Renaissance, Romanesque, Rococo – discover the most beautiful churches in Florence and their many art treasures
The main churches in Florence stand apart from their counterparts around Italy. The white and black marble facades are a bit of a Tuscan trademark, but what lies behind them is just as striking.
Spend a few hours exploring Florence’s churches, and you’ll find treasures from the Romanesque period to the Renaissance, one of the finest cycles of medieval frescoes in Europe and the tomb of one of the most famous dynasties of the Middle Ages.
In this guide I show you the best churches in Florence, what to see in each, when they’re open, how to get to them and whether or not you need tickets to visit them.
Florence Cathedral – Duomo di Santa Maria del Fiore
The Duomo of Florence, the Cathedral of St Mary of the Flower, is one of the most recognizable churches in Europe and the world. Its dome by Filippo Brunelleschi, and the Campanile by pre-Renaissance polymath Giotto da Bondone, dominate the skyline of Florence, which has scarcely changed in six centuries.
You sometimes find churches that are fairly simple from outside, only to surprise you with a wealth of decoration within. With the Duomo in Florence, the opposite is the case. After all that dazzling marble outside, most of the interior (with the exception of the dome) is bare, empty and surprisingly dull.
I often love simple ancient Romanesque churches with minimal decoration, but here, it seems incongruous. I remember a conversation with a couple from Yorkshire in northern England when in first visited in the late 1990s. “It’s like they haven’t unpacked since they moved in,” remarked the wife. “Aye, more like they probably ran out of money after blowing it all on the outside,” ventured her husband.
However, it’s not entirely bare, with one of the largest collections of medieval stained glass in Italy, and the tombs of some of the leading figures of the Renaissance, including Brunelleschi and Giotto, and important figures from Florentine history including St Zenobius, the first bishop of Florence.
If your legs are up to it, I suggest climbing both the Campanile and dome – especially the former. The views are stupendous. The Campanile is the taller of the two, a short sharp slog up over 440 steps, but it’s immensely worth it. You are rewarded with amazing views of the rest of the Duomo and dome all the way up, and from the viewing gallery at the top there’s a superb view over the rest of the city.
The Baptistery is often a separate building from the cathedral in Italy – this is also the case in Pisa, Parma and Padua, to name a few. Florence’s Baptistery is one of the most famous. It’s immediately to the west of the Cathedral, octagonal in shape, and its exterior decorated in white and black marble like the Duomo. It has three outstanding sets of bronze doors, one by Andrea Pisano, the other two by Lorenzo Ghiberti.
Tickets – the best ticket to buy is the all-inclusive one which covers the Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Bell Tower and Dome. You can reserve this ticket here – it also includes an audio app
Santa Croce Basilica
Santa Croce – the Church of the Holy Cross – is one of the most famous churches in Florence. It’s the principal Franciscan church in the city, and a kind of Florentine Pantheon, the burial place of many famous figures from Florence’s history.
The Basilica was begun in 1294, but it wasn’t completed and consecrated until 1443, an epic 149 years later. It’s believed to be the largest Franciscan church in the world, and the cavernous nave is enormous and seemingly empty. But don’t be put off – you’ll find everything of interest along the side aisles, in the church’s many chapels.
It’s sometimes nicknamed ‘The Pantheon of Florence’ because so many prominent people from its history are buried there, including Michelangelo, Galileo Galilei and the immensely influential political writer Niccolo Machiavelli. There are also memorials to other Florentines and Tuscans who were buried elsewhere including Dante Alighieri (who was exiled and buried in Ravenna), Leonardo da Vinci (buried in the Loire Valley in France) and Guglielmo Marconi (buried at his birthplace near Bologna).
Santa Croce also has an impressive array of artworks, including frescoes in two chapels by Giotto da Bondone, sculptures by Donatello and frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi and Agnolo Gaddi.
The classic Florentine marble façade was added in the 19th century, having previously left bare and blank for centuries.
Opening times – Santa Croce is open daily between 9.30 am and 5.30 pm Monday to Saturday, and 12.30 to 5.45 pm on Sundays and holidays.
Tickets – the standard Santa Croce entrance ticket with audio guide is €14 – without the audio it’s €10. Otherwise this Santa Croce guided tour gives you the full lowdown on this remarkable church
Santa Maria Novella
Santa Maria Novella (New St Mary’s) was founded in 1420, the oldest of the great basilicas in Florence. It was founded by the Dominican Order, who started building it in the late 13th century. The name may be familiar to many visitors to Florence, who would have passed through the city’s main station nearby, which is named after the church.
The church has a classic marble Florentine façade, the work of Leon Battista Alberti, who also designed another Renaissance masterpiece, the Templo Malatestiana in Rimini. The church front includes part of the original Gothic façade, which blends beautifully with Alberti’s additional work.
The interior is just as compelling. The first surprise is the vast nave, an incredible 100 metres long. The second is the astonishing collection of art in the building. These include the pulpit and a Crucifixion sculpture by Filippo Brunelleschi, The Holy Trinity by Masaccio and as series of frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio in the Tornabuoni Chapel.
The Chapels and two Cloisters constitute the Santa Maria Novella Museum. The work that most impressed me in the church is the series of 14th-century frescoes in the Spanish Chapel by Andrea di Bonaiuto. One of these depicts St Dominic, founder of the Order that built the church.
Tickets – you can book the combined church and museum tickets here.
San Miniato al Monte
San Miniato is one of the lesser-known churches in Florence, hidden away up the hill a ten-minute walk beyond the tourist honeypot of Piazzale Michelangelo. The whole feeling changes as you climb the hill to this elevated spot, with its superb view over the Renaissance city, and without the crowds just down the hill.
The view is wondrous, but the main reason for this short climb is the exquisite church. Much of it was completed in the late 11th and early 12th centuries, including the extraordinary black and white marble façade which is believed to have been built around 1090.
The church is dedicated to an early Armenian martyr, St Minas (sometimes called St Minias). His bones are said to have been interred in the high altar of the church, but there’s a possibility that they may have been moved elsewhere.
Also look out for the beautiful apse mosaic from the late 13th century, and the magnificent marble tomb of Cardinal James of Lusitania, also known as the Cardinale del Portogallo.
As you leave, take some time to look around the stunning Monumental; Cemetery which surrounds the church. There are some outstanding tombs, including the one pictured of a mother looking down on her young children.
Getting there: Bus 12 stops close by, at Galileo San Miniato. Otherwise, ikt’s less than a 10-minute walk from the famous viewpoint at Piazzale Michelangelo.
San Lorenzo
The Basilica di San Lorenzo was the parish church of the Medici family which ruled Florence from 1434 to 1737. It was also Florence’s Cathedral for 300 years until the bishop’s seat was moved to nearby Santa Reparata, the predecessor of today’s Santa Maria del Fiore (see above).
The church is believed to have been founded in 393 AD by St Ambrose, but the present building was only begun in 1419, when a new church was commissioned by Giovanni di Bicci de’ Medici. Filippo Brunelleschi, responsible for the Cathedral dome close by, was put in charge, but due to funding problems only the Old Sacristy (Sagrestia Vecchia) was completed before he died in 1446. The bronze doors of this part of the church are the work of Donatello, as are the reliefs on the two pulpits.
While Gothic architecture was flourishing elsewhere in Europe, San Lorenzo was very much an early renaissance church. The columns inside resemble those of a Greek temple, and the ceiling is flat rather than stone-vaulted as were many of its contemporaries. It’s fascinating to see it in a wider context, as it preceded and to some degree influenced the works of Andrea Palladio – who built some of the most beautiful churches in Venice – a century later.
San Lorenzo and the surrounding street markets
San Lorenzo is best-known for the two Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels), which house the tombs of all the most prominent Medici rulers, from the first ruler Cosimo to the last of the Medici, Gian Gastone I. The main chapel is the Cappella dei Principi (Princes’ Chapel), where the majority of the Grand Dukes are buried. Other prominent Medici including Lorenzo are interred in the Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), where you can see the sublime Medici Madonna sculpture by Michelangelo on the altar.
Michelangelo also contributed two other superb statues in the New Sacristy. He was also asked to design a new marble façade for the church, but this never came to fruition. Instead, the bare brick façade remains just as it was when he would have seen it over 500 years ago.
Tickets – you can book your entry to the Medici Chapels here. The Chapels are also part of the Bargello Museum combination ticket, which also includes the Orsanmichele church, Bargello Museum and two other sites – this costs just €21 and is valid for three days.
Santa Maria del Carmine (for Cappella Brancacci)
This church, in the Oltrarno district (across the river from the city centre) is famous because of the superb 15th-century frescoes in the Brancacci Chapel.
As its name suggests, it’s the main Carmelite church in Florence, and is attached to the convent founded in 1268. The simple brick exterior might lead you to expect a medieval interior, but the church suffered a serious fire in 1771, so it was restored ion the florid, elaborate Rococo style over the following decade.
The Cappella Brancacci, commissioned by a wealthy Florentine family in 1423, was begun by Masolino da Panicale in 1425, and subsequently taken over by his student Masaccio. He in turn left before the series of frescoes was complete, and he died in Rome soon afterwards, so Filippino Lippi completed the cycle of paintings.
The frescoes in the Cappella Brancacci are considered one of the great works of the early Renaissance. The realistic portrayal of the subjects may well have been inspired by the work of Giotto, who completed the astounding cycle of frescoes in the Cappella degli Scrovegni in Padua between 1303 and 1305. Like the Scrovegni Chapel, your visit is limited to just 30 minutes in the Chapel. I could have spent much longer there than that.
While there, take a few minutes to see the Baroque Corsini Chapel, which houses the remains of St Andrea Corsini, a 14th-century bishop of nearby Fiesole.
Tickets – you can book your guided tour of the Cappella Brancacci frescoes here.
Orsanmichele
You could be forgiven for thinking that Orsanmichele doesn’t look like a church. When I first sought it out in the late ‘90s, I walked past it three or four times, questioning my map-reading ability, before catching a glimpse of a sign telling me what this austere secular-looking building was.
The 14th-century building housing this former church – it’s now a Museum – was originally a grain market. By the late 14th century the building was converted into a church serving the main guilds in Florence, which included merchants, bankers, craftsmen, weavers and doctors. Each guild was represented by a statue of its patron saint around the outside of the church.
Most of the original sculptures can now be seen in the Orsanmichele Museum, upstairs from the church, which occupies the ground floor. It’s a wonderful example of Florentine Gothic architecture, with some beautiful painted vaults from the 1390s. Also don’t miss the stunning marble tabernacle by Andrea l’Orcagna. Built to house a Madonna and Child by Bernardo Daddi.
The Church and Museum are open every day of the week except Tuesdays, with early closing at 1.30 pm on Sundays.
The Orsanmichele can be visited on the same Bargello Museum combination ticket as the Medici Chapels in San Lorenzo Basilica and the Bargello itself.
Tickets – individual entry to the Orsanmichele is €8.00.
Santo Spirito
Santo Spirito, on the Oltrarno side of the river, is the main Augustinian church in Florence. Behind the plain façade is another fine Renaissance church with some similarities (ceiling and columns) to the Basilica of San Lorenzo across the river.
The Augustinian convent was founded in 1250, and the present church was built in the 15th century. The famous architect Filippo Brunelleschi submitted designs for the church, but he died soon after the first columns were delivered to the building site.
As you’d come to expect, the church has a wealth of artworks. The most renowned of these is a wooden Crucifix by Michelangelo. It’s one of his earliest works, sculpted when he was 17 years old. It’s in the Sacristy, which is in the Museum part of the church, along with two cloisters and a beautiful coffered ceiling by Andrea Sansovino.
The Church occupies one side of Piazza Santo Spirito, one of the loveliest squares in Florence. It’s frequented by locals and students more than tourists, and is a beautiful spot to enjoy a drink or two on a warm summer’s evening.
Tickets – entry to the church is free, and a donation of €2.00 is requested if you’re visiting the Museum
Santissima Annunziata
The Basilica of Santissima Annunziata – the Holy Annunciation – is another Florence Renaissance church, but much of its decoration was added over the Baroque period over the following two centuries.
The church was founded by the Servite Order in 1250. It became famous thanks to a miracle there in 1252, when a monk was painting the Annunciation (when an angel appears to the Virgin Mary to inform her of that she had been chosen by God to give birth to his son). He was struggling with painting Mary’s face and fell asleep, and later awoke to find the painting completed. This attracted a steady stream of devotees over the next few hundred years.
Santissima Annunziata is one of the most lavishly decorated churches in Florence, with an opulent Temple within the church built to show the miraculous Annunciation painting. The ceiling is decorated with a fine fresco of the Assumption of Mary by Pietro Giambelli.
The side chapels also get the full Baroque makeover, with marble statues including a Crucifix by Giambologna and several more frescoes. Also take time to look at the frescoes on the arcade walls of the Chiostro dei Voti, with several by Andrea del Sarto.
Tickets – entry to the church is free
Where To Stay In Florence
There is a wealth of fantastic places to stay in Florence. Here is my selection, all of which are within easy walking distance of the main churches in Florence:
***** – Golden Tower Hotel & Spa – superb central location within a few minutes’ walking distance of many of the churches I’ve written about here
**** – Hotel degli Orafi – luxury hotel in a 13th-century convent building overlooking the Arno river and Ponte Vecchio bridge
**** – B&B La Terrazza Sul Duomo – B&B in outstanding location overlooking the Duomo, Campanile and Baptistery
**** – Secret Garden Firenze B&B – lovely quiet B&B a few minutes’ walk from Santissima Annunziata and the Accademia Gallery
**** – Hotel Palazzo del Borgo – Renaissance period palazzo around the corner from Santa Maria Novella church and station
Churches in Florence – Final Thoughts
I hope this guide inspires you to visit more Florence churches than perhaps you would have otherwise. The city has one of the richest ecclesiastical heritages of any city in Europe, and if you’re an aficionado like me, visiting all olf these churches would take you the best part of two days.
For more articles on the city and Tuscany, check out my guides to Photographing Florence and the best Tuscany hidden gems to seek out. If you’re wondering where to stay, check out my guide to the Best Places To Stay In Tuscany. Also take a look at my guide to spending One Day in Pisa, Florence’s historic rival with its famous Leaning Tower.
If you’re seeking more inspiration for travel around Italy, take a look at my Italy Travel Guide page. I’ve covered the length and breadth of the country, so whether it’s Venice Off The Beaten Path, wondrous Ortigia in Sicily or Things To Do In Bologna or Padua, there’s so much more for you to discover.
I also write extensively about churches in Europe. Here is a small selection of churches – and cities – I’ve written about:
14 Most Beautiful Churches In Venice – from Byzantine San Marco to the marvels of Venetian Baroque via the Renaissance
20 Most Beautiful Churches In Prague – from St Vitus Cathedral to the stunning Týn Church and many more
15 Most Beautiful Churches In Vienna – from Gothic glories like the Stephansdom to Baroque beauties such as the Karlskirche
6 Best Churches in Dresden To Visit – including the stunning rebuilt Frauenkirche
22 Famous Churches in Paris – the birthplace of Gothic architecture, many of its greatest glories – and a whole lot more
25 Most Beautiful Churches in London – from St Paul’s and Westminster Abbey to Sir Christopher Wren’s hidden gems