It’s one of the most beautiful Cathedrals many of you will have never heard of. Yet it’s home to one of the most magnificent Gothic church spaces ever built, not to mention the most famous statue in Germany from the Middle Ages. I think that a day visiting Naumburg Cathedral is one of the best additions you could make to your Germany itinerary.
Naumburg Cathedral (Naumburger Dom) is in the Saxony-Anhalt region of eastern Germany. It fell off the tourist trail in the days of Communist East Germany, but it’s slowly making a comeback. Its inscription as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2018 will give this a gradual, gentle boost.
Naumburg Cathedral strongly resonated with us, touching our very souls. We expected it to be amazing, but it way surpassed that. We both agreed it is one of the most beautiful churches we had ever visited in our lives.
My guide to the Cathedral includes information on the building itself, and information on getting to Naumburg. I hope you find it helpful.
Visiting Naumburg Cathedral – What To See
Naumburg Cathedral is a part Romanesque and part Gothic church, mostly dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. It was accorded World Heritage status because of the work of the Naumburg Master, a mysterious stone sculptor who learned his craft in northern France. His art was centuries ahead of its time – he was to German sculpture what Giotto was to early Renaissance painting in Italy.
The West Choir Screen
The figure of Christ on the Cross at the centre of the West Choir Screen
When you enter the Cathedral, turn left and walk down the west end of the church and the screen of the west choir.
Some original sculptures from the series depicting the Last Supper and Passion of Christ have survived. Some were replaced in the 18th century.
Naumburg Cathedral West Choir
Naumburg Cathedral, like numerous other German cathedrals and churches, has a ‘double apse’ – an apse or choir at both the east and west ends of the church. You’ll also encounter this feature in the likes of Trier Cathedral and the great cathedrals along the Rhine at Speyer and Worms. It’s a tradition carried on from Roman and Carolingian times, and is common in important Romanesque churches in Germany. However it didn’t continue far into the Gothic era (the mid-13th century onwards).
The west choir of Naumburg Cathedral was the work of the Naumburg Master. It’s famous for its series of twelve ‘donor statues’ (also sometimes called ‘founder statues’). These are figures from the 11th century, including local rulers from the Margravate of Meissen and their wives. These statues are many people’s main reason for visiting Naumburg Cathedral.
The choir is also reminiscent of some early French Gothic churches and cathedrals. The vivid coloured stained glass (some, but not all, original) and stonework bring to mind La Sainte Chapelle Paris. The Naumburg Master may not have visited this royal chapel in Paris, but he would have been familiar with some of the great French Gothic cathedrals, including Reims and Amiens.
Statues of Uta von Ballenstedt and husband Ekkehard II
After visiting Naumburg Cathedral, I read through an old guidebook to Germany in my hotel in Leipzig. It described this pair of statues as ‘the most famous statues in Germany’. I have also heard Uta described as ‘the most beautiful woman in the Middle Ages’. I must admit that seeing Uta was one of my main reasons for wanting to visit Naumburg Cathedral for so long.
I think the statue of Uta is possibly the greatest achievement of the Naumburg Master and his workshop. The statue was completed sometime around the mid-13th century. Her pose is amazingly lifelike, holding her coat collar with her right hand, and her facial expression is incredibly vivid. I often find myself doing a double-take when I look at images of Uta because she bears a strong resemblance to my wife Faye.
Uta von Naumburg has also inspired many writers, including Gunter Grass and Umberto Eco. Several Naumburg taxis also bear Uta’s face on their sides. She is the main symbol of Naumburg, but also early German Gothic art.
Uta stands next to her husband, Margrave Ekkehard II of Meissen. He took part in a military campaign against the Bohemians in 1040 which eventually ended in defeat. Ekkehard and Uta didn’t have any children, so their line ended when they died around 1046.
Other Founder Statues
There are twelve founder statues in the west choir. There are eight men and four women, and the men are easier to identify. The main clue lies in their shields, which bear either their names or titles. So we can identify Hermann I of Meissen, brother of Uta’s husband Ekkehard, and also his Polish-born wife Reglindis.
We can also identify Dietmar, Wilhelm of Camburg, Syzzo and Thimo of Kistritz. We’re not as sure about the other two women, believed to be Berchta and Gepa or Gerburg. All that we know of them is that they were nobles, most likely of considerable wealth, who each would have contributed to Naumburg Cathedral in its early days.
GOOD TO KNOW
If you’re visiting Naumburg Cathedral in winter, take a tip from me: it is very cold inside. Wrap up in warm clothes. Many old churches in Germany aren’t heated in winter. We spent the best part of an hour around the west choir, and had to don our winter gear and scarves to stay warm. Earlier we had been sitting in the main square in Naumburg, in late March (early spring in Europe) in shirtsleeves, with the temperature around 15 degrees Centigrade (54 Fahrenheit).
Nave and East Choir Screen
After the wonders of the West Choir, the Cathedral nave is relatively plain and austere. The windows in the clerestory (upper level) are rounded and Romanesque, but the pointer arches below are early Gothic (13th century).
The east choir screen is believed to be one of the oldest in Germany – it dates from around 1220 to 1230. It was one of the final Romanesque additions to the Cathedral, and was added around 20 years before the west choir screen. The portraits of saints above the arches date from the same time, while the cross above the screen was added later.
St Francis and Animals Handrail
The east choir of Naumburg Cathedral is raised above the level of the nave and transepts, and can be reached by a staircase on either side.
We loved the wonderful handrails on either side. One of them depicts St Francis of Assisi and a series of animals, including a peacock at the base of the south staircase and a goat at the top of the north.
These are the work of Heinrich Apel, who sculpted them in 1972 and 1973.
They are a wonderful modern addition to the Cathedral. One of my favourite details is the bishop on the north staircase, who seems to desperately clambering up a slippery snake towards the heights of heaven.
East Choir and Tomb of Bishop Dietrich
The stairs lead you to the largely Romanesque east choir, with its impressive carved wooden stalls and tomb of Bishop Dietrich II.
The high altar and apse area marks the step into the Gothic era, with its pointed arch, and more elaborate windows. Some of the stained glass is from the Gothic period, and some is modern.
Chapel of St Elisabeth of Thuringia
Don’t miss this beautiful chapel in the northwest corner of the Cathedral – it’s just to the left of the west choir as you leave it for the nave.
It’s dedicated to St Elisabeth of Thuringia, and the statue on the wall was created just a few years after her death and canonization. She died in 1231 and was made a saint four years later, in recognition of her work for the poor and miracles that were attributed to her.
The statue is the earliest known artistic depiction of her. The red stained-glass windows – depicting almost comic-book-style episodes of her life by Neo Rauch – make great companions. Well worth a few minutes of your time.
Cloister and St Mary’s Church
You enter the cloister through a side door between the ticket office and main cathedral entrance. The cloister was most likely built in the same 13th-century phase as the West Choir, and has Gothic arches and vaulting consistent with this period.
The Cloister also offers some superb views of the south side of the Cathedral, and leads to the Treasury and Garden.
There is also an entrance to the adjacent St Mary’s Church in the cloister. This church may well have been even older than the Cathedral. Sadly most of it (except the choir and chancel) was burned down in a fire in 1532. The surviving part was restored in the 19th century.
Naumburg Cathedral Treasury
The Treasury is in the basement of a building on the west side of the Cloister, reached by a wooden door with elaborate metal sculptures. The Treasury is down the stairs on your left.
The collection is housed in a single room. It includes a highly impressive early 15th-century altarpiece, several statues and some beautiful manuscripts, including the one pictured.
Naumburg Cathedral Garden
You can reach the Garden of Naumburg Cathedral via the Treasury building. The west ends of the Cathedral, with its twin towers, is especially striking, and you get some superb views of it from the garden area.
We visited in springtime, when there were few leaves on the trees, leaving the views of the Cathedral unobstructed. In summertime, when the trees are in full foliage, it’s a lovely place to sit in the shade for a while.
The Four Towers Of Naumburger Dom
The Naumburg skyline is dominated by the four towers of Naumburg Cathedral. The two pairs are distinct – the east towers are more rounded, with Romanesque details, while the western towers are more Gothic in style.
The set of four towers was only completed in the 19th century. This was at a time when other great unfinished centuries-old projects like Cologne Cathedral were also being finished.
You can climb one of the towers during the summer season, which would definitely be worth the effort. I would also recommend climbing the tower of St Wenzel Church next to the Markt square for a superb view of the Cathedral and towers. This is also open April to October – frustratingly we visited just three days before it reopened for the year.
Naumburg Cathedral Tickets
You have to pass through the ticket office to enter Naumburg Cathedral – you can’t miss it!
Adult tickets cost €9.50, children 6 to 15 €3.00.
The shop also sells various souvenirs, including the Naumburg Cathedral zero-euro note pictured.
Naumburg Cathedral Opening Hours
Naumburg Cathedral is open daily, with opening hours varying by season.
From April to October, the Cathedral is open 9.00 am to 6.00 pm Mondays to Saturdays, and 11.00 am to 6.00 pm on Sundays and public holidays.
From November to March it is open from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm Mondays to Saturdays, and 12.00 pm to 4.00 pm on Sundays and public holidays. It is only open from 10.00 am to 12.00 pm on December 24th, when Germans celebrate Christmas.
Where Is Naumburg
Naumburg is on the Saale River in the Saxony-Anhalt region of eastern Germany. It’s 50 km southeast of the major city of Leipzig.
How To Get To Naumburg
Naumburg is very easy to reach by train, especially from Leipzig or Erfurt. On timetables it’s listed as Naumburg (Saale) Hbf and it’s on the RB 20 line between Leipzig and Eisenach.
It’s not widely known, but this line calls at four World Heritage Sites – Naumburg, Weimar, Erfurt and Eisenach (for the Wartburg Castle). They are all possible day trips from Leipzig. The journey from there to Naumburg takes 47 minutes.
How To Get To Naumburg Cathedral From Naumburg Station – The Naumburg Tram
An essential part of visiting Naumburg is the wonderful old tram from the station to the town centre. It’s a beautiful old rattler from the DDR (Communist East Germany), the smallest town tram company in Germany.
It is a joy to ride this tram. There is just one line – number 4 – which runs from the main station (Hauptbahnhof) to Salztor at the other end of town.
The nearest station – a 6–7-minute walk – from the Cathedral is Jägerplatz. But I recommend staying on longer, to Marientor or Curt-Becker-Platz just for the sake of spending more time on there.
You buy your tickets from the conductor as you board the tram. It’s full of wonderful old touches, including a local newspaper for passengers to read, and put back for others when they alight. Just like in a Viennese cafe!
Tickets cost €2.20 for a single journey (€1.20 for children), or €4.00 for a day ticket (€3.00 for children).
For more information check out the Naumburger Strassenbahn website.
Visiting Naumburg Cathedral – Final Thoughts
I hope you have found my guide to visiting Naumburg Cathedral useful and inspirational.
The Cathedral is exceptional. I have visited countless churches around Europe, and this is among the most beautiful five or six I have ever visited. Faye says the same.
It is by far the most popular thing to see in Naumburg, but I would suggest spending at least half a day in the town. The Altstadt area is lovely, there’s a friendly atmosphere, some great cafes on the Markt (main square). We happened to be visiting Naumburg on market day, so had the bonus of browsing some great stalls selling local produce around the square.
The Saxony-Anhalt region is home to the Strasse der Romanik – the Romanesque Road – which includes 88 sites, mostly churches but also monasteries and castles, around the state. While in the area I suggest checking out more of these.
Among the best are the Romanesque churches in Quedlinburg, one of which (St Servatius) is the burial place of Heinrich I, who some describe as the first King of Germany. Also check out my guides to the best things to do in Quedlinburg, and the most beautiful streets in Quedlinburg, for more inspiration on this astonishing World Heritage town.
I have also written several other articles on churches in Germany. Check out my guide to the exceptional Frauenkirche Dresden, a Baroque beauty rebuilt from the rubble after its destruction in a 1945 bombing raid. Also see my guide to the best Churches in Dresden to visit.
You can discover more German churches in my guides to the best Churches in Nuremberg and Trier Cathedral, the oldest in Germany.
If you’re contemplating a trip to the region, take a look at my guide to the best places to visit in Eastern Germany. This includes information on nearby Leipzig, an outstanding city to visit with great musical heritage, and one of the birthplaces of the Peaceful Revolution of 1989. Check out my guide to visiting Nikolaikirche Leipzig, where the protests began that year. Take a look at my article on the Stasi Museum Leipzig if you’re interested in the history of former East Germany. If you’re planning more day trips from Leipzig, take a look at my things to do in Torgau article too.
For more information on some amazing World Heritage Sites in Germany, I suggest checking out more of my articles, including the Best Things To Do In Goslar. Further west, don’t miss my features on the best Rhine River Castles and Rhine River Towns to visit.
If you’re planning on travelling across Germany, check out my more expansive guide to the Best Places To Visit In Germany. My Germany Travel Guide page also has plenty more ideas and inspiration for you.
David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.