A dragon’s back on a roof, pillars like trees, a mosaic salamander fountain – welcome to the wild world of Art Nouveau Barcelona
Art Nouveau Barcelona is home to some of the most amazing, radical, out there architecture Europe has ever produced. Antoni Gaudi, architect of the monumental Sagrada Familia church, is its most famous exponent, but several of his contemporaries also created equally amazing buildings between the late 1880s and 1910, when Catalan modernisme – the regional variant of Art Nouveau – flourished.
Art Nouveau varied greatly around Europe. It was influenced by the Arts and Crafts movement of late 19th century Britain, but each region and country had its own variant. Hungarian Art Nouveau was known as Szecesszió (Secession), while in Germany it was known as Jugendstil.
Like its Hungarian equivalent, Catalan Art Nouveau partly grew out of a greater Catalan national consciousness. This wasn’t confined to architecture – it also encompassed visual arts and literature.
And there wasn’t any kind of uniform style. One row of houses in the city contains three very different Barcelona Art Nouveau houses – one is a German Baltic-style gabled mansion, another is decorated with ornate, florid stonework with possible Moorish and Baroque influences. And the third has an extraordinary roof that seems to be modelled on the scaly back of a dragon.
In this article I’ll show you ten of the best Art Nouveau buildings in Barcelona. I’ll describe each of them in detail, explain where they are and how to get to each. Some are widely known, others off the beaten track hidden gems. I’ll also suggest guided tours wherever possible. Enjoy!
Art Nouveau Barcelona
Buildings By Antoni Gaudi
Gaudi is by far the most famous of the Barcelona modernista architects, but he was always an outlier. A deeply religious man, his work was greatly inspired by nature and natural forms. The astonishing Sagrada Familia church is his most famous work and I’ve included it here, but everything the man ever did was a complete one-off. He was to 20th-century architecture what Pablo Picasso was to 20th-century art, a revolutionary (though perhaps evolutionary may be a better word) genius.
1. Casa Batlló
Industrialist Josep Batlló bought a house on fashionable Passeig de Gracia in 1903. But the location wasn’t enough for him. He wanted something daring, that would stand out and seriously impress the neighbours. Enter Señor Antoni Gaudi I Cornet, who was also working on the Park Güell at the time. He wanted the house remodelled. He got that. He wanted something a bit different. He got that alright. A dragon’s back on your rooftop, sir? Yes, he got that too.
Casa Batlló is known as the ‘casa dos ossos’, the house of bones. The balcony balustrades are the main bony feature, like pelvis bones knocked into the wall to stop residents falling onto the street. The wall is a gorgeous series of floral mosaics, reaching all the way to that rooftop.
The dragon’s back is made from ceramic tiles, and it stands next to an unusual turret that, depending on your viewpoint, resembles a flower, vegetable or onion dome of an Eastern Orthodox church. The rooftop is also adorned with superb bright ceramic chimney stacks.
Tickets start at €33 per adult, with kids under 12 visiting for free. The standard ‘blue’ and ‘silver’ tickets give access to most of the interesting areas of the building. The gold and platinum options also give you access to the Batllos’ living area on the first floor.
Getting there: Metro to Passeig de Gracia
Tickets: Follow this link for the Casa Batllo self-guided audio tour
2. Park Güell
Gaudi’s Park Güell (pronounced ‘Gway’) is one of the most popular Gaudi sites in Barcelona, a park on a hill overlooking the city and Mediterranean. It was originally intended to be a housing development which never came to fruition. And Gaudi lived there until 1925, in a house which is now the Gaudi Museum.
Be warned – this is no ordinary park, it’s a riotous fantasy world. The two houses at the main entrance look like they’re made from gingerbread, and the blue and white mosaic turret on one of them can leave you feeling you’ve walked onto the set of a children’s TV series from the 1970s.
One of the joys of visiting Park Güell is that you can see so much of his extraordinary work up close. The outer wall and, most famously, the terrace wall and wavy benches are all decorated with superb mosaics. And don’t miss the magical mosaic dragon (I’ve also heard it called a salamander) fountain in the gardens.
Getting there: Metro L3 to Lesseps
Entry: Book your Park Güell tickets here. For a guided tour of the Park, follow this link .
3. Sagrada Familia
The Basilica I Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia – the Basilica of the Holy Family – is the most famous of Antoni Gaudi’s works. He took over the building of this vast church in 1883 after the resignation of the original architect. The scale – and pace – of the project is like that of many great medieval European cathedrals, which often spanned centuries.
This is partly explained by the fact that it has only ever been funded by donations, with no government help. When I first visited in the late 1990s, there were just two sets of spires and one complete façade. The progress since has been staggering, with much of the interior now completed and the base of the central tower in place. The spire that will cover this will be the tallest church tower in the world. And another four spires, similar to those already completed, are also in construction.
It was hoped that the Sagrada Familia would be completed by 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death, though the scheduled completion date is now between 2030 and 2032.
It’s fascinating to see how different parts of the Basilica vary. The Nativity façade, on the east side of the church, was the first to be built. The statuary on it is similar to traditional Gothic sculpture. The Passion façade, on the western side of the Basilica, is very different in feel, much harsher and more austere. Many of the figures are angular, and the Roman soldiers escorting Jesus to his crucifixion look like something out of Star Wars. Their helmets are very similar to the chimneys on the rooftop of La Pedrera (see below).
The interior is a breathtaking sight, and here, more than anywhere else, you can see the influence of nature, the thin pillars resembling the barks of trees, even perhaps the stems of flowers.
Barcelona has become horribly overtouristed in the 30 years since I first visited the city. But this church is one of the most outstanding creations of the modern age, and I’d urge anyone to see it at least once in their lifetime.
Getting there: Metro L2 or L5 to Sagrada Familia – the station exits are across the street from the Basilica.
Entry: There are always long queues at Sagrada Familia, so I recommend this skip-the-line entry ticket with the option of a guided or self-guided tour.
4. Casa Milà (La Pedrera)
La Pedrera (‘the quarry’) is an apartment block on the corner of Passeig de Gracia and Carrer de Provença in the Eixample district of the city. Built for Pere Milà and Roser Segimon, a coffee heiress, between 1906 and 1912, it’s one of the best-known Gaudi buildings in Barcelona, and one of the most famous Spanish landmarks.
La Pedrera caused a lot of controversy when it was built. As I recall a fellow visitor saying on the rooftop, ’There isn’t a straight line in sight’. The apartment balconies are curved, resembling waves of water. The rooftop is filled with numerous sculptures, many doubling as air vents, and Gaudi planned a prominent statue of the Virgin Mary there too. The owners strongly disapproved, and Gaudi almost resigned from the project as a result. The nickname ‘La Pedrera’ was meant to be derogatory, but it stuck – for over a century!
The building looks fantastic from across the street, but the best place to appreciate it is on the rooftop. According to the building’s website, the air vents are meant to symbolise soldiers turned to stone.
The standard La Pedrera ticket includes entry to the rooftop, the two courtyards (Butterfly and Flower) and an apartment decorated and furnished as it would have been in the early 20th century. There are also exclusive tours taking you to some areas not usually open to the public, and sunrise and night visits to the rooftop.
Getting there: Metro to Passeig de Gracia.
Entry: You can book the standard Casa Mila La Pedrera ticket here. And you can also book the evening rooftop tour, with all the sculptures lit up at dusk, by following this link.
5. Pavellons Güell
The Güell Pavilions, in the northern suburb of Pedralbes, are one of Gaudi’s early works, and his first for patron, collaborator and friend Eusebi Güell.
Güell was a wealthy industrialist, having inherited a family fortune and made another from his textile business. In 1884 he was renovating part of his estate, and commissioned young Gaudi to build the gatehouses, the dragon gate and, inside, a stable block and training building for the horses.
The most renowned part of this early Gaudi work is the wrought iron dragon. It’s named Ladon, after the creature defeated by Hercules in the mythological Garden of the Hesperides.
Getting there: Metro L3 to Palau Reial, then a 400-metre walk (turn left up Avinguda de Pedralbes – it’s 250 metres along the street on your left).
Visiting times: The Pavellons aren’t open at the time of writing, but you can see the exterior of the buildings and the dragon gate from the street.
Buildings By Lluis Domenech I Montaner
1. Museu Antoni Tàpies
This red-brick museum, crowned by a metal sculpture that could easily have been called ‘Bad Hair Day’, is possibly the first building of the Barcelona Art Nouveau movement.
Domenech I Montaner had visited Prussia and the Baltic region shortly before beginning work on this building, which looks like an ornate factory front. The area he visited has a rich tradition of usage of red brick in everything from castles, churches, town halls to housing. And this building, constructed between 1880 and 1885, offers up a few hints of what was to follow over the next 30 years in Barcelona.
The Arab influence is clear in the shapes of some of the smaller windows, and the intricate brick patterns are a forerunner of similar ideas that are explored later in the modernista period. There is also ornate patterned metalwork along the top of the building, another feature that others like Gaudi came to use in the following decades.
Where: Carrer d’Arago 255 – a two-minute walk from Casa Batlló
Getting there: Metro L2, L3 and L4 to Passeig de Gracia
Opening times: Tuesdays to Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm, and Sunday 10 am to 3 pm.
2. Casa Lleo Morera
Another of Domenech i Montaner’s buildings is a short walk away, just around the corner on the busy Passeig de Gracia. Casa Lleo Morera – named after the original owner’s son, Albert Lleo i Morera. It’s at the end of the famous Illa de la Discordia (Manzana de la Discordia in Spanish, Block of Discord in English), a few doors away from Gaudi’s Casa Batlló.
It’s very different from the red-brick Tapies Museum around the corner, but there are also some similarities, including the patterned decorative stonework. Casa Lleo Morera was built between 1902 and 1905, with much more lavish decoration than its predecessor. There’s some Arab influence in the patterned stonework, windows and pinnacles along the roofline, and also a turret (or tempietto) more reminiscent of the Baroque period, complete with modernista mosaics.
Where: Passeig de Gracia 35, on the corner of Carrer del Consell de Cent
Getting there: Metro L2, L3 and L4 to Passeig de Gracia
Visiting times: English guided tours are scheduled for 11.00 daily Tuesdays to Sundays. The house is closed Mondays. The tours visit the first floor of the house. You can book tickets here.
Tours: This Barcelona walking tour covers the Gaudi and other modernista sites along Passeig de Gracia, and includes over an hour exploring the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) nearby.
3. Palau de la Musica Catalana
The ‘Palace of Catalan Music’ is magnificent from outside, but its interior is perhaps the most beautiful of all Barcelona Art Nouveau buildings.
It’s in quite a confined space on the corner of two narrow streets – it would have looked even more impressive with some more space to appreciate it. The façade is decorated with several figures, from Sant Jordi (St George, the patron saint of Catalonia) to Beethoven, Bach and Wagner.
However, the best is inside. There are two rooms on the standard guided or self-guided tour which you absolutely must see – the Main Auditorium and the balcony of the Sala Lluis Millet.
The Main Auditorium is one of the most beautiful concert halls you’ll ever see. It’s flooded with colour and light from the stained-glass windows and skylight. The Sala Lluis Milletg is where audience members go for a drink during concert intervals. The adjacent balcony is stunning, its pillars beautifully decorated with floral and other patterns.
Getting there: Metro to Urquinaona, or a 5-minute walk from Plaça de Catalunya.
Visiting times: It’s open 9.30 am to 3.30 pm daily.
Tours: This self-guided tour of the Palau de la Musica (with audio) is a great way to explore the building at your own pace
4. Hospital de Sant Pau
This hospital complex – originally dating back to the early 15th century – was rebuilt by Domenech I Montaner between 1905 and 1930. It’s the largest complex of Barcelona Art Nouveau buildings, with twelve pavilions interconnected with corridors underground. Most of the functions of the Hospital have now moved to the modern building next door, but some departments remain there to this day.
After the closure of the crowded hospital in the Raval district, the new hospital was a whole new world, with far more space for patients and pleasant surroundings far more conducive to recovery and recuperation.
You can visit the Hospital on a self-guided tour daily, and there is only an English guided tour on Saturdays. The visit includes four of the twelve buildings and the gardens.
Getting there: Metro to Sant Pau-Dos de Maig
Visiting times: Daily 9.30 am to 6.30 pm (April to October), and 9.30 am to 5 pm November to March
Tours: this ticket covers the former Hospital and grounds, and is worth booking in advance as it often sells out.
Buildings By Josep Vilaseca I Casanovas
1. Arc de Triomf
Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main entrance to the 1888 World Fair, which was held in the Parc de la Ciutadella. It’s at the northern end of Passeig de Lluis Companys, a grand promenade leading to the park.
The Arc de Triomf – partly influenced by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris – was built in red brick, like several other early modernista buildings in Barcelona. It also includes several Mudejar Revival features. This style of architecture evolved after the most Muslims were expelled from Spain after the Christian Reconquista of the country. Mudejar architects were Muslims who stayed on, working for Christian employers, often on Christian projects including churches.
Vilaseca de Casanovas, like contemporaries Gaudi and Domenech i Montaner, incorporated Mudejar elements into his designs, particularly the pillars and turrets. The many sculptures add to its exotic appearance.
Continue your walk along the promenade, crossing the street ahead to enter the Parc proper. Immediately after entering, you’ll see the red-brick Castell dels Tres Dragons, now Barcelona’s Zoological Museum.
Getting there: Metro L1 or train to Arc de Triomf
Visiting times: You can see it 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
2. Casa Bruno Cuadros
This early Art Nouveau building pr ceded Vilaseca de Casanovas’ Arc de Triomf by a few years. In 1883 he was commissioned to re-design a renowned umbrella shop on La Rambla, the city’s famous pedestrian street.
And he did so with Oriental motifs, particularly the Japanese-style umbrellas on the walls of the building’s main facade. But its best-known feature is the Chinese dragon on the corner of the building, with an umbrella hanging below. A bizarre combination, perhaps, but there are plenty more of those in Barcelona.
Getting there: Metro to Liceu (L3); the building is very close to the famous Joan Miro pavement mosaic roughly halfway along La Rambla.
Visiting times: You can only see the building exterior, as the premises are now occupied by a bank.
Buildings By Josep Puig I Cadafalch
1. Casa de les Punxes
The ‘House of Points’ or ‘House of Spires’ is one of my favourite Art Nouveau Barcelona buildings. Built between 1903 and 1905 by Josep Puig i Cadafalch, it continues the eclectic theme of the city’s modernisme movement, this time with a building that, if anything, most resembles a fairytale castle in Germany (Reichsburg Castle in Cochem, or Hohenzollern Castle near Stuttgart).
Puig I Cadafalch built Casa de les Punxes for his client Bartomeu Terrades Brutau, who inherited a very successful textiles business (the building is also sometimes called Casa Terrades). It consists of three houses, one each for the sisters of Bartomeu, though from the street they appear to be a single block.
After restoration, Casa de les Punxes was opened to the public for tours, but this ended with the 2020 Covid pandemic. Sadly it hasn’t reopened since. The building is now used for offices with co-working spaces – you might not be able to visit on a tour, but you could take pot luck and rent a desk for €25 a day. You might get to see some of the superb stained glass and sculpture inside!
Getting there: Metro L3 or L5 to Diagonal, then a short walk via Carrer del Rossello.
Where To Stay In Barcelona
There are thousands of places to stay in Barcelona. We recommend staying in hotels or guesthouses in Barcelona rather than Airbnbs, which have had a ruinous effect on the city, driving rents up to unaffordable levels for many.
***** – Hotel Casa Fuster GL Monumento – stunning modernista hotel built by architect extraordinaire Lluis Domenech I Montaner – a great place to stay if you want the full Art Nouveau Barcelona experience
***** – Lamaro Hotel – world-class hotel across the square from Barcelona’s beautiful medieval Cathedral
*** – Hotel Granvia – popular midrange hotel in superb location, a 5-minute walk from some of the best modernista buildings on Passeig de Gracia
*** – Hotel Gaudi – great 3-star option just off La Rambla – don’t miss the view of the rooftop sculptures across the street at Palau Güell from the hotel’s rooftop bar
** – El Born Guest House by Casa Consell – superb guest house near the beach, and just over a mile from the modernista buildings in the Eixample district – great if you’re visiting Barcelona on a budget
Art Nouveau Barcelona – Final Thoughts
I hope you’ve enjoyed this guide to some of the best Art Nouveau buildings in Barcelona.
If you’re interested in Art Nouveau architecture around Europe, check out my guides to Art Nouveau Prague (our former home city) and Art Nouveau Budapest. Both cities have a wealth of amazing architecture from this period, as well as plenty more.
If you enjoy other early 20th century architecture, I also suggest taking a look at my guide to visiting Villa Tugendhat Brno, a functionalist villa a world away the curves and wavy lines of Art Nouveau less than 20 years before it was built.
For more articles on Spain, check out my guides to the most famous Spanish landmarks and the best Things To Do In Cordoba, the stunning Andalucian city.
David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.