Discover the history behind Britain’s first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty as we explore some of the finest Gower churches
The Gower Peninsula is best known for its outstanding beaches, but the many Gower churches give you a very different insight into this stunning part of the world.
Most of the churches are small, dating from the early medieval (12th and 13th centuries) period, and were built in an area under Anglo-Norman rather than Welsh control.
Visiting some of them is a great way to delve back in time, and with so many ancient churches within such a short distance of each other, it makes sense to mix a little church-hopping with your hiking and beach time. And seeing a few of them will often enrich your appreciation of this extraordinary part of Wales. Enjoy.
St Cadoc, Cheriton
The humble ‘Cathedral of Gower’
This fine 14th-century church may well have been built to replace a church at nearby Landimore, which would have been prone to flooding from the adjacent saltmarshes of the Loughor estuary. It’s built on much higher ground, and serves a tiny village a mile or two east of Llanmadoc, more on which later in the article.
The church is as humble and simple as most other Gower churches. Its one difference is its central tower, between the nave and the chancel. In cathedrals and larger churches transepts would be built to the north and south, but this wasn’t the case at Cheriton.
The church is dedicated to St Cadoc, one of the most prominent early Welsh saints, who founded an important monastery at Llancarfan, 40 miles to the east in the Vale of Glamorgan. What we see today was largely built in the Early English Gothic style, with typical narrow lancet windows. It was restored from 1875 onwards under the auspices of the Rector, Reverend J D Davies, who also served the neighbouring village of Llanmadoc.
Those with an interest in medical history may be intrigued to know that Sigmund Freud’s biographer, Ernest Jones, is buried in Cheriton churchyard. A psychoanalyst himself, he was born in. nearby Gowerton and had a holiday home just up the road in Llanmadoc.
Opening times: Daily, all year round
St Mary, Pennard
I’ve only visited this exquisite church once, after dark, when I attended a concert in which a good friend of mine was performing a fait few moons ago. But it’s one of the most beautiful Gower churches, well worth a stop if you’re passing nearby.
As is the case with the church in Cheriton, Pennard Church seems to be the replacement for an earlier, abandoned church. The original was close to Pennard Castle, overlooking nearby Three Cliffs Bay, which eventually succumbed to the encroaching sand dunes which still threaten what is left of the castle.
The battlemented west tower is tiny, almost a miniature, and anyone climbing it would have to be a lot smaller and slimmer than me to do so!
Inside, the most noticeable feature is the wooden gallery at the west end of the church, with a row of pews either side. This is where musicians would perform in times gone by. There is also a memorial tablet to Vernon Watkins, a renowned Gower poet, and contemporary and friend of Dylan Thomas. His remarkable wife Gwen, who recently passed away aged 101, was one of the Enigma codebreakers at Bletchley Park during World War Two.
St Illtyd, Oxwich
The hidden church in the woods
St Illtyd’s is one of the most enchanting Gower churches, secreted away on the wooded peninsula at the western end of vast Oxwich Bay. You can glimpse it through the trees during the winter months, but in spring and summer it’s completely hidden by the foliage, and it’s only accessible via the Coast Path.
A monastic cell was founded there in the 6th century AD, with some stories suggesting that St Illtud himself may have visited at some point (not beyond the bounds of possibility, as he was based around 30 miles to the east in Llantwit Major). Like St Mary’s Church in Pennard the exterior is whitewashed.
The church is simple both outside and within, but there are some fascinating features – particularly the effigies of a knight and (presumably) his wife, which may date from the early 15th century.
Opening hours: Oxwich church is usually only open during the summer months – for information call 07944 056335.
St Mary, Rhossili
12th-century church with memorial to Edgar Evans, a member of Scott’s fateful expedition to the South Pole
St Mary’s Church may well be the most visited of Gower churches thanks to its location in the village above sublime Rhossili Bay. Buses from Swansea to the village terminate a few steps from the church, and it’s well worth dropping by for a few minutes to explore it.
It’s a simple medieval church with a saddleback tower, a type common throughout South Wales. It replaced an earlier church built at a lower level closer to the beach, long since lost to the sand dunes.
The oldest part of the church is the late Romanesque south doorway, the sole survivor from this period on Gower. There is also a lepers’ window in the chancel, where sufferers of the disease could observe the service being conducted from outside.
Rhossili Church also attracts visitors keen to see the wall memorial to Petty Officer Edgar Evans, who was born in the village in 1876. He was one of four men who accompanied Captain Robert Falcon Scott in his expedition to the South Pole, which they reached in January 1912, a few weeks after Norwegian Roald Amundsen and his expedition arrived there. He died in the expedition tent, but his body was never found. The plaque was commissioned by his widow Lois.
Opening times: Daily 9.00 am to 5.00 pm year-round
St Cenydd, Llangennith
Ancient church dedicated to local 6th-century hermit saint
Llangennith church is the largest on Gower, dedicated to a saint with very humble origins. According to tradition he was placed in a cradle made of willow leaves and branches, floating (fortuitously!) from the Loughor estuary on the North Gower coast to Worm’s Head, the tidal island off Rhossili, a few miles to the south. It is said that seagulls and angels saved him, and that he was subsequently raised as a Christian.
It is also believed that he founded a monastic cell on the tidal islet of Burry Holms, at the northern end of Rhossili Beach. ‘Llan’ is a common prefix to many Welsh place names, and means a religious settlement – it’s sometimes translated as ‘church’, which is partly accurate. The circular boundary of the Llangennith ‘llan’ is still visible, which is quite rare in Wales.
The church was home to a tiny priory, with a Prior and a single monk, which the Earl of Warwick put under the control of an abbey in Evreux in Normandy.
Inside, there is a stone with a carved knotted pattern believed to date from the 9th century. There has been much speculation about its purpose, and some have suggested that it may have been the tombstone of St Cenydd. Another possibility is that it was the base of a large Celtic cross – the pattern is very similar to those on the famous crosses of Nevern and Carew in Pembrokeshire.
St Madoc, Llanmadoc
St Madoc’s is one of the smallest Gower churches, and also one of its oldest. Stone memorials within the church date from the 6th and 7th centuries, although the church was largely rebuilt during the 13th century.
At this time it was given to the Knights Templar, a military order responsible for protection of pilgrimage routes to Jerusalem, who were heavily involved in the Crusades. They were disbanded in 1312, and the church was then given over to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem. There’s nothing in the church to indicate its connection with either Order.
The small saddleback tower is unusual in that it is decorated with a parapet, something you seldom see in similar towers in Wales.
There is also a small wall memorial to Reverend J D Davies, who wrote a local history and founded a school in the village.
Opening times: daily, year round
St Catwg, Port Eynon
It’s believed that this church in the seaside village of Port Eynon was founded by St Cenydd (see Llangennith entry above) in the 6th century. A church was built on the site in the 12th century, but most of what you now see is a result of the 19th-century restoration. The elements that have survived from the earlier church include the font and a water stoup in the church porch.
The interior has some beautiful, richly coloured stained-glass windows from the 20th century, most of which was produced at studios in nearby Swansea.
The prominent Memorial in the churchyard is to the three lifeboatmen from the village who perished when trying to rescue the crew of the SS Dunvegan in 1916.
Opening times: daily 9.00 am to 5.00 pm, Easter to October
St Andrew, Penrice
This is the least accessible of the Gower churches I’ve written about here, but you can usually visit in the half hour or so before services. It’s a venerable, roughly hewn ancient church largely built from local limestone (possibly from nearby cliffs), dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The oldest part of the church is probably the round Romanesque chancel arch, which would have been from the first phase of building.
The church was owned for many years by the wealthy Mansel family, who lived for centuries in nearby Penrice Castle and the adjacent 18th-century mansion, one of the finest stately homes in Wales.
The porch of St Andrew’s is unusually large – it’s believed that it served as a place where business transactions were agreed, and it was later used as the local schoolroom.
Opening times: At the time of writing, services are held at 8.30 am on Sundays, so your best chance to see the church is half an hour or so beforehand, or immediately after the service.
St Illtyd, Ilston
This is a real mismatch of a church, a small nave and chancel paired with a comparatively massive, sturdy tower that would have been presented a formidable obstacle in many a Welsh castle.
Ilston is a bit off the beaten track for Gower, off the main A4118 Gower road, so most visitors would pass the turn-off not realising anything was there. The church is partly built in the Early English style of the 13th century, with the nave added the following century.
Inside the sanctuary (close to the altar) there is a memorial to the Mansel family, who were significant landowners in the Gower and Swansea area.
Visiting the Gower Peninsula
The most compelling reasons for visiting the area are, of course, the extraordinary Gower beaches. For me, Rhossili Beach reigns supreme, a glorious three-mile sweep of golden sand at the western end of the Peninsula, in a spectacular setting below 250-foot (80-metre) cliffs, a steep hill and the jagged tidal island of Worm’ Head. Rhossili is also the start and finishing point of some of the best Gower walks, especially the 5-mile (8 km) coastal hike from Port Eynon.
Further east, Three Cliffs Bay is one of the most beautiful beaches in Wales, a hidden sandy Arcadia at the foot of as valley with steep-sided sand dunes and ruined 13th-century Pennard Castle still staving off their advance.
There are plenty more things to do in the Gower, and its other castles – including those at Oxwich, Weobley and Oystermouth – adding another layer of history to uncover. And you can delve even further back in time, to some of the finest ancient sites in Wales, including Arthur’s Stone burial chamber on Cefn Bryn, and Sweyne’s Howes, on Rhossili Down.
All of the churches I’ve written about in this article are part of the Gower Pilgrimage Way, a recently established route linking 17 locations including chapels and ancient sites. The Gower Way is 48 miles long, and is easily doable within five days – four if you push on quickly! It’s not one of the traditional pilgrimages in Wales, but a hugely rewarding one I’d sign up for in a heartbeat.
How To Get To The Gower Peninsula
The Gower is just to the west of Wales’ second largest city, Swansea (Abertawe in Welsh). You can reach most places in Gower by bus from Swansea, though getting from one place to another on the Peninsula can be very time-consuming. This is why I suggest driving if you intend to explore Gower in depth. That said, if you’re driving in summer, you’ll be adding to the crowds, so the low and shoulder seasons (autumn, winter and spring) are good times to drive around Gower.
There are two main routes into Gower. The first is from M4 junction 42, following the A483 towards Swansea city centre, then the A4067 Mumbles road. From there, turn right from the seafront, following the brown Gower tourist sign – you’ll soon join the A4118, which leads you across the south of the Peninsula.
The other option is from M4 junction 47, to the north of Swansea. Follow the A483 south for a mile, then head right onto the A484. Turn left at the second roundabout for Gowerton, then follow the B4295 to the right. This road leads through the fishing village of Penclawdd, continuing to Llanrhidian, the main road junction in North Gower.
If you’re planning to explore Gower by public transport, take the train to Swansea and catch a bus or walk a mile to Swansea Bus station, from which several useful services depart. These include:
118 – Swansea to Rhossili, via Parkmill (for Three Cliffs Bay), Mondays to Saturdays
114 – Swansea to Rhossili via Oxwich and Port Eynon, Sundays
116 – Swansea to Oxwich and Port Eynon (with some connections to other buses on Gower)
116 and 119 – Swansea to Llanmadoc and Llangennith
Where To Stay On Gower
There are a small number of hotels on Gower, with holiday homes and caravan parks more popular choices. Here are a few of the best:
**** – King’s Head Inn – great pub with rooms across the road from Llangennith Church, a short walk from the beach
**** – Culver House Hotel – excellent Port Eynon hotel with superb sea views
**** – Parc Le Breos House – luxury country house hotel in central Gower, a short distance north of Three Cliffs Bay
**** – Oyster House – lovely beachfront hotel in Mumbles, with great views of Swansea Bay
Gower Churches – Final Thoughts
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to the churches on the Gower Peninsula. I’ve enjoyed visiting them over more than 30 years, and doing so has added depth to my enjoyment of this gorgeous part of Wales.
If you’re interested in visiting churches, take a look at my article on the best churches in Wales to visit, which covers over 30 churches across the whole country. And check out my Churches In The Black Mountains Itinerary, which covers five amazing remote churches near the English border.
If you’re planning to visit South Wales, take a look at some more of my articles here:
Best Castles In South Wales – 35 fascinating castles from the English b order to the far west of Wales
One Day In Cardiff – 24 hours in the capital of Cymru
33 Best Day Trips from Cardiff
20 Best Things To Do In The South Wales Valleys
20 Best Scenic Drives In Wales
14 Best Things To Do In Caerphilly
14 Brecon Beacons Mountains to Climb
15 Brecon Beacons Waterfalls To Discover
Things To Do In Tenby – the loveliest seaside town in Wales
Things To Do In St David’s – the smallest city in the UK, with a Cathedral and outstanding beaches and coastal walks
22 Incredible Landscapes In Wales To Explore
Staycation Wales – 20 great places to stay in Wales
Landmarks In Wales – from Snowdon to the Slate Landscape, Caernarfon to Cardiff and more
A470 Road Trip – the great south to north coast-to-coast trip through Wales
Best Seaside Towns In Wales – from Tenby to Llandudno, Barmouth to Barry and more
18 Most Beautiful Lakes In Wales
Cambrian Mountains – 28 Great Places To Visit
22 Wonderful Rivers In Wales To Explore
Best Places To Visit In Wales In Autumn
Wales In Winter – best places to visit and things to do