Become a pirate for an hour like Sir Francis Drake, visiting the Golden Hinde, London
Stepping back 450 years in a replica of the first English ship to sail around the world is one of the joys of visiting the Golden Hinde, London.
This 1970s replica of Drake’s famous ship, one of two built around the same time, has followed in Sir Francis Drake’s footsteps, circumnavigating the globe twice before returning to its permanent home in Southwark, on the South Bank of the Thames in London.
It’s a fascinating trip back in time, one I took with my young son who was just learning about the exploits of pirates for the first time when we visited. He asked me why Drake was a ‘Sir’ when he was a pirate. I had to explain that he was essentially a state-sponsored pirate, referred to by the more ambiguous term ‘privateer’, plundering goods and wealth from Spanish ships on behalf of (unofficially of course) Good Queen Bess, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth I.
In this article I’ll show you what to expect on your visit to the Golden Hinde. I’ll also explain all the practicalities, including how to get there, and other places to see and eat nearby. I hope you enjoy it and get to see it for yourself soon.
The Golden Hinde And Sir Francis Drake – A Brief History
Sir Francis Drake was born around 1539-1540 in Tavistock, Devon, the eldest son of farmer Edmund Drake. He became a sailor, gaining much of his experience with cousin John Hawkins on ships which captured slaves from Africa and took them to the Caribbean.
The final slave voyage he undertook ended in failure, and he took to attacking Spanish ships for loot instead. In this he had far more success.
Drake was also one of the English commanders at the Rathlin Island massacre in 1575, when over 600 Irish and Scots were killed. Drake’s job was to keep reinforcements away from the island during the massacre.
Drake was then recruited to take part in a long-term expedition attacking and plundering Spanish ships and ports in the Caribbean. This departed in 1577, with Drake captaining the Pelican ship. This was renamed the Golden Hinde the following year, in honour of his patron, Sir Christopher Hatton, whose family crest included a deer.
The ship – which was initially accompanied by four other ships, two of which carried supplies. By the time the expedition reached the Pacific Ocean, the other ships had either been lost in storms or returned to England.
The Golden Hinde went it alone. Drake sailed up the western coast of South America, Central America and the modern United States, before heading west across the Pacific to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, now part of modern Indonesia.
He eventually returned to England in 1580, three years after his departure. He came back with an immense haul of gold, silver, jewels, coins and other treasures. At the time it was estimated to be worth £600,000 at the time. I have seen estimates (including from the UK National Archives) suggesting that this was worth anything between £122 million and £500 million in today’s money. I’d suggest it would be the equivalent of billions of pounds, but we’ll never know for sure how much.
Drake died on another raiding voyage in 1596 off the coast of what is now Panama.
The original Golden Hinde also, ironically, became a museum in a dock in nearby Deptford. However, by 1645, it had rotted to such an extent that it was broken up.
The Present Golden Hinde, London
The replica of the Golden Hinde is one of two that survive. The other one, known as the Golden Hind Museum Ship, is permanently moored in Brixham Harbour in Devon. It was completed in 1988, replacing an earlier version of the ship which had been finished in 1963.
The Golden Hinde in London was built under the supervision of Loring Christian Norgaard, and completed in 1973.
It has sailed far further than the original Golden Hinde did. It has completed tow round-the-world voyages and travelled extensively along the coasts of the United States, Canada and Europe – clocking up well over 100,000 nautical miles along the way.
The Golden Hinde has been a permanent museum ship since 1996.
What To See When Visiting The Golden Hinde
Exterior
The exterior of the ship is beautifully decorated, with a distinctive red and yellow chevron pattern. There is also a small figure of a golden hind at one end of the ship, and a carved relief of one at the other.
The Upper Decks
There are three upper decks, where the crew would have sailed the ship. Notice the two crows’ nests, one at the top of each mast, where a sailor would be posted as lookout, keeping a constant eye on land or Spanish ships ahead.
The ship’s wheel is one feature borrowed from the future. Drake and his crew wouldn’t have had this facility, which wasn’t incorporated into ship design until, the second half of the 17th century, around 70 years after he sailed his final voyage.
Instead, Drake would have used a tiller, most likely controlled by a whipstaff, to steer the Golden Hinde. The whipstaff was often below deck, and operated by a helmsman who would have to move the staff in one direction, and pull a pole the opposite way, to manoeuvre a ship in a certain direction.
The Lower Decks
For us, this was the most exciting part of our visit to the Golden Hinde. We had heard rumours of treasure kept ‘downstairs’, and my son couldn’t wait to rush ahead and find it. Meanwhile I had to keep him within sight and try to absorb all the information about the ship at the same time!
The two decks are reached by ladders. If you’re visiting with kids, I suggest one adult goes down ahead of the little ones and guides them, one at a time. The ladders are rather steep.
And a notice for taller adults – you’ll need to duck the whole way around. These ceilings are so low. Apparently the average height of a 16th-century English sailor was around 5’6” , and even at that height I’m pretty sure they would have had to duck. At 6’3” (190 cm) I had no choice – it was that or a very sore head. The crew of 80 would have endured very cramped conditions – not to mention some shocking weather sailing in wild weather across three of the world’s oceans.
One of the two lower decks is also equipped with 22 cannons – possibly a few more than the original ship would have had. This is a reminder that the Golden Hinde wasn’t merely a ship built for long exploratory voyages. It was a full-on 16th-century battleship, with the firepower to inflict maximum damage on the enemy (Spanish ships, and occasionally Portuguese too).
The Treasure
And finally, the treasure. A slight anticlimax, perhaps, after the crouching and crawling required to get around the two lower decks, but the highlight of my son’s day was seeing that chest of ersatz plunder. ‘Can we have some?’ he politely asked one of the guides, but he got a souvenir coin at the small gift shop instead.
Where Is The Golden Hinde
The Golden Hinde is at St Mary Overie dock, next to the River Thames in Southwark, London. Its full address is Cathedral Street London SE1 9DE.
It’s also just a few metres from the west front of Southwark Cathedral, a three-minute walk from Borough Market, and a five-minute walk from London Bridge.
How To Get To The Golden Hinde
The Golden Hinde is within a short walk of London Bridge Tube station and London Bridge mainline station.
The Tube station is on the Northern Line (Bank branch) – trains that run from the northern side of London which call at London Bridge usually terminate at Morden.
If you prefer travelling around London by bus, then services 21, 35, 47 and 133 stop at London Bridge Stop Y (heading south) or London Bridge Stop M (heading north towards the City of London).
Golden Hinde London Tickets
These cost £6 for adults and children alike, and family tickets cost £20.
What To See Near The Golden Hinde
There are enough things to do in Southwark to keep you in the area for a couple of days. It’s an area where we spent a great deal of time while living in London, and also while visiting the city from elsewhere.
A few steps from the Golden Hinde, Southwark Cathedral is one of the most beautiful churches in London. It is one of the first Gothic churches to be built in the city, and one of very few to survive the Great Fire of 1666.
The Cathedral is next door to Borough Market, a hugely popular destination for foodies. We’ve visited a great many times, and always find something new each time. If it’s your first time there, I suggest this Borough Market food tour with several tastings.
One possible combination with the Golden Hinde for kids is The Clink Prison Museum, a minute’s walk beyond the ship. It’s on the site of the oldest prison in London, and the dank, dark setting is filled with some gruesome figures. My son didn’t find it particularly scary – and fans of Horrible Histories and similar programmes would love it.
The building which dominates the Southwark and London Bridge skyline is one of the most famous London landmarks, The Shard. It’s by far the highest building in London and the UK, and on a clear day, the view from the 72nd-floor gallery is amazing. You can book your View From The Shard tickets here.
For one of the quirkiest museums in London, head over to The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret, a fascinating slice of medical history from the 18th century. It’s on St Thomas Street, just across Borough High Street after the railway bridge.
Southwark is also home to one of the best historic pubs in London, the George inn. It’s a 17th-century coaching inn in a courtyard off Borough High Street, with galleries and a beautiful wooden-beamed interior.
Where To Stay Near The Golden Hinde In Southwark
***** – Shangri La The Shard, London – 5-star luxury spread over 19 floors – 34 to 52 – of London’s landmark skyscraper
**** – Hilton London Tower Bridge – reliable luxury on More London Place, halfway between Tower Bridge and London Bridge
*** – ibis styles London Southwark – great mid-range a short walk away from the Golden Hinde and Borough Market
Visiting The Golden Hinde London – Final Thoughts
I hope you’ve enjoyed this article on the Golden Hinde. There is so much to see just in the tiny area around Southwark and London Bridge, and it’s one of the best things for kids to do in Southwark.
For more ideas on places to visit and things to do in London, here is a selection of my articles on the city for you to look through:
34 Famous Streets In London To Explore
16 Old Streets In London – London’s Oldest Streets
Where To Find The Best Red Telephone Boxes In London
Visiting Westminster Abbey – London’s Astounding Royal Church
15 Best Things To Do In West London
Sunrise In London – 10 Best Places To See It
Sunsets In London – The Best 20 Locations