Delve into World War Two history on board a ship that took part in the D-Day landings – here’s my guide to visiting HMS Belfast London
Immersing yourself in the sights – and smells – of this naval cruiser is the closest thing you could get to World War Two in the 21st century. It saw action in the Arctic and the 1944 D-Day Normandy landings, and visiting HMS Belfast London is one of the most fascinating World War Two sites in the British capital.
It’s somewhere that appeals across the generations. I was intrigued to visit another Second World War-era warship, and my young son was fascinated by the warren of underground corridors. Exploring the ship is as much about learning about the everyday life of the crew as the ship’s exploits in some of the most important naval battles of World War Two.
HMS Belfast was built in the 1930s at a time the British were looking to bolster their naval firepower in response to recent Japanese and American upgrades. After sustaining damage by a German mine in 1939, and subsequent repairs, it saw action in the Arctic in 1942 and 1943, escorting supply convoys to the Soviet port of Murmansk, and it took part in the Battle of the North Cape which saw the sinking of the German battleship Scharnhorst.
The ship was also used to support the D-Day landings in Normandy in June 1944. Prime Minister Winston Churchill wanted to watch the battle from the HMS Belfast, but staff decided this was too much of a security risk. The ship later saw further action in the Far East and during the Korean War, before being decommissioned in 1963.
In this guide I’ll show you everything there is to see on board the HMS Belfast, and explain the practicalities of getting there, buying tickets, and what else there is to see nearby. I hope you find it helpful!
Visiting HMS Belfast – What To See
Out On Deck
We spent a considerable amount of time out on deck during our visit to HMS Belfast. It has a stupendous setting, surrounded by some of the most famous London landmarks. From there, you can see the skyscrapers of the City of London, the Tower of London, Tower Bridge, the Shard and, in the distance, the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral.
You can’t walk the entire length (613 feet, or 187 metres) of the ship in one go – but you can walk most of it, by going back inside and then up or down to different decks to continue your walk. There are nine decks on the ship in total, and you can climb between some external decks on staircases.
Bear in mind that getting around the ship and between decks involves climbing up and down a few ladders, and in and out of some hatches.
The Guns
You can see several of the ship’s guns while walking around the deck. The ship – along with several of others of its Town cruiser class – were intended to match the Japanese Mogami class cruisers and US-built Brooklyn class cruisers for firepower. Its first line of attack was its four triple turrets of 6-inch guns, one of which is shown above.
This was supplemented by twelve 4-inch guns, 16 2-pounder guns (intended for close-quarters engagement), machine guns and depth charges. Two small Supermarine Walrus biplanes were also stored in compartments near the front of the ship – these were used for short reconnaissance flights.
Engine and Boiler Rooms
HMS Belfast could stay at sea without refuelling for almost four weeks at a time if it cruised at the slow speed of 13 knots (15 miles per hour). At its maximum it could travel at 32 knots (around 37 miles per hour).
The ship was powered by four triple-drum water-tube boilers, which turned steam turbines which powered four propeller shafts. Down in the bowels of the ship, it looks a lot more exciting than in sounds! The noise of the engines going at full throttle is sometimes simulated – and it is incredibly loud.
Kitchen
The ship’s kitchen was the first area where we saw mannequins used in the exhibition. This is because it’s the first part of the ship that we reached where there was enough space for them. But that’s not the first thing that strikes you.
‘Oh my God, what is that disgusting SMELL?’ wailed a poor American lady. ‘Oh that is repulsive!’
‘It’s British cooking,’ I smiled. ‘It has improved a lot in recent years.’
This didn’t make a great deal of difference to her, and my son wasn’t overly impressed either. ‘It smells like vomit,’ he said, matter of factly.
It wasn’t quite that bad. But whoever had created or curated this particular odour had done an outstanding job. There was a whiff of Spam (the tinned processed pork and ham) and also jam roly-poly, both typical food from the 1940s and 1950s.
My son took it upon himself to tell the mannequins off for their ‘terrible cooking’ and I thanked providence that I had never had to sample it.
Crew Sleeping Quarters
Below deck is cramped throughout the ship, but the lack of space really hits home when you get to see the crew’s sleeping quarters. Sleeping benches were three high on each wall, without a millimetre of wiggle room.
It looked bad enough on a quiet afternoon moored on the Thames. Imagine the noise of the ship’s engines, fellow sailors’ snoring, the movement of the ship in rough seas. And imagine travelling – as the HMS Belfast did after the Normandy landings – sailing from western Europe to the Far East and Australia.
What an experience that would have been. If you didn’t have sea legs by that point, you would surely never have them!
Games Room
As well as the lack of space, the heat and smells on board, there was the monotony of life at sea – particularly when HMS Belfast was crossing the globe in 1945.
The mannequin exhibit pictured shows a few sailors sat at tables playing board games, and they would also have had a few packs of cards around to while away the days. And there was also the ship’s cat to befriend and pet.
When I was a boy, I knew someone who had served in the Far East towards the end of the Second World War (but not on the Belfast). He told me that things could be quiet for days, then when an enemy vessel was spotted close by, the whole crew would speedily, seamlessly slip into battle mode.
The Operations Room, The Bridge – And The Captain’s Chair
Especially in its early years of operation, the HMS Belfast crew would have been in a constant state of high alert. The operations room used sonar and radar to detect vessels or aircraft near the ship, and this in turn would have informed the captain’s decision on where to manoeuvre next.
One of the highlights of visiting HMS Belfast for kids is the Bridge, where members of the crew including the Captain would survey the horizon ahead. The only queue that we encountered during our HMS Belfast visit was the line of kids waiting to sit in the Captain’s chair, which Our Little Man was naturally very keen to do!
HMS Belfast Tickets
You can buy your HMS Belfast tickets here – with an added audio tour of the South Bank area.
This tour of the top London sights also includes tickets to HMS Belfast.
Otherwise you can book them online through the Imperial War Museums and HMS Belfast website.
Where Is HMS Belfast In London
HMS Belfast is close to the South Bank of the River Thames, very close to the famous Shard skyscraper. It’s on the stretch of river between London Bridge and Tower Bridge, two of the most famous bridges in London.
The ship’s address is The Queen’s Walk, London, SE1 2JH.
How To Get To HMS Belfast
HMS Belfast is very easy to reach as it’s very close to both the busy London Bridge transport hub and Tower Bridge.
You can reach London Bridge by bus (if you’re coming from the City of London, across the river, the 21, 35, 47 and 133 all stop at London Bridge stop Y). From there, turn left onto Duke St Hill, which quickly becomes London Bridge Tube and railway station.
London Bridge is on the Northern Line (Bank branch) and the Jubilee Line. You’ll need to exit the station at Tooley Street, then turn right, heading east towards Tower Bridge. Veer off left onto More London Place, which has pedestrian access to the river. You’ll soon be greeted by a great view of Tower Bridge, and a small square with some fountains. If you’re visiting HMS Belfast with kids, they can run through them and get soaked like my son did.
HMS Belfast is just around the corner from there, to the left. Access is via a footbridge from the riverbank.
The 47 and 343 buses also run down Tooley Street, and alight at either Hays Galleria or the Unicorn Theatre. The lane next to the bus stop also leads to the river and HMS Belfast.
Other Things To Do Near HMS Belfast
The most obvious place to visit near HMS Belfast is The Shard, the tallest skyscraper in the UK and seventh tallest building in Europe, just a few inches shorter than the newly-opened Varso Tower in Warsaw. The viewing gallery is on the 72nd floor, and offers a stunning view over the metropolis of London, 800 feet below. You can book your View From The Shard tickets here.
On a much smaller scale, the Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret is one of the best small museums in London. A rudimentary operating theatre from the 1820s was discovered in a church tower after being blocked off for over a century, and you can learn about medical (if you can call them that!) techniques of the time, and also various medicines and potions used. It’s one of my favourite places to visit in London.
It’s only a 5-minute walk from HMS Belfast to Tower Bridge, one of the most beautiful bridges in Europe and the world. Its distinctive design means that the road (on the lower level) can be raised to allow tall vessels to pass through.
In the other direction, there are enough things to do in Southwark to keep you busy for a day or more. Borough Market is hugely popular with foodies, and there are also some great places to eat nearby, including the unique galleried George Inn, a medieval pub rebuilt in 1677, just across Borough High Street.
There is also Southwark Cathedral, formerly known as St Mary Overie, a medieval Gothic church partly rebuilt in the 19th century. It’s known as the burial place of Edmund Shakespeare, brother of playwright William, but it’s worth visiting simply to see the stunning tomb of 14th-century poet John Gower.
Just around the corner from there, anyone with an interest in maritime history may be interested in visiting the Golden Hinde. It’s a 20th-century replica of the 16th-century galleon that Sir Francis Drake sailed around the world, harassing and robbing many a Spanish and Portuguese ship along the way. Like the HMS Belfast, the interior is cramped, but at least you could stand up on board the Belfast – the taller among you will be forced to duck, or even crawl, below deck on the Golden Hinde.
Continue west along the Thames and you’ll reach the Clink Museum, the goriest, grottiest prison in medieval London, with mannequins to match.
And just beyond there, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre is a fantastic place to visit, either on a tour or to watch a performance.
Where To Stay In London Near HMS Belfast
***** – Shangri-La At The Shard – don’t just climb the Shard, why not stay in it too?
**** – Hilton London Tower Bridge – the closest hotel to HMS Belfast, and a superb base for exploring London
*** – ibis London Blackfriars – reliable mid-range chain hotel close to Blackfriars Bridge and Tate Modern
Visiting HMS Belfast London – Final Thoughts
I hope you have found this guide useful. HMS Belfast is fascinating, and one of the best World War 2 sites in London to visit. It’s well worth at least a couple of hours of your time. It’s one of six branches of the Imperial War Museum around the country, and it’s also well worth visiting the Imperial War Museum in Lambeth and the excellent Churchill War Rooms in Westminster if you have time.
Having lived in London and visited the city innumerable times, I’ve written extensively about it. Here are some of the articles I’ve written about London for you to peruse:
16 Famous Statues In London Not To Miss
34 Famous Streets In London To Explore
16 Old Streets In London – London’s Oldest Streets
25 Most Beautiful Churches in London To Visit
Where To Find The Best Red Telephone Boxes In London
Visiting Westminster Abbey – London’s Astounding Royal Church
15 Best Things To Do In West London
Marc Bolan Shrine London – the shrine to the late, great T Rex singer
Visiting The Golden Hinde London – on board Sir Francis Drake’s recreated pirate ship
Sunrise In London – 10 Best Places To See It
Sunsets In London – The Best 20 Locations