best places to visit in bohemian paradise image of hruba castle window in autumn cesky raj czech republic

10 Best Places To Visit In Bohemian Paradise – Český ráj

Romantic Bohemian castles and towering sandstone rock cities in one of the most beautiful corners of Central Europe

There are many gorgeous places to visit in Bohemian Paradise, a wondrous area northeast of Prague. Most of you might struggle to spare a day to see this little-known UNESCO Geopark. But read on and there’s a good chance you’ll be wishing you had a week spare to explore this hidden gem of the Czech Republic.

It’s called Paradise because it’s breathtaking. The Český ráj, as it’s known in Czech, has several ‘rock cities’, amazing labyrinths of sandstone pillars, tucked away in its forests. Add in some superb Czech castles – from romantic ruins to a French noble family’s palace. Throw in a few few beautiful historic Czech towns and great food and beer, and you may be as hooked as we were.

The area isn’t widely known among English-speaking visitors, but it’s an easy place to drive around, with enough trains and buses to get you to all of the main sights and more.

In this guide I’ll show you the best things to do in Bohemian Paradise, telling you how to get to each and when they’re open.  I’ll also point you in the direction of the best places to stay in the region, not to mention some of the best restaurants and cafes.

Enjoy!

Best Places To Visit In Bohemian Paradise

Jičín

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The main square in Jičín
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An archway in Valdstejn Castle

We based ourselves in Jičín (pronounced ‘Yee-CHEEN’) for our five-day visit to the Český ráj, and strongly recommend it as a base for visiting the area.  If you aren’t staying there, it’s well worth a couple of hours of your time, along with a visit to the nearby Prachov Rocks (Prachovské skály).

The main square, Valdštejnovo náměstí, is the best place to start. It’s one of the prettiest town squares in the Czech Republic, surrounded by arcaded houses on all four sides. The main landmarks on the square are the Valdštejnsky zamek (Wallenstein Castle or Palace) on the south side of the square and the Valdice Gate and Tower a few metres away. My son and I had a great time hauling ourselves up the narrow stairs to the top, and were rewarded with a superb view from the gallery.

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The Valdice Gate which overlooks the main square in Jičín
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The main square in Jičín at dusk
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Market day in Jičín

The Wallenstein Palace houses the small town museum, which is great for kids even though the displays are in Czech only. The square and surrounding streets have some great cafes, the best of which is Kavarna Republika, on the corner of the square.

Many people use Jičín as a base for visiting the nearby Prachov Rocks (Prachovské skály) which I describe in the following section. For further information on the town, check out my guide to the best things to do in Jičín

Prachov Rocks

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Prachov Rocks in autumn
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A footpath between rock towers at Prachov Rocks

This gorgeous complex of natural sandstone towers and pinnacles is one of the great Czech rock cities, up there with the best of Bohemian Switzerland and Adršpach Teplice near the Polish border.

My son and I made two trips to Prachov Rocks to work out our way around the various viewpoints and routes. Online information is scarce, and even a decent knowledge of Czech wasn’t a lot of help. The maps on the information boards are not brilliant either.

I worked out our routes from the Czech Mapy website and app, which I use all over Europe. Translated onto the route maps at Prachov Rocks, the red route is the best, though we also diverted from it at a couple of points to climb down the stairs into the gorge.

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Prachov Rocks from one of the higher viewpoints
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A well-worn staircase up from the gorge at Prachov Rocks

I also recommend the southern part of Prachov Rocks, including around Hotel Pod Šikmou věží. We stopped there for ice cream and coffee, before finding our way into the rock labyrinth. It is one of my son’s favourite ever hikes, with narrow pathways between vast slabs of sandstone soaring into the sky.

Bus 412 leaves Jičín bus station several times a day for Prachov Rocks. The stop where you need to alight isn’t obvious. You’ll see a car park on your left, and as the bus bears right at the corner opposite, you’ll see a stop on the other side of the road. Your stop is just across the road from there, but easy to miss, as we did first time around. Press the stop button when you see the car park. The second time we visited, I played safe by asking the driver to stop at the Muzeum přirody (Nature Museum).

From there, follow the track uphill off the 2816 road. You eventually reach a small kiosk selling souvenirs. It’s not immediately obvious, but this is where you also buy your 60 CZK (€2.40) tickets to visit the Rocks. Unfortunately, they don’t stock maps.

Mnichovo Hradíště

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Mnichovo Hradíště Castle
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The ruins of Valečov Castle

Mnichovo Hradíště is a small town on the western edge of the Bohemian Paradise, and a possible gateway to this part of the region.

There are a few sights in the centre of the historic town, including the fine Baroque Castle (zamek), one of the residences of Albrecht von Wallenstein. The main tour takes you around the Valdštejn family apartments, and other tours take in the rare 19th century theatre and the ornate Baroque chapel of St Anna and Capuchin monastery next door.

The town would make a better base for exploring the Český ráj if there were more bus services in the area. There are some great forest walks 2-3 miles east of the town, taking you to some fascinating rock sites including Valečov Castle and Drabské světničky, a fortress cut into the rock. This is one area where you need a car, as bus services in this corner of Bohemian Paradise are scant. The Drabské světničky fortress – which is a superb vantage point – has also been closed for repairs for two years at the time of writing.

Hrubá Skála

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Hrubá Skála rock city and Castle
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Hruboskalsko rock city

Hrubá Skála – which means ‘rough rock’ in Czech – is a small village with a Castle and rock city 4 miles southwest of the town of Turnov. It’s the start or end point of one of the best hikes in Bohemian Paradise, following the ridge between there and Turnov, passing the Hruboskalsko rock city along the way.

The Castle has one of the most dramatic setting of any castles in the Czech Republic, perched on an outcrop in the forest and surrounded by sandstone pillars. It’s like something out of a fairytale. The best viewpoint of the Castle is a 10-minute walk through the forest just north of the Castle, and another great viewpoint, the Marianska vyhlidka, is ten minutes further on and signposted.

The Castle dates back to 1353, and was intermittently held by the Valdštejn family over the subsequent centuries. It has been destroyed and rebuilt several times, most recently in the 1820s. Some Renaissance elements remain, including the wall decoration around the doorway (pictured), but most of what you see today is from the 19th century. You can visit part of the Castle, worth it for the outstanding views from the tower. Much of it is now given over to the EA Zamecky Hotel Hrubá Skála – where non-guests can eat at the fine restaurant.

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Our Little Man enjoying the view at Hrubá Skála
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A Renaissance-era doorway at Hrubá Skála Castle
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The view over the Bohemian Paradise from Hrubá Skála Castle Tower

Many people visit Hrubá Skála for the hiking, us included. You can opt for short walks around the rock city to the immediate north of the Castle, or head along the ridge towards nearby Valdštejn Castle and Turnov.  

Valdštejn Castle is around halfway along the hike 2 miles (3 km) north of  Hrubá Skála. It pre-dates Hrubá Skála Castle by around 100 years, having been founded in the 13th century by ancestors of the Valdštejn dynasty. It was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 18th century, and you enter via a lovely bridge flanked by statues. Well worth an hour of your time.

The hike gradually descends from the rock city to Turnov, with the last mile and a half passing through the town’s suburbs.

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Rock climbers on the Hruboskalsko

Getting there: Hrubá Skála station is on the Turnov to Jičín train line. You could catch a train to Hrubá Skála and walk uphill (20-25 minutes) from there to the Castle and rock city, then walk from there to Turnov and the train station. The trains run every two hours.

Tour from Prague: This guided day tour includes the Turnov to Hruba Skala hike, plus train each way from Prague. A brilliant day out, which will leave you wanting to see much more of the country beyond the capital.

Turnov

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Turnov
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Hruby Rohozec Castle is on the outskirts of Turnov
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A typical traditional wooden Bohemian farmhouse near Turnov

Turnov, in the northern part of the Geopark, is a similar size to Jičín, and a great base if you’re exploring the northern part of Bohemian Paradise. It’s also known throughout the country for its gemstones and its training college for jewellers.

The centre of town is packed with historic treasures, including three late medieval churches and the only synagogue in North Bohemia to have survived the Nazi occupation. Turnov is also home to the Museum of the Český ráj, where you can find out more about the local gemstones and geology that brought about the stunning landscapes around the town.

As you head out of town on the road north up the Jizera Valley, you pass Hrubý Rohozec Castle on your right. Originally fortified, it was turned into a chateau-style residence in the 16th century. It was eventually acquired by the Austrian noble Desfours family, who held it until the end of the Second World War.

A little further beyond the town, you’ll find the Dlask Farm (Dlaskův statek), an early 18th-century farmhouse much of which is built from wood in typical Bohemian rural style. There are more beautiful examples as you head further away from Turnov, including at Přišovice and the nearby town of Zelezny Brod.

Malá Skála

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Mala Skala and its clifftop chapel
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Frýdštejn Castle

Malá Skála – ‘little rock’ in Czech – is the northernmost place to visit in Bohemian Paradise, around 10 km (7 miles) north of Turnov. I found out about this amazing place from a $3 Czech language guidebook I found in a shop in Prague, and I’d recommend the trip there after seeing Prachov Rocks and Hruba Skala.

Malá Skála is a rock castle – the fortifications are built into the sandstone, like the small castle close to the Bastei Bridge across the border in Germany. It’s also (confusingly) called Vranov, and includes a 19th-century Pantheon, a memorial to leading Czech and world figures. The landmark castle chapel was also restored at this time.

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Suché Skály
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A viewpoint at Besedice Rocks

If you have extra time, I suggest hiking the extra mile uphill to Frýdštejn Castle, one of the most romantic ruins among all Czech castles. Follow the red trail from the Vranov Pantheon to reach it.

There are more rock cities in the Jizera valley to explore, if you have more time than we did – the Kalich labyrinth, Besedice Rocks and the jagged cliffs of Suché Skály (Dry Rocks). These can be found on the eastern side of the valley, across the river from Malá Skála.

Trosky Castle

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Trosky Castle from the air
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Trosky Castle seen from Prachov Rocks

The two-towered Trosky Castle (Hrad Trosky) is one of the most remarkable Czechia landmarks, visible for many miles in all directions. The medieval towers are built on top of volcanic outcrops of rock that veer abruptly out of the gentle rolling countryside. They remind me of the church tower on top of Glastonbury Tor in Somerset, England, another unusual and unforgettable landmark.

Ideally you need a car to reach the Castle, as the nearest train station, Borek pod Troskami, is around two miles (3km – a 30-40 minute walk) away along the blue trail from the village. However the Turnov to Jičín train passes close by, giving you fleeting but superb views.

The bizarre castle – sometimes called the ‘Devil’s Horns’ – was founded in the late 14th century by local nobleman Čeněk of Wartenberg. The Castle had a working life of around a hundred years, and it was never captured. The lower tower is known as ‘Baba’ ((‘Crone) and the slightly taller tower is known as ‘Panna’ (‘Maiden’).   

Trosky Castle is open between late April and late November, daily except October when it’s only open on weekends.

Sychrov Castle

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The stunning interior of Sychrov Castle
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The exterior of Sychrov Castle
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The Games Room at Sychrov

Sychrov Castle is a few miles outside the Bohemian Paradise ‘Triangle’, but very much worth a visit if you’re in this part of the world. It’s a short (10-minute) train ride from Turnov, followed by a 10-minute uphill walk, or a short drive away.

Sychrov is one of the most unusual Czech castles, as it was built by a Breton noble family, the Rohans. They built the neo-Gothic castle (zamek) in the 19th century, richly decorating it with, among other things, the largest collection of French portraiture in Central Europe. It’s set in (what was then) a fashionable English-style park, with an Orangery and an ornamental Tower.

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Fine French wallpaper and a crest
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The kitchen at Sychrov Castle

Recently, I was pleasantly surprised to see Sychrov feature in a sequence of the 2022 Oscar-winning remake of All Quiet On The Western Front. Daniel Brühl’s character walks through some of the corridors, which you visit on the Rohan Family Tour, the main guided route through the Castle.

Unusually for castles in the Czech Republic, Sychrov is open year-round, with the exception of the Christmas and New Year period. Most tours are in Czech, with supplied English text. We were fortunate to have a helpful English-speaking guide who pointed out many features that weren’t mentioned in our printed guide.

Getting there: A 10-minute train ride or drive from Turnov

Humprecht Castle

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An aerial view of Humprecht Castle

Humprecht is a hilltop hunting lodge on the northern edge of the town of Sobotka, just off the minor road to Kost Castle. It’s very different to the other castles in Bohemian Paradise, with few hints of the medieval.

Humprecht Castle is a circular early Baroque building, originally built by Italian Carlo Lurago in the 1660s. It burned down after being struck by lightning in 1678. It was promptly rebuilt, with the addition of an extra storey, in 1680, and has scarcely changed since then.

It’s only open Wednesdays and weekends at the time of writing (April 2025), but if you happen to be in the area on one of the days it’s open, it’s well worth an hour of your time.

Kost Castle

Hrad Kost is a much more traditional Czech castle, a big in-your-face Gothic fortress in an unusual location on a valley floor a few miles northwest of Sobotka.

It’s one of the best-preserved medieval Czech castles, partly because it saw relatively little action – the worst damage done was by a fire in the 17th century.

I recommend trying to do the combined tour, which gives you a taste of the later residential parts of the castle, and the medieval dungeon.

The Castle is open from April to October, which is pretty much the standard season for Czech castles. Buses run there four times a day from Jičín between April and September, but not October.

Where Is Bohemian Paradise?

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Hruba Skala Castle from the nearby rock city

The Bohemian Paradise is a small area to the northeast of Prague, just beyond the Škoda car manufacturing town of Mladá Boleslav. It’s roughly a triangle of land between the towns of Mnichovo Hradíště, Jičín and Turnov, with a small extension a few miles north of Turnov.

Distances from Prague

Mnichovo Hradíště – 73 km

Jičín – 90 km

Turnov – 103 km

Getting to Bohemian Paradise From Prague

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A sign at Hruba Skala train station

You can reach the Bohemian Paradise by car, bus or train. As for which method of transport you use it all depends on where you plan to go.

We were staying in Jičín, which is over two hours from Prague with a change of train too. This was making heavy weather of a relatively short journey, so we opted to go by the much faster bus. This departs from the bus station at Černý Most, the eastern terminus of Prague Metro yellow line B.

The bus station is just outside the Metro station, and the bus to Jičín takes just 1 hour 15 minutes.

However, if you are travelling to Turnov or Malá Skála, direct trains from Prague main train station (Praha hl n on timetables) take around two hours.

If you’re driving, take the E65 motorway to Mladá Boleslav – it continues to Mnichovo Hradíště and Turnov. For Jičín, follow Route 16 from Mladá Boleslav.

Where To Stay In Bohemian Paradise

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The EA Zamecky Hotel Hrubá Skála in glorious autumn colours
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Hotel Stekl

The Bohemian Paradise is a great area to stay for a few days. If you’re using public transport, your best bet is to base yourself in one of the towns, of which Jičín (where we stayed) and Turnov are the best options. If you’re driving, it’s well worth considering somewhere in the countryside, including one or two of the castles in Bohemian Paradise.

Here are some of the best places to stay in the Bohemian Paradise region:

Hrubá Skála

**** – EA Zamecky Hotel Hrubá Skála– stay in a medieval castle with outstanding views over the Bohemian Paradise countryside and right next to the superb Hrubá Skála to Turnov hike

*** – Hotel Štekl – pleasant 3-star a few steps from the Castle Hotel above

Jičín

*** – Hotel U Valdické bránygreat mid-range option a two-minute walk from the main square, with an excellent restaurant downstairs

*** – Penzion U Synagogy – our base in Jičín, a lovely guesthouse in a former Jewish school

*** – Hotel Pod Šikmou věží – wonderful forest hideaway a few minutes’ walk from one of the most beautiful parts of the Prachov Rocks hike

Turnov

****Bohemia Inn Hotel – great luxury option in the centre of Turnov, with a salt cave and sauna

***Ábelův mlýnbeautiful guest house in countryside close to Turnov

Things To Do In Bohemian Paradise – Final Thoughts

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Hrubá Skála and Trosky Castles

The Bohemian Paradise remains well of the beaten track for foreign tourists visiting the Czech Republic. This is partly understandable, given that there are so many options for day trips from Prague – and most of them are easier to do than the Český ráj.

That said, the effort to venture a bit further off the beaten path brings huge rewards. The Bohemian P:aradise is magical, one of the most beautiful landscapes in Europe, somewhere hikers, history lovers, beer connoisseurs and romantics will love. I’m a bit of all four, and adored it.

For more amazing places to visit in the Czech Republic, take a look at some of these articles:

Things To Do In Český Krumlov – one of the most beautiful towns in Central Europe

Things To Do In Kutná Horaamazing World Heritage silver mining town with famous Bone Church

Telč Czech Republic – worth the visit to see one of the most beautiful town squares in the world

Things To Do In Litoměřice – gorgeous undiscovered Renaissance and Baroque town on the River Elbe

Things To Do In Mělník – lovely historic wine town at the confluence of the Elbe and Vltava rivers

Things To Do In Mariánské Lázně – World Heritage spa town in the far west of the country

Karlštejn Castle–the most imposing Czech castle, built to house the Bohemian Crown Jewels in the 14th century

Křivoklát Castlepicturesque royal castle in remote forests west of Prague

Konopiště Castle – country castle and favoured residence of Archduke Franz Ferdinand

Kokořín Castle – romantic forest castle in stunning countryside