Hamburg, and time-poor visitors often can’t squeeze somewhere like Stade into their itinerary.
I’m so glad that I did. While in Hamburg on a photographic assignment one day, with no let-up in the drizzle, I followed the S3 S-Bahn to the end of the line in Stade. And I got a wonderful surprise.
Stade is gorgeous, with many buildings a mixture of Hanseatic red brick with fachwerk timber frames. There are also two fine churches – the Gothic St Wilhadi and the 12th-century SS Cosmas & Damian, which had a Baroque overhaul in the 17th century.
The Altstadt is located on an island, and the most picturesque part is around the Hansehafen (Hansa Harbour). And if you have an hour or two spare, don’t miss the exquisite Freilichtmuseum (Open Air Museum) which features several stunning relocated buildings from the surrounding area.
Where To Stay: Hotel am Fischmarkt – perfect central location, historic setting, some rooms with timber-beamed ceilings.
Cuxhaven
The end of the line for the Elbe, as it flows into the North Sea
All good things sadly come to an end, even this joyful virtual voyage along the River Elbe. The wooden Kugelbake tower, at the northern end of the town, marks the end of the Elbe and beginning of the open sea, and there are also beaches around the town with characteristic beach cabins which you also see on the nearby East Frisian Islands. This is somewhere Germans come on holiday – like the Baltic coast to the east – but where relatively few international visitors venture.
The countryside and coast around Cuxhaven are as flat as a pancake, so it’s ideal for cycling. The town has an excellent Museum, Windstärke 10 (which means Force 10 Wind), an amalgamation of a fishing and a shipwreck museum in a former fish market hall.
Cuxhaven is also the gateway to the Wadden Sea, an extensive World Heritage Site stretching from the Dutch coast in the west, along the northwest German coast to Denmark. The area lies between the Frisian Islands of the North Sea and the low-lying coast of this part of mainland Europe, with vast tidal saltmarshes and mudflats, a major haven for bird and marine life.
Tours: This return cruise from Cuxhaven to Sylt gives you around six hours a gorgeous beach island in the North Sea.
Where To Stay: Best Western Hotel Das Donners – great location, close to marina, beach and town centre
Getting To The River Elbe
The three best international airports for reaching the River Elbe are Prague, Berlin and Hamburg. Where you fly to will depend on where you plan to visit.
Best Places To Visit On The River Elbe – Final Thoughts
I hope you have enjoyed my guide to the River Elbe, which is a wonderful part of Europe to explore. Parts of it are well-known, while others are way off the beaten track.
The Elbe may not be the focal point of your journey, rather somewhere you might visit for a day trip or two along the way.
So take a look at these articles which cover, Prague, Berlin and other places close to the Elbe in both the Czech Republic and Germany:
54 Best Things To Do In Prague – By A Local
22 Most Beautiful Churches in Prague
Karlštejn Castle – the mightiest of Czech castles, the purpose-built home to the Bohemian Crown Jewels
22 Best Day Trips From Prague – By A Local
18 Best Things To Do In Kutna Hora – a 15-minute train ride from Kolin
17 Best Places To Visit In Eastern Germany
20 Best Things To Do In Quedlinburg – the best place to see medieval timber-framed houses in Europe
16 Best Things To Do In Goslar – the great Rammelsberg Mine and an exquisite Old Town
21 Famous Berlin Landmarks – your quick guide to the main sights to see in Berlin