There aren’t many roads in the world that take you the entire length of a country. And that’s what makes an A470 road trip through Wales so special.
The A470 takes you from the capital of Wales through its rural backwoods and some of its most beautiful mountain scenery. It takes you from the predominantly English-speaking south to the Welsh-speaking heartlands of north-west Wales. And it’s one of the most magical journeys you could ever make.
You can drive the A470 in around 5 hours, end-to-end. Or you could take it easy with a few stops on the way and stretch it into a five-day road trip through Wales to savour. In this article I show you both ways. I show you places to visit along – and just off – the way, as well as the best places to stay and eat on your journey.
The A470 – An Introduction
It’s one of just two roads that runs the length of Wales
It runs through 2 of Wales’ 3 National Parks
It runs through six counties
It passes six Castles
It passes two of Wales’ six Anglican cathedrals
It passes three of the 4 traditional great mountains of Wales
It passes two UNESCO World Heritage Sites
It runs through some of the most beautiful scenery in the country
And some of the best views in Wales
What’s The A470 Like To Drive?
The A470 is not a fast road to drive. It’s a varied road, with turns and twists through a largely mountainous landscape. Sometimes it’s a speedy dual carriageway. At many other times it’s a single carriageway road in each direction, with little in the way of opportunity for overtaking, sometimes for several miles at a time.
And as the road passes through numerous towns and villages, there are many places with a 30-mph speed limit in place. So it can feel like slow-going sometimes.
My cousin from North Wales – who lives in the south – refuses to drive the A470. He prefers to drive into England and follow the motorways through the West Midlands, then the A5 across North Wales. He told me it is generally an hour quicker than the A470.
As the road passes through many towns and villages, there are many places with a 30 mph speed limit in place.
Where Is The A470?
The A470 runs from Cardiff, the capital of Wales on its south coast, to Llandudno, one of the main seaside resorts on the north coast.
It runs from Cardiff via Merthyr Tydfil, Brecon, Builth Wells, Rhayader, Llanidloes, Dolgellau, Blaenau Ffestiniog and Betws-y-Coed.
How Long Does It Take To Drive The A470?
You could drive the A470 from end to end in around 5 hours.
However, if you’re going to drive it in one day, I recommend adding in the 20-mile Elan Valley detour, which takes at least an hour.
I recommend stopping at several points along the way, whether it’s for a coffee, lunch or photos. I’ll point out all of the best places in my detailed route description later in the article.
Best Places To See On The A470
Castell Coch – fairytale forest castle above the A470 as you leave Cardiff behind
Brecon Beacons – the road from Storey Arms to Libanus, with the option of a climb up the highest peak in southern Britain, Pen y Fan
Rhayader and the Elan Valley – lovely market town, and departure point for the scenic drive around the reservoirs
Bwlch yr Oerddrws – spectacular mountain pass, and entrance point to the Snowdonia National Park
Cadair Idris – formidable mountain above Dolgellau and the gorgeous Mawddach estuary
Blaenau Ffestiniog – dramatic slate quarrying town, now a World Heritage Site and adrenaline activity centre
Dolwyddelan Castle – a Welsh prince’s castle surrounded by stunning mountains
Betws-y-Coed – once an artists’ colony, now the most popular gateway to Snowdonia
Bodnant Garden – showpiece National Trust garden with breathtaking mountain views, especially beautiful in springtime
Conwy Castle – you glimpse it on your left as you approach Llandudno Junction and the last leg of your journey – don’t miss this, one of the best castles in North Wales.
Most Scenic Stretches of the A470
Brecon Beacons – Merthyr Tydfil to Brecon – especially Storey Arms to Libanus
Upper Wye Valley – Llyswen to Builth Wells
Upper Wye Valley -= Rhayader to Llangurig
Dinas Mawddwy to Dolgellau
Dolgellau to Blaenau Ffestiniog – via Trawsfynydd
Blaenau Ffestiniog to Dolwyddelan – over the Crimea Pass into the Lledr Valley
Llanrwst to Conwy
Best Detours Off The A470
There are some wonderful scenic detours off the A470, and one or two short cuts along the way as well. If you’re driving the A470 in one day, I’d consider the Elan Valley and Clywedog detours.
Mynydd Eppynt – the B4520 from Brecon to Builth Wells saves a little time, running through some lovely countryside – worth doing if you drive through Wales regularly;
Elan Valley – a 20-mile circuit from Rhayader, passing a series of dams and reservoirs in the empty heart of the Cambrian Mountains;
Llanidloes to Llanbrynmair – the big dipper B4518 passes Llyn Clywedog reservoir before heading north – and there’s also the alternative of the minor road to Dylife, which leads to Machynlleth, from which you can rejoin the A470;
Barmouth, Harlech and Portmeirion – the riverside and coastal A496 route is magnificent, passing one of the best seaside towns in Wales and one of the greatest castles in North Wales. A minor road across the Dwyryd estuary leads you to the stunning Italianate fantasy village of Portmeirion;
Betws-y-Coed to Snowdon – via the equally scenic A5.
Best Towns To Stay On The A470
Cardiff
Brecon
Rhayader
Dolgellau
Betws-y-Coed
Conwy or Llandudno
Best Hotels To Stay On The A470
Plas Weunydd, Blaenau Ffestiniog
Best Places To Eat On The A470
Felin Fach Griffin
The Aleppo Merchant, Carno
Cross Foxes Grill & Bar
Tu Hwnt I’r Bont – tearooms in a gorgeous riverside house in Llanrwst
A470 Road Trip
Stage 1 – Cardiff to Brecon
The A470 begins at a roundabout in Cardiff Bay, the redeveloped dockland area that’s now the centre of Welsh politics and government. The roundabout is next to the outstanding Wales Millennium Centre, the arts centre with the distinctive ‘armadillo’ roof and inscription on its front façade.
The road begins its epic journey up Lloyd George Avenue, before suddenly disappearing from road signs. The former route of the A470 – along St Mary Street in the centre – is now pedestrianised, so you need to turn left onto Callaghan Square, then right onto Bute Street. Head under the railway bridge here before a right turn to Churchill Way.
You then continue past Queen Street station to the junction with the A4161 – continue left / ahead, passing the elegant Edwardian City Hall and National Museum on your right. Position yourself in a lane to turn right onto North Road and the A470. The stone walls to your left are the outer walls of Cardiff Castle.
North Road leads you out into the suburbs of Cardiff, over the Gabalfa Flyover from which passengers can see Llandaff Cathedral to the left. You pass Birchgrove, Rhiwbina, Coryton then junction 32 of the M4, before you get your first view of the Welsh countryside. Here you enter the Taff Gorge, with the romantic folly of Castell Coch high in the forest on your right. One of the most famous landmarks in Wales, this was built by the great Victorian architect William Burges, who was also responsible for Cardiff Castle.
You then pass the Garth Mountain on your right. The movie The Englishman Who Went Up A Hill And Came Down A Mountain was based on this, but it was shot elsewhere in Wales.
Diversion – Caerphilly Castle
If you’re interested in Welsh Castles, one of the best of them can be reached via the A468. Caerphilly Castle is clearly signposted – go right up the hill, and take the B4600 to the town centre at the top. It’s the largest castle in Wales, and second largest by area in the British Isles. It’s surrounded by lakes, and was one of the first concentric castles in Britain to use water defences.
Hidden away off the same junction with the A470, the Nantgarw China Works Museum is a wonderful reminder of largely forgotten Welsh industrial history. Porcelain was produced there between 1813 and 1822, and earthenware and clay pipes were made until the works were closed in 1870. The Museum is open Wednesdays to Saturdays, 10.00 am to 4.00 pm.
By this point, you have entered the South Wales Valleys. From the late 19th century to the 1970s this was one of the leading coal producing regions in the world. Much of the region has returned to its natural greenness, though you can still explore its mining past at Rhondda Heritage Park (now rebranded A Welsh Coal Mining Experience), signposted at Pontypridd.
The A470 continues past Pontypridd and the Taff Vale towards Merthyr Tydfil. The town was one of the most important cradles of the Industrial Revolution in Wales, and as you drive past you may catch a glimpse of Cyfarthfa Castle – home of the Crawshay Ironmasters – on your right.
As you pass the junction with the A465 Heads of the Valleys road, you enter Bannau Brycheiniog, more widely known by its English name, the Brecon Beacons National Park. The terrain here changes within a minute or two – suddenly there’s a scree slope to your right, then a series of lakes to the left as the road gradually climbs.
Diversion – Pen y Fan
After the third lake (Beacons Reservoir) you reach Pont ar Daf, then Storey Arms. To the right of the road, the most popular path up Pen y Fan, the highest mountain in the Beacons and South Wales, begins. It has usually taken me between 45 minutes and an hour to reach the summit, though adverse conditions (wind, rain, ice) can make the climb considerably longer.
But If the weather is good, you’ll be rewarded with astounding views over South Wales, the Bristol Channel and the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales.
Stay on the A470 as it passes Storey Arms, running down the spectacular Tarell valley towards the village of Libanus. You’ll get plenty of views of Pen y Fan and Corn Du as you continue towards Brecon (Aberhonddu). One option is turning off on the A4215 and following signs to the Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre where there is an excellent café.
Otherwise, you soon reach the roundabout with the A40. Here you have the option of continuing (right) along the A470 on the Brecon bypass, or driving straight ahead into Brecon town centre.
Overnight Stop – Brecon (Aberhonddu)
Brecon makes a natural first staging post on your journey up the A470. It’s an attractive market town with a small but impressive Cathedral, the ruins of a Castle and, for lovers of military history, the excellent Royal Welsh Museum.
The Regiment’s history extends back to 1689, and the sections on the Anglo-Zulu War and the First World War are particularly fascinating.
Where To Stay In Brecon
My top recommendation is Peterstone Court Country House & Spa, three miles from the town on the A40. It’s a 5-star restaurant with luxury rooms, and breathtaking views of Pen y Fan and the Bannau Brycheiniog.
I also recommend the Felin Fach Griffin, located just off the A470 on the way to Builth Wells. I’ve only eaten there, but can vouch for it being one of the three or four best places to eat along the whole of the A470.
Within Brecon town centre, I suggest either the Brecon Castle Hotel (which adjoins a medieval wall of the town’s castle and is one of a small number of castles to stay in Wales) or the Clarence Inn.
Stage 2 – Brecon to Rhayader
If you’re driving this second stage straight through, you could complete it in around an hour, but there’s plenty to see on the way, particularly the scenery.
The river Wye is one of the most famous rivers in Wales, and the A470 follows its upper course from Llyswen to Llangurig, close to its source on the slopes of Plynlimon mountain. The lower section of the river Wye is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, but the scenery along much of the upper section is just as dramatic.
Head north from Brecon on the A470, passing the distinctive red-painted Felin Fach Griffin to your left. Soon afterwards the A470 heads left towards Llyswen and Builth Wells. If you miss this turn (you shouldn’t, it’s well signposted!) you’ll be on the A438 heading in the direction of Hay-on-Wye. And if you should happen to turn right, continue to the enchanting church of St Bilo in Llanfilo, which has a beautifully preserved wooden late medieval rood screen.
Diversion – Hay-on-Wye
Hay-on-Wye, the second-hand bookshop capital of the world, is ten miles up the A438. It’s a wonderfully quirky little place which still has around 15 second-hand bookstores. The town has long been the home of the Hay Literary Festival, but Hay has also become a centre for the wider arts world.
Stop by for coffee and cake and a browse in a few of the bookshops. But as my wife Faye would tell you, ‘a few minutes’ can easily become a few hours. Check out my guide to the best things to do in Hay-on-Wye for more information.
The A470 then climbs for a mile or two, offering occasional glimpses of the Black Mountains range to the right. It then descends to Llyswen, where it meets the River Wye. The Griffin Inn, on the corner to your left, is another great place for a lunch stop.
The A470 continues to the left, and about two miles after Llyswen, you reach Llangoed Hall, one of the best hotels along the A470. This gorgeous country house was once the home of Laura Ashley, the renowned Welsh fashion designer. If you love characterful old places, it’s well worth the stopover for the night. The last time I visited a few years ago, some guests asked me where the reception was. “There isn’t one,” I smiled. ”Just take a seat in the drawing room. The staff will come to you.”
Continue a few miles north to the pleasant village of Erwood (Erwyd in Welsh). Just beyond the village – and just before the right turn across the river – take the left turn and drive up the minor road for about a mile. This takes you to an open area with fantastic views of the River Wye, the A470 and surrounding countryside. It’s especially beautiful on an autumn morning if you’re lucky enough to get some good weather.
The A470 then follows the course of the River Wye into Builth Wells. On the way, there is a tiny church at Alltmawr, dedicated to St Mauritius. It’s one of the smallest, but most beautiful, churches in Wales. It’s not signposted, so is very easy to miss.
Builth Wells makes for another pleasant stop, with a beautiful stone arched bridge over the River Wye. It’s best-known as the home of the Royal Welsh Show, which is held over four days every July just across the river in Llanelwedd. Take an hour or so to wander the high street, which has several great independent shops. And drop into the superb Wyeside Arts Centre, which has a brilliant cinema.
Leave Builth, where you soon reach a modernised stretch of the road which takes a lot of twists and turns from the old route. Continue through Newbridge-on-Wye, then drive along a partly forested road until you come to Rhayader.
It takes little more than an hour to drive from Brecon to Rhayader, but it makes a great place to stay overnight if you’re doing the slow A470 tour over a few days.
Just before you reach Rhayader, Gigrin Farm (on the right) is a well-known feeding station for red kite. This amazing bird of prey was almost extinct in the wild when I first travelled this route in the early 1980s, but it’s now flourishing. The birds are fed meat in a field, and you watch from a wooden hide a short distance away.
Diversion – Elan Valley
The Elan Valley reservoirs are a short drive to the west of Rhayader. This stunning landscape at the heart of the Cambrian Mountains is home to four reservoirs and dams, built to provide the city of Birmingham with drinking water.
The drive is magnificent, passing Caban Coch, Garreg-ddu, Pen-y-Garreg and Craig Goch dams and reservoirs. There’s an additional diversion to Claerwen Reservoir, passing the picturesque Afon Claerwen waterfall (pictured) along the way.
Where To Stay In Rhayader
Rhayader is a small market town, but there are plenty of places to stay in and around the town. The Bear is one of the best of these, a 4-star bed and breakfast with a range of rooms including a family suite.
Bryn Derwen is another excellent B&B, also very close to the centre. If you plan on staying in the centre of town, the Elan Hotel is also worth considering – it’s on West Street, which leads to the scenic drive around the reservoirs.
Stage 3 – Rhayader to Dolgellau
The third stage of the journey up the A470 takes you from the wild Cambrian Mountains to the steeper slopes of southern Snowdonia. This section of the journey culminates in a drive past the eastern flank of mighty Cadair Idris, one of the most imposing Welsh mountains, finishing next to perhaps the most beautiful of all Welsh rivers, the Afon Mawddach.
The first section of the journey takes you from Rhayader to Llangurig, where the A44 branches off for the journey west to Aberystwyth and the Cambrian Coast. There is some gorgeous scenery a few miles along this section, but the reason there are so few photographs of it is that there are so few stopping places along the route!
Turn right sat the roundabout, from which it’s around seven miles to the market town of Llanidloes. The A470 now bypasses the town, continuing towards Newtown before heading west to Caersws.
Detour to Llyn Clywedog
I have travelled up and down the A470 hundreds of times, and my most frequently used detour is the B4518 from Llanidloes to Llanbrynmair. The section of the A470 is enjoyable, but you can’t beat the scenery of the B4518 ‘big dipper’ road as it skirts the shore of Llyn Clywedog, one of the most beautiful lakes in Wales.
The road continues beyond the reservoir, downhill towards Llanbrynmair. There is also the option of a further detour via the ghost village of Dylife. The views from this road are spectacular, looking north across the astounding landscape towards the Cadair Idris range.
The best stopping point is the memorial to Welsh broadcaster Wynford Vaughan Thomas. The road continues into the town of Machynlleth, from where you can rejoin the A470 at Glantwymyn.
There is also plenty to be said for sticking to the A470 route – or at least heading back along it if you take the Clywedog detour. One of the best hotels in Mid Wales – the half-timbered Maesmawr Hall Hotel – is on the outskirts of Caersws, just off the road to Newtown.
And one of the best pubs in Mid Wales is also on this stretch of the A470. The Aleppo Merchant Inn in Carno serves superb food – though I’m slightly ashamed to admit that I got to visit the city of Aleppo before I finally got to enjoy this wonderful pub. It’s named after a merchant who regularly visited the great ancient Syrian city in the 17th century, settled in the village and opened an inn named after himself!
Parts of this section of the A470 are slow going, with plenty of twists and turns to negotiate. At Commins Coch you often have to come to a standstill as the road narrows to a single track over a railway bridge. You also have to pass through several villages with a 30 miles per hour speed limit, which frustrates some less patient drivers.
At Glantwymyn, turn right and north to the steep-sided upper reaches of the Dovey Valley. It’s a short drive from here to Mallwyd and the 15th-century Brigands Inn. This is one of the best places to stay along the whole A470 route, with a fantastic interior, wooden beamed ceilings and cosy fireplaces. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back a few hundred years.
You’re now approaching possibly the most beautiful stretch of the A470. Continue to the village of Dinas Mawddwy, pulling over briefly straight after the bridge to see Pont Minllyn, a rare surviving 17th-century packhorse bridge. Resume your journey, climbing towards the glorious Bwlch yr Oerddrws mountain pass.
As you climb the mountain, you enter the Snowdonia National Park (Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri). The name means ‘Pass of the Cold Door’ and there’s a definite shift from steep hills to full-on rugged mountains here. Soon after you reach the head of the pass, the eastern flank of Cadair Idris, one of the great mountains of Wales, comes into view.
As you reach the junction with the A487 (the roads merge for a few miles), you have the option of stopping by for a meal at the excellent Cross Foxes Bar & Grill, which is also a great place to stay before the final push to the north.
It’s a three-mile drive down the hill from Cross Foxes to Dolgellau, my suggested stopover town for the night. If you’re heading this way before evening, follow the right-hand B4416 turn to the village of Brithdir, and the rare Arts and Crafts church of St Mark.
Overnight Stop – Dolgellau
Dolgellau is one of the hidden gems of Wales, and somewhere that would make a great base for exploring this part of Wales for a few days. It’s full of centuries-old stone houses, narrow back streets, some wonderful independent shops and wonderful cafes and places to eat.
Its setting below Cadair Idris is spectacular, but it’s a big hike up there – youstart pretty much at sea level, and climb almost 2,900 feet. The Mawddach is sublime – you can cycle along the Mawddach Trail, enjoy views from on high on the Precipice Walk, or stop for a riverside pint or meal at the George III in Penmaenpool.
If you have an hour or two spare, follow Cader Road in the direction of Abergwynant, turning right after five miles for the stunning Cregennen Lakes (Llynnau Cregennen), one of the most beautiful – and unexplored – places in Wales.
I also recommend a short visit to Cymer Abbey, an atmospheric late 12th-century foundation which is open between April and October.
Where To Stay In Dolgellau – And Around
I’ve worked with several hotels in the Dolgellau area, and you are absolutely spoiled for choice there. The aforementioned Cross Foxes is one of the best of these, in stunning countryside three miles up the hill from Dolgellau.
Penmaenuchaf Hall is outstanding, a superb Victorian country house on the hill above Penmaenpool with forest and mountain views.
Afon Rhaiadr Country House is another excellent choice, a 19th-century country house a few miles from the town on the A494 road to Bala.
There are also several superb hotels in Georgian townhouses around the centre of Dolgellau. These include Y Meirionnydd, Ty Seren and Bryn Mair.
Stage 4 – Dolgellau to Betws-y-Coed
As you depart Dolgellau, you have the option of taking a coastal detour from the A470, rejoining the main trunk road at Ffestiniog, or continuing along the A470 through Coed y Brenin (the King’s Forest).
Detour to Barmouth and Harlech
The A496 leads from the A470, continuing along the north bank of the Mawddach river as you approach Barmouth (Abermaw). I love this quirky seaside town. It has a huge beach, breathtaking views of the Mawddach estuary and Cadair Idris, and some wonderful steep cobbled back lanes where every step upwards also feels like you’re heading further back in time.
A ten-minute walk up the hill from the High Street leads you to Dinas Oleu, the first piece of land bequeathed to the National Trust in 1895. For more information on this wonderful seaside town, check out my guide to the best things to do in Barmouth.
The coast road heads north through the wilds of Ardudwy, a remote region of drystone-walled fields, endless sandy beaches and a few caravan parks. Continue around 15 miles to Harlech, but be prepared to have your breath taken away at Good God Corner, just before you reach the town. Here you’re greeted by one of the most amazing views in Wales, with the vast sweep of Harlech Beach and the mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia) looming beyond.
Harlech Castle is the main attraction here, one of the outstanding castles in North Wales and part of Wales’ first UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Castles of Edward I in Gwynedd. It’s an astonishing fortress, built on what was, at the time, a sea cliff. All that low sandy ground between it and the beach has been deposited there by the sea in the 740 years or so since it was built. For more information on this gorgeous part of the world, check out my guide to the best things to do in Harlech.
The final option for this detour is a visit to Portmeirion. This Italianate fantasy village was created by local architect Sir Clough Williams Ellis, and is a mixture of ‘rescued’ buildings and ones he designed himself. It was partly inspired by Portofino on the Italian Riviera, and you can stay in any of the cottages, houses or two hotels around the village.
From Portmeirion, join the A487, continuing to Maentwrog, before taking the B4391 to Llan Ffestiniog.
The A470 follows the course of the Mawddach towards its source, winding its way through Coed y Brenin. The forest has a hugely popular mountain biking centre. The road continues arrow-straight (a rarity in these parts, as you’ll have noticed!) to Llyn Trawsfynydd (Trawsfynydd Lake), with the formidable Rhinog range off to your left.
You’ll notice two large concrete blocks on the north-east corner of the lake – these are the long-decommissioned Trawsfynydd nuclear power station. In contract, on the hill above the site is Castell Tomen y Mur, an ancient Roman fort with a small Norman motte. Visiting this exposed spot is well worth half an hour of your time.
The A470 then begins its descent to the village of Llan Ffestiniog (sometimes referred to simply as ‘Ffestiniog’ on maps), before gradually climbing again towards the wall of Moelwynion mountains ahead.
As you approach this wall, it gradually becomes clear that they’re not all mountains. Some are vast mounds of slate spoil, hammered out of the quarries around the town. Welcome, dear traveller, to Blaenau Ffestiniog.
There is nowhere quite like Blaenau on Earth. A few mining towns high in the Andes have some similarities, but nothing quite prepares you for Blaenau Ffestiniog. A late friend of mine always made me smile when she called it,”Blimey”.
The workers’ terraced houses are dwarfed by the enormous heaps of spoil, and the sight hasn’t changed since I first saw this dramatic place in 1982. Llechwedd Slate Caverns, on the right as you leave the town, tells the poignant story of the thousands of workers who toiled underground to help roof the world. Since 2021, the town has been part of the Welsh Slate Landscape UNESCO World Heritage Site.
You can also experience this compelling place by whizzing along zip wires above the mountains, or even hurtling down them on a mountain bike.
The A470 soldiers on up to the Crimea Pass, and out into a whole new world. As you reach the top of the Pass, a new landscape unfurls before you – remote, empty upland country, flickers of light glancing across the ridges. And crowning it all is Moel Siabod, the dominant peak in this part of Snowdonia.
The road then descends into the Lledr valley, eventually passing below the solitary battlemented tower of Dolwyddelan Castle. This Welsh prince’s castle guards this remote valley, and it’s well worth the climb for the superb rooftop views.
You then continue down the hill, passing through Dolwyddelan village and then Pont y Pant train station before the A470 briefly road-shares with the A5 until the turn-off for Betws-y-Coed. The A470 continues north from here, on its final run down the Conwy Valley to the North Wales coast.
Where To Stay In Betws-y-Coed
Although you could just drive the last 40 minutes or so to Llandudno seafront, there is plenty more for you to see in those last 20 miles or so.
Betws is a tourist honeypot, with a huge choice of B&Bs and a few great hotels. The 19th century artists’ colony from which Betws grew was concentrated around the historic Royal Oak Hotel, right in the centre of the village of Holyhead Road. The Stables next door is usually the busiest place to eat in Betws-y-Coed, with a wide-ranging pub menu. I haven’t gone wrong there in a great many visits.
Some of the best places to stay in Betws-y-Coed are across the river from the main part of the village, on the A470. These include the 16th-century Ty Gwyn Inn, and three 5-star guest houses – Maes-y-Garth, Aberconwy House and Ty’n y Fron Country House. They are all a 5-minute walk away from the village, via the suspension footbridge next to the old church.
Stage 5 – Betws-y-Coed to Llandudno
As with stage 4 from Dolgellau the day before, you could well start the day with a diversion. Or possibly two.
Diversion 1 – Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa)
The A5 runs through Betws-y-Coed before reaching the mountainous core of Eryri, and as you’ve driven all this way it would be a shame not to see the highest of them. Stop en route at Swallow Falls (Rhaeadr Ewynnol) – the foaming mass of the Afon Llugwy in full spate is a magnificent sight. Not to mention deafening!
Continue through the long, straggling village of Capel Curig, which offers up your first glimpses of Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa). The best view is from Llynnau Mymbyr, twin lakes just beyond the Plas y Brenin Mountain Centre on the A4086. This is about a mile from the turn-off from the A5.
The A5 threads its way through its most dramatic stretch, the Ogwen Valley. With fearsome Tryfan on the left and the heights of the Carneddau range to your right, it gets better and better. You pass the lovely Llyn Ogwen lake before bearing right down Nant Ffrancon, a glacial U-shaped valley straight out of a school geography textbook.
For more information on this and other scenic drives in North Wales, take a look at my Snowdonia Road Trip article.
Returning to the A470, head four miles north until you reach the market town of Llanrwst. I can’t recommend the Tu Hwnt I’r Bont Tea Rooms enough – if you’re after a taste of ‘old world’ Wales, this is ideal for you. The house – next to the stone arched bridge over the River Conwy – is picturesque at any time of year – but most of all when the red Virginia creeper on its exterior turns red for a week or two.
Gwydir Castle is just across the river – a beautifully restored Tudor country house where you can also stay. Gwydir Uchaf Chapel, a short walk away, is a memorial chapel to the Wyn family that once owned Gwydir Castle. It looks fairly humble outside, so its ornate interior – particularly its vivid painted ceiling – is a revelation.
Back on the A470 side of the Conwy Valley, you gradually make your way through this lush landscape of fields and hedgerows, with the foothills of the Carneddau mountains glowering from high above.
A few miles before you reach the coast, take a right turn to Bodnant, one of the most beautiful gardens in Wales. May and early June are usually the best time to visit – if you don’t get to see the rhododendrons and azaleas, you’ll hopefully get to see the glorious yellow laburnum arch.
Resuming your A470 journey, you get the strongest hint yet that the end is in sight, as you catch a sight of Conwy Castle and George Stephenson’s Tubular Bridge on the other side of the river. Then the road veers away from the riverbank, taking you to a vast interchange with the A55 North Wales Expressway.
Diversion 2 – Conwy
If you’re tempted to head to Conwy from here, take the second exit – signposted Llandudno Junction and Conwy. Follow the road past Llandudno Junction station, then go straight ahead at the roundabout to Conwy.
Conwy is one of the most beautiful towns in Wales. The Castle is second to none, one of the greatest medieval castles in Europe and the world. Its eight stone towers make a forbidding landmark as you cross the river, and it’s no wonder nobody ever had the temerity to threaten it.
When visiting Conwy, make time to see the extraordinary Plas Mawr, a late 16th-century townhouse that’s one of the best-preserved from the period in the UK. And don’t miss Conwy Quay, departure point for some great boat trips and also home to the Smallest House in Great Britain.
The poor fellow that lived there was 6’3” – 1.90 metres – tall, and it’s a wonder he ever managed to get inside the place, never mind live there. Check out my article on the best things to do in Conwy for more inspiration to visit this superb medieval town.
Back across the river, there are just two miles to go before the end of your A470 odyssey. When you reach the town, you pass a retail park on your right, then cross Mostyn Street and see the limestone cliffs of the Great Orme headland on your left. After 100 metres or so along Vaughan Street, you reach the seafront and Llandudno Promenade. Suddenly the A470 is no more. You have made that epic journey the length of a country, brought to an end by a T-junction, Llandudno North Shore beach and the Irish Sea.
The Queen of Welsh Resorts awaits you. Now I think you need to find somewhere to park….
Where To Stay In Llandudno
One of the best places to stay in Llandudno is The Imperial Hotel, right at the end of the A470. For me it has always been a big part of the classic Llandudno experience, a beautifully restored traditional Victorian hotel right on the Promenade.
I haven’t stayed at St George’s Hotel, which is also on the Promenade, but have visited many times. It’s somewhere we often booked for guest writers working with Visit Wales.
And the Escape B&B is one of the best B&Bs I’ve stayed in anywhere in the UK. It’s adult only, with brilliantly designed rooms in a superbly restored townhouse on the hill between North Shore and West Shore beaches.
A470 History
The A470 is a young road through an ancient land. The North to South Wales trunk road only came into being in 1979, after a campaign throughout the 1970s to have a single road running the length of the country.
A whole new road wasn’t built – instead the A470 is an amalgamation of several different regional roads, with sections renamed to make the new single route.
I was incredibly fortunate to travel the length of this road in 1982, on my first summer holiday staying with relatives in North Wales.
A470 Road Trip – Final Thoughts
I hope that my article on the A470 has inspired you to journey along it one day.
I have been immensely privileged to have travelled up and down the A470 hundreds of times, much of it for my work with Visit Wales. Many of those journeys were in the company of a dear photographer friend, and one day we talked about what this road meant to us as Welshmen.
We said that even though the road doesn’t go near so many of the most famous sights in Wales, it’s possibly the best way to experience the country, especially for first- or second-time visitors.
As you travel along its length, you get so many tantalising glimpses of beauty, so many tastes of what there is to discover in this small but utterly magical country.
For more amazing roads in Wales, check out my accompanying article on the Best Scenic Drives in Wales.
For a huge selection of articles on Wales, check out my Wales Travel Guide page.