Discover the best things to do in Torcello, the tiny island where Venice began
All of Venice was once like this. There aren’t a great many things to do in Torcello, an island in the north of the Venetian lagoon, and this is all part of the charm. It’s a one-street – alright, one canal – hamlet, and most visitors stay between one and two hours, tagging it onto a day trip from Venice to nearby Burano.
It’s difficult to imagine now, but Torcello was once an important trading centre, with a population of at least 10,000. It was bigger and more important than the collection of muddy islands to the south that eventually became known as Venice. If you ever wondered what Venice was like long before it became powerful, Torcello is the best place to see for yourself.
The island had been inhabited on and off for centuries before the settlement of Torcello was founded in 452 AD. People from the war-ravaged mainland sought refuge on the low-lying islands of the lagoon, of which Torcello was one of the closest. Attila the Hun passed close by the year of its foundation, and the new inhabitants could defend themselves far more easily there than on the mainland. Many of these refugees were from the city of Altinum.
Torcello enjoyed centuries of prosperity, and became the seat of the Bishop of Venice. Its fortunes declined by the 14th century as the waters around the island gradually silted up and became swampy. The great palaces of Torcello were dismantled stone by stone, brick by brick, and re-used to build Venice, which had by then overtaken it and become the seat of a maritime Empire.
In this article I’ll show you all the Torcello sights, explain how to get there by yourself or on a tour, and suggest places to stay on the island and nearby I’ll also suggest other places to see nearby, to help you make the most of the day trip from Venice.
Enjoy!
Things To Do In Torcello Venice
Torcello is one of the best day trips from Venice. You could see everything in two hours, or linger longer to enjoy the tranquillity a million miles from the congested, overtouristed centre of Venice.
Many visitors to Torcello combine it with a few hours in Burano. It’s one of the most beautiful villages in Europe, a riot of colour from the beautifully painted houses around the island. Keep plenty of card space as you’ll be busy with your camera.
Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral
The oldest building in Torcello, the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, was founded in 639 AD, although most of the present church was built in the 11th century. It was the Cathedral of Venice and one of the most important churches in Venice until 1451, when the bishop’s seat was transferred to the church of San Pietro di Castello. The seat was later moved to the St Mark’s Basilica (Basilica di San Marco) in 1807.
From the outside, the church and tower are simple and barely adorned, but the interior is very different. St Mark’s is rightly famous for its outstanding mosaics, and the two main mosaics in Santa Maria Assunta – on the west wall and in the apse above the high altar, are from the same period and are of a similar standard.
Alongside the mosaics of Ravenna, St Mark’s and Monreale in Sicily, the apse mosaic in Torcello is one of the greatest examples of the art form. The simple design features the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, with her right hand directing the viewer towards him, indicating him as the future saviour of the world. This is a version of the Hodegetria styler of mosaic, derived from an original in Constantinople believed to have been lost for centuries.
The mosaic on the west wall is a depiction of the Crucifixion, a vision of Hell and the Last Judgment, and it’s believed to have been completed later than the apse mosaic.
Santa Maria Assunta is also home to the relics of two significant saints – St Heliodorus, bishop of Altinum, and St Cecilia, the patron saint of music, whose skull is held there.
While visiting the Cathedral, don’t miss the climb up the Tower (campanile) next to it. It’s 55 metres high, a classic early Romanesque structure believed to date back to 1008 AD.
The viewing gallery gives you a superb view of the island and the north of the lagoon. It also gives you an intriguing historical perspective. Six hundred years ago you would have stood on the same spot and seen eight other belltowers and a total of twelve parishes. Now, looking at the marshes and mudflats, this seems inconceivable.
Santa Fosca Church
As you approach the small square in Torcello, the first church you reach is the small Byzantine church of Santa Fosca. It’s not to be confused with another church in Venice dedicated to the same saint, on the Strada Nova in the Cannaregio district.
It’s dedicated to Fosca or Fusca, an early Christian martyr believed to be from Ravenna, in what is now the region of Emilia-Romagna, to the south of Venice.
Like many Byzantine churches, it was built to a floor plan resembling a Greek cross, with each section of equal length. The interior is rather bare and sparsely decorated, but well worth a few minutes’ visit.
Attila’s Throne
This ancient stone seat stands in the square between the Museum and the two churches. It has traditionally been called Attila’s Throne after the almost-all-conquering leader of the Huns, but there’s no proof that the marauding military leader ever parked his posterior on it.
It’s more likely that it was the seat of a local dignitary – perhaps a bishop of Torcello, or governor of the island. We will probably never know for sure. What we do know is that the chair is very old – it is believed to date from the 6th century, perhaps as much as a hundred years after Attila’s death.
Torcello Museum
The Museo Provinciale di Torcello houses a large collection of artefacts discovered on the island and surrounding area, including the mainland around the Roman settlement of Altinum.
Some of the exhibits on display in the Archaeological section pre-date the Romans by several centuries, with Etruscan ceramics and bronzes, through to everyday ancient tableware and funerary objects.
The Medieval and Modern section includes items from the early Christian to the Byzantine era, including fragments of the mosaic that was restored in the apse of Santa Maria Assunta. They also have paintings from a ruined church on Torcello, and documents show the once rich life of the island before nature took its course and turned it into the sleepy backwater you see today.
Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge)
This medieval stone bridge is one of the most intriguing bridges in Venice – and one of only two in the city still in its original state without a handrail. It’s around two-thirds of the way from the vaporetto stop to the square and churches in Torcello, close to a couple of small restaurants.
Devil’s Bridges and colourful stories around them are common across Europe. In this instance, a local girl is said to have fallen in love with an Austrian soldier, a member of the occupying army in the early 19th century. The soldier was soon murdered, and the bereaved girl went to a witch seeking help.
The witch made a pact with the Devil. The soldier could be brought back to life, in return for the delivery of the souls of seven dead children. A child was to be brought to a spot next to the bridge on December 24th on each of the following years. The witch couldn’t fulfil this promise as she too was murdered.
According to legend the Devil still lurks at the same spot every year, in the guise of a black cat.
Eat or Stay At Locanda Cipriani
Locanda Cipriani is one of the most famous restaurants in Venice. It’s located at the head of the canal, a couple of minutes’ walk from the square and churches in what is now the centre of Torcello.
It was founded by Giuseppe Cipriani, who also founded the famous Harrys Bar, in the 1930s. He wanted to create a small country restaurant, which gradually became more renowned in the following decades. He also opened a small six-room inn next door. They have welcomed many famous guests, including Ernest Hemingway, who had an extended stay there in the late 1940s.
I ate there once, enjoying a wonderful leek risotto which fortified me for the freezing evening boat ride across the lagoon to Venice. It also inspired me to create my own, which I think I have pretty much perfected over the years.
At the time of writing, Locanda Cipriani is temporarily closed. Their website is down, and they haven’t reopened for the 2025 summer season. I’ll update this section of the article if I learn of any more developments.
Where Is Torcello
Torcello is in the far north of the Venetian lagoon. It is a five-minute ferry journey from the nearby island of Burano.
It is 10 km (six miles) northeast of the city of Venice.
How To Get To Torcello
Ferries to the north of the lagoon run from Fondamente Nove (F.te Nove on timetables). Bear in mind that there are four ferry wharves at F.te Nove – A, B, C and D – and A is over 200 metres from D, with some long, steep flights of seps in between them.
The number 12 vaporetto runs from F.te Nove stand A. Its final destination is either Treporti or Punta Sabbioni, both of which are beyond Torcello. If travelling early in the morning – until 8.40 am – or after 6.30 at night, the number 12 runs directly from F.te Nove to Torcello. But in the daytime – between 9.00 am and 6.00 pm – you need to change at Burano to get to Torcello.
If you’re travelling in the daytime, you still need to catch ferry number 12 from F.te Nove, but you have to alight at Burano and walk the short distance to Burano Stand A. From there, you catch ferry number 9 to Torcello.
The last number 9 boat from Torcello to Burano departs at 1755 daily. If you intend to return to Venice later than that, boats still run from Torcello to F.te Nove until 10.00 pm.
Where To Stay On Or Near Torcello
The nearest – and best – place to stay near Torcello is the Venissa Wine Resort on the island of Mazzorbo, which has its own vaporetto stop and can also be accessed by bridge from Burano. It’s such a peaceful place, with its own vineyard, orchard and Michelin-starred restaurant – a world away from the crowds of Venice.
Surprisingly there are few places to stay on Burano, but there are some wonderful options on the island. The best of these is Casa Burano, who have renovated a few of the fishermen’s cottages around the village. These are run by the Venissa Wine Resort, and are also a great option if you prefer somewhere quieter than the centre of Venice.
Otherwise, there are countless places to stay in Venice. I recommend the following, for accommodation, location and transport links:
**** – Foscari Palace – stunning opulent 16th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal
**** – Hotel Dona Palace – superb hotel, Venetian luxury and only a two-minute walk from St Mark’s Square
*** – Hotel Antiche Figure – excellent mid-range hotel on the Grand Canal, very close to the train station
Places To Visit Near Torcello
The neighbouring island of Burano is one of the most popular day trips from Venice. Most visitors are drawn by the gorgeous colourfully painted houses. It’s full of vivid shades of red, pink, blue, orange, green and the occasional yellow, with not a splash grim grey in sight. Check out my guide to the best things to do in Burano for more information on what to see around the island.
Despite Burano’s popularity, it’s in a fairly remote corner of the lagoon, surrounded by a few quiet islands that only see a fraction of the visitors. For a glimpse of Venice off the beaten path, alight the number 12 ferry at Mazzorbo, where you’ll find the lovely Venissa vineyard and restaurant.
Or for somewhere even further out of the way, ask around at the harbour in Burano and you should be able to charter a boat to take you the short distance across the lagoon to the island of San Francesco del Deserto. St Francis of Assisi visited the island in the 13th century, and a monastery was founded there afterwards. This was rebuilt in the 19th century, and they welcome visitors every day except Mondays. It’s even quieter than Torcello, which is saying something.
Things To Do In Torcello Venice – Final Thoughts
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to Torcello. Venice has been called La Serenissima for centuries, and Torcello is one of the few places there where you can still find serenity. It’s an extraordinary place, worth a few hours of your time to find out what Venice was like in its earliest days.
I have visited Venice a great many times, and written extensively about it on the website. Here are some more of my articles on the city for you to peruse:
Grand Canal Venice – complete photo guide to the most beautiful street in the world
Sunrise in Venice – the best places to catch dawn in La Serenissima
Sunset in Venice – photo tips on the best places to watch the sunset in the Floating City
Venice landmarks – 34 essential sights not to miss to see, as well as the best
Churches in Venice – from exotic Byzantine to florid Baroque, and Gothic and Renaissance wonders aplenty
Best Area To Stay In Venice – guides to all six sestieri in Venice, plus mainland Mestre and beyond
17 Photos of Venice – a visual taster of this extraordinary city
Day Trip To Venice – not the best way to appreciate Venice – but here’s how to make the very best of it
Weekend in Venice – how to plan and enjoy a weekend break in La Serenissima
3-Day Venice Itinerary – getting the most of a 3-day stay in Venice, including a day trip into the Venetian Lagoon
Best Day Trips From Venice – from lagoon boat trips to stunning Padua, across the Veneto region and beyond.